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The Boulder

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Description

This is the middle buttress bounded on the left by Glissade Gully and on the right by Stag Gully. Low down on the wall facing Glissade Gully are a few obvious lines. The left-leaning offwidth has been climbed at grade 22 – details have not been forthcoming but it is presumed that John Fantini made the first ascent. Peter Mills has done a route to the right of the above route somewhere (I think it's All Purpose Monkey 22) and Kim Carrigan has done a climb up one of the lines to the right also. Mike Law-Smith and Paul Daniels added a two-pitch route Golden Razor 22, which starts through a steep wall at the foot of the buttress and blasts straight up. Sorry I can't give more details, but what you ain't got you can't give. The routes I have got descriptions for are described left to right starting in Glissade Gully.

Thin ice smears sometimes come into condition on the Glissade Gully side and easier mixed routes are possible on the front and Stag side.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Ethic inherited from Blue Lake

  • No bolts - trad climbing only.
  • Blue Lake and other glacial lake catchments are of very high conservation value and impacts upon these values need to be controlled
  • The Park is currently closing and rehabilitating several non-hardened footpads within the catchment.
  • Foot pads/ tracks that are not hardened (“official”) should be not be followed and walkers/ climbers should spread out to prevent track formation and subsequent erosion
  • Upon leaving official/ hardened walks visitors should spread out and follow leave no trace principles.
  • Camping is not permitted within 30m of any water body or water course.
  • Additional alpine safety information is available here: https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/safety/alpine-safety
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Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

An alpine ramble taking the left-slanting line overlookinq Glissade Gully. Start below the broken rocks to the left of the steep smooth section.

  1. The general line is obvious, though variants can be taken. May be split into two to avoid rope drag.

FA: A. Wood, P. Aitchison, G. Still. 1962

FA: P. Aitchison, A. Wood & G. Still. 1962

FA: John Fantini

The exact location in relation to other climbs is vague, but can be found once you get to the cliff. Start at the twin thin seams (train tracks) right of a dark leaning dirty fused corner.

  1. 40m. Climb the twin thin seam-cracks to a sloping ledge.

  2. 5m. Easily up.

FA: Luke Trihey, Rob Topser, 1982

In winter an ice smear develops down the general area of Tapdance/All Purpose Monkey which can touchdown in Glissade Gully. Though the bottom ice is thin and variable, it is also climbable at about M7 mixed. The ice quickly improves and the middle and top sections can be thick enough to take even medium length screws.

Belay off good wires and/or stakes before soloing off up final short snow slope. Top rope or inspection of ice conditions is recommended

FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, Aug 2019

A pleasant long route. Start as for Warm Up.

  1. Up the short wall then left across the slab to a good ledge.

  2. Follow diagonal crack up wall then easier cracks to the top.

FA: P. Aitchison, N. Anderson. 1968

Varied and interesting climbing. Start at the short steep wall a little way up the chimney/gully.

  1. 32m. Up walls, across slab into corner. Traverse right then up onto another slab. Follow up slab and belay on a large spike in the corner.

  2. 33m. Up the crack for a few metres then left across slab into a corner and on to the top.

FA: A. Woods, P. Aitchison, G. Still. 1967

A rather obvious line. May be wet and loose. Start at the foot of the chimney.

  1. Follow the obvious fissure, best to belay somewhere along the way.

FA: P. Aitchison, A. Wood, l. Raine. 1968

Apparently not as good as it looks. Start below a ramp on the right-hand side of the gully under Chockstone Chimney.

  1. 22m. Follow the ramp to a ledge and along this to belay on The Slab.

  2. 38m. Climb the crack above the belay and continue up the easy corner for 20m then right and up easy cracks to finish.

FA: A. Wood. 1968

A good long easy route. Start at the longest point of the slab. Can be split into two or three pitches.

  1. Up slab and right around overhang and left to ledge.

  2. Above ledge, move right along flake to the slab, follow cracks to another ledge. Up corner to a ledge then left to another corner and up. Numerous variations have been done.

More of an access route than anything else. Useful as an easy descent route.

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