A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Cameron Roy
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Black Hill
40 in Crag
-
1.1.
Ambers Gully 8 in Area
- 1.1.1. Amber Boulders 8 in Boulder
-
1.2.
Death Star 14 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Rogue Squadron 5 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Vader Wall 9 in Sector
- 1.3. Cable Crag 14 in Area
- 1.4. Trackside 4 in Unknown
-
1.1.
Ambers Gully 8 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Black Hill 40 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: -34.886650, 138.719711
access issues
This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing as required by the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply.
1.1. Ambers Gully 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.865291, 138.724619
summary
A little outcrop just left of the Ambers Gully waterfall with some bouldering on a boulder and small wall behind it further down along the walking track.
description
Dave Adams & Terry Doleman put up 4 ten metre routes here (no route descriptions provided), becoming harder from L to R (13-16), on the rock to the left of the falls in December 1989. Bouldering can be found on the large block, and the small outcrop behind it, just before reaching the falls.
approach
Park in the Black Hill Conservation Park car park on Gorge Road about 3.5km past the Stradbroke Rd roundabout. Follow Main Ridge Track to the sharp left hand turn up hill. Here leave the track and follow the Ambers Gully Track to the right until the large boulder and outcrop is reached. It's then a 10 minute walk to the outcrop.
history
Dave Adams & Terry Doleman (December, 1989). Bouldering has happened on the large boulder and small outcrop behind for years.
1.1.1. Amber Boulders 8 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.865291, 138.724657
description
A large boulder situated along the walking track with some nice bouldering on it.
  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Ambers Ruin
Sit start with both hands in crack. Follow the crack and top out. Essentially a crack eliminate but climbs nicely as a distinct line | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Unnamed 2
Sit start with left hand on the good pinch down low in next to crack and right hand on the sloping arete. Compress your way up to the top and top out. | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★ The Nose
Start with your left and right hand on sidepulls. Then move into crimps, following the line up the left-hand side of the slab. | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Unnamed 4
Climb the centre of the slab. | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 5 |
★ Unnamed 5
Climb the right hand side of the slab. | V0 | 4m | |||||
   |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
Unnamed 6
Start matched on the layback edge on the overhanging arete and follow the arete straight up. | V5 | 5m | |||||
| 7 |
Unnamed 7
Sit start with left hand on edge and right hand jug. Climb slightly left and top out at it's highest point. | V0 | 2m | |||||
| 8 |
Mmm, Smooth Calves
Follows the thin crack feature straight to the large blocky side pull above. Mantle out. | V0 | 5m | |||||
1.2. Death Star 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -34.861440, 138.740642
description
A very small cliff with a handful of routes.
access issues
Park as for Cable Crag. This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing in accordance with the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply.
1.2.1. Rogue Squadron 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping
description
First small wall that you come to from the access trail containing two sport routes and two trad offerings.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Rogue Squadron
Left most route (trad) starting under roof and trending up and left toward left arete on big holds to a pumpy finale. No independent anchor. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 24 | 12m | |||
| 2 |
Squadron Righthand
Start as for Rogue Squadron but head right through bottom roof on less than ideal rock quality. Up face, then back left to finish as for Rogue Squadron. TR recommended due to poor rock in the lower half. | 24 | 12m | |||
| 3 |
★★ Trench Run
Central line of this wall. Start off slopey features to gain the big sidepull then up the weakness to mantle onto the mid-height slab, then climb the short wall above to anchor. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 23 | 12m, 3 | |||
| 4 |
★ Jabba
Boulder problem start past 1st BR (stick clip) leads to break, then 2nd BR on slab (tricky to see from the ground). Mantle slab and trend left into the finish of Trench Run (same lower off). FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 22 | 12m, 3 | |||
| 5 |
Ja Ja Binks Must Die
Right line (trad) up crack weakness. Trend left at the top to loweroff Trench anchor. | 17 | 12m | |||
1.2.2. Vader Wall 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
description
Very steep prow rising above a small bouldering cave 15m left of Rogue Squadron sector.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Darth Vader
Start on the small jug in the cave under the very overhung crack weakness. Stick clip fixed wire then launch up the weakness to gain jugs and 1st BR. Rest up then truck across the very overhung black arete passing 3 BRs to mantle onto the slab. Anchor 3m further up. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 24 | 3 | |||
| 2 |
★ Lord Vader
Climb Darth Vader but instead of exiting onto the slab at the 3rd BR, continue along overhung arete to a 4th BR and another crux. Mantle after the 4th. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 25 | 15m, 4 | |||
| 3 |
★ Emperor Palpantine
Start as for Darth Vader then at the 1st bolt of that route head left into the roof to a break, then bouldery moves direct through this past an edge lead to a jug, then into Darth Vader Extension at its last bolt. FA: 2012 | 26 | 15m | |||
| 4 |
Emperor Palpentine Direct Start
Direct start has been equipped but remains unclimbed. | |||||
| 5 |
★ Star Wars Episode 1
Boulder problem at the base of the Vader cave starting off two underclings, Pull on, then bust a move to a sloper with an edge on it, then up to the small jug (start hold of Darth Vader). | V5 | ||||
| 6 |
★ Star Wars Episode 2
Start at small jug (Darth Vader start) then head up and left to via a slot and undercling to finish on two opposing gastons. | V4 | ||||
| 7 |
★ Star Wars Box Set
Link episode 1 & 2 | V6 | ||||
| 8 |
Womp Rats
Up the L side of the slab L of the cave. Trend L up the buttress past a small sheoak. FA: Josh Magor, 2012 | 15 | 15m | |||
| 9 |
Princess Leia
Start as for Womp Rats but head up R into the short chimney formed by the block. Step R (crux) to the Darth Vader lower-off. FA: Caroline Kinnane, 2012 | 10 | 8m | |||
1.3. Cable Crag 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dirk | 12 | 20m | |||||
| 2 | Dirk DS | 19 | 20m | |||||
| 3 | Late Night | 17 | 20m | |||||
| 4 | Totally Wired | 21 | 20m | |||||
| 5 | ★★ Caber Direct | 17 | 18m | |||||
| 6 | Caber Super Direct | 22 | 18m | |||||
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 | ★ Caber Tosser | 12 | 18m | |||||
| 8 | Caper | 21 | 18m | |||||
| 9 | ★ Ode to Skweaker | 12 | 15m | |||||
| 10 | Bloodletting | 21 | 15m | |||||
| 11 | ★ Led Pensile | 19 | 15m | |||||
| 12 | Equilibrium and Entropy | 16 | 13m | |||||
| 13 | The Jagged Arete | 11 | 10m | |||||
| 14 | Yellow Peril | 18 | 15m | |||||
1.4. Trackside 4 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: -34.886652, 138.719710
description
This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing in accordance with the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Mr Forgetful
Climbs the central crack. Start just right of the big dirt mound. follow the crack up and slightly left and top out. Good protection the whole way up. FA: Ben Dickson, May 2017 | 14 | 10m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Boulevard Olympics
Climbs the wall a metre left of 'Mr forgetful'. An OK piece protects the top at half way height in the vertical fingercrack. FA: thestig, Jun 2017 | 22 R | 10m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Frehd The Clown
Starts under the big triangular block above head. Follow the line straight up. A technical sequence. FA: thestig, 2017 | 21 | ||||||
| 4 |
★ The Carlesque Way
The further most left line on the wall. FA: Carl Schneider, May 2017 | 18 | 8m | |||||
