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Summit Cliff

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Description

The climbs are laid out from North to South, with Boulder problems being found furthest North.

Access issues inherited from Mount Barker Summit

The main area on the ridgetop is council land. The gates to the car park are open from 8am to 6pm (or 8am to 8pm during daylight saving time)

Approach

From the Summit Carpark head North to the lookout (About 300m). Once you reach the lookout continue another 50m North where you will find cliffs to your left. Follow the cliff to a break (Between Jacob's Ladder and Camelot Castle) where you can safely descend to the base. Continue around to the right around the corner and you will find Shock Watch and Small Roof. Around the next corner you will find another larger roof featuring Raging Boner.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start on edges under the right hand side of overhang. Climb slightly left and finish up the arete. Located in the summit area and not little arapilies.

May or may not have been climbed in the past.

FA: 2017

Start as for Raging Boner, head right and make a big move to a great edge around the right arete. LH to small slot in the corner, top out straight up.

Start low on easy edge. Move up to crimps on slab. Head up and out on limited footers. Keep right of easy arete and large incut.

Set: Laurence Judd, 2020

Start on jug in corner right of EASY DOES IT. Straight up to ear like side pull and then navigate the wall on pockets and edges. Feet stay on face / boulder and ramp to the right are out of play.

This group of boulder problems are located 15m Left of Casio G Shock Watch Wall (Can be seen in background of topo photo) Squat Start on juggy ledge with high feet. Move left and up using large side pull. Mantle the Slab using LH positive sloper and low right crimps. Use cracks in the slab to navigate to top out right of the tree.

Set: Laurence Judd, 23 Dec 2018

FA: Laurence Judd & Harry Judd, 11 Jan 2019

Squat/ Stand Start on juggy ledge with high feet on good food holds. Head right along big horizontal ledge to the arete. Head up arete onto slab to top out next to tree.

Set: Laurence Judd, 23 Dec 2018

FA: Laurence Judd & Harry Judd, 10 Jan 2019

Sit Start under the roof on small edges. Keep feet on left wall of boulder. Make a move to the lip and continue up arete.

Follow the arete up slab.

Start 1m right of Jacobs ladder. LH on Crimper and RH on large sidepull, using small footers or smearing move up to LH Edge and head to an easy top out.

Start left of Camelot Castle on big sloper. Head right keeping about 1m off the ground under the great roof below easier breaks all the way right past SSA around the corner to a small roof. Move through this roof to the final vertical seam of the cliff and top out via this seam. Great endurance line with a few tricky moves, found to be harder going Right to Left.

Start as for Low variant but head up 4-5m and remain high traversing through the lip of The Great Roof and around second bulge at Chocolate Oreo. Continue right around corner and finish up last face of rock. A couple of spicy moves, but loads of great rests and well protected by horizontal crack.

The short crack and corner 1m L of Karl Malden's Nose.

Start up Karl Marden's Nose to the roof, then hand traverse above the lip of the roof on jugs rightwards to finish up Bristol Stool. Done as a solo so the gear could be interesting.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2 May 2015

The ragged corner to the roof. Escape L into KMN.

Wizards Sleeve. UK 5a/b 17-18. 10m. Starts low left under the main overhang and traverses across Grey Paint to finish more directly than Bristol Stool Chart Number 2 up the roof on small holds. An awkward mantelshelf gets you over the top. A really nice climb.

The arete just R of Camtastic, finishing to the L

FA: 24 May 2014

Directly up the arete just R of Own-Brand Wafer Biscuit

FA: 24 May 2014

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