Routes in Adelaide

A lovely climb with the crux in the first 2 moves. Start as for the nips are getting smaller. Up to the horizontal at about 2.5m for good cam placement. Now step left to arete and straight up. Continue up arete to an open book corner. Place good runner in the corner and step left onto arete. Continue up arete to the top.

Two hand start flake. Left foot start heel hook. Right foot start rough 20cm below. Move left to right without using any holds in line with or to the left of starting point or any of the base rock. Move down without stepping on base. Move left to right along rock face utilising large edges and medium foot holds above base. Hook right foot onto step up and utilise large edges to lever up onto rock. Do not use any holds to the right hand side of the rock face. Finish atop rock.

Start as for The Upper Floor but instead go straight up.

Start both hands on small edge. Utilise strong foot holds and edges to climb to crux. Pinch and sloper with smaller foot holds to ascend to the top of the wall. Finish atop wall.

Start both hands of edge. Ascend, following split using substantial jugs. Finish atop wall.

Start as Up The Guts. Move to crimp below cylinder. Climb right to left across the face to black line. Move up and right utilising RH foot holds and smaller jugs. Finish as UP The Guts.

Start LH in crack and RH on small edge with feet on the lowest hold. Ascend to crimp below cylinder. Undercling base of cylinder and jug head of cylinder. Pull up, utilising crimps. Finish on 1st tier above cylinder.

LH Start on small edge of water run. RH Start small pinch. Right foot on platform below RH and left foot on small hold below LH. Utilising smaller edges move right to left to large LH edge. Move up to two-hand finish.

Start as Pitah Pahkah. Move left to right, staying at the starting height, utilising small edges and crimps. Move up and two hand finish on jug to the right of the tree.

Start both hands on undercling and feet on base below. Move left to right utilising eye-level crimps and jug. Move across easy footholds to narrow foothold in the middle of the wall. Use high crimp above finish for final move. Finish with both hands in the top right hand corner of the face on shallow pinch.

Start up the hill, 2 metres to the left of the Koogacharma. Easy climbing to the first bolt then follow the line of the original.

Climb up the crack to gain the first ledge. The 3rd and 4th bolt are interchangeable and open to climb past one of them. Climb up the face and step out onto the northern facing slab. Up the slab and climb Over to the north western facing slab using the awkward flake before reaching the ring anchor.

Open Project.

Start 2m right of Hollow and Bring your biggest and best stick clip, or trust the quarry and climb up to the first U-bolt to secure some form of safety. Up the slab and follow the fingery sequence to the double bolt anchor at the top.

Up the slab the third bolt. Use the finger crack in the dihedral where needed before moving right under the hollow boulder under the roof. Traverse left on the hollow rock and move up to the chains.

An extension of ELV. Climb ELV to its anchors. Making a move up and left to a good hold then traverse left through the corner and onto the blocky slab. Follow the lines of bolts to the anchors. Climbs better than it looks!

The climb traverses through some questionable but solid large blocks so use caution when in this area. Belayer to belay from RHS of ELV.

Firestarter start into Head Like a Hole

Starting on the low right jug and the flat rail. Move directly right and up through a crimp, continuing to the lip. Move right around the arete to mantle.

KMB to the roof and then follow the bolts to olympis finish rings

KMB to the roof and then follow the bolts to the Ring bolt chains

Start at for Kiss my Brain and then follow the easier line up to Olympis ring bolts.

Jump Start to the lip of Whealy Easy's mantle and then downclimb it left to the cave, then continue left into 'Iron Cave Traverse' and finish for that.

Stand Start on the final jug of 'Iron Cave Traverse' and traverse right around the whole cave to meet 'Whealy Easy' and finish for that.

Sit Start as for Iron Monger but once you are up under the roof traverse left around the inside of the cave to the outer side where you will find a big victory jug to finish.

Sit Start on sloping edges of Iron Monger, move up and right via pinches and side pulls to the short wall right of the cave and mantle out.

As the lower cave has a rock floor all the following lines have been established/completed with feet above this rock floor.

Sit Start in the large hole in the centre of the cave with hands on decent edges above the opening. Head straight up to good jug then traverse right and finish up 'Whealy Easy'

Start on the jug under the overhang. Make a move up and then traverse right on low edges and continue as per Pogger.

Stand start with left hand as per Pogger, but right hand in the undercling on the face. Finish climb as per Pogger

Start in jug under the overhang. Move left along the bottom of the boulder then up and out via the crack.

Standing start on left hand side of smooth slab wall. Utilise small footholds to move half a meter towards the centre of the wall and continue upwards to top out.

As contrived as its name! Start up 'Peregrine RHV', and at the first bolt traverse left below the crux to the first bolt of 'Peregrine'. Finish up 'Brotherhood of the Black Chicken'.

Start on good side-pull edges and make a big move to the lip. Traverse slightly up and mantle.

Sit Start on on big sloping edge, move out right to a good edge under arete via a small intermediate. Lock up to a good edge just below the lip and right to good jugs to top out just right of arete. Crux is not dabbing, harder if you are taller.

Open project(s). Sit start as for Portside and traverse right into Jam Donut, or left into Sailor's Delight. Another longer option would be a full boulder traverse starting got Sailor's Delight. Will be quite a challenge.

Sit Start on shallow jug, move up to slopers on the lip and good sidepull out right in the break in the rock to top out.

Sit Start on slopers. Move up to pinches and slopers on the lip and top out.

Squat start on good holds in the breakline, move up to the lip via a decent pinch and top out.

Sit Start on good jug on the lip. Make a big move up to the upper ledge and mantle.

Start on rail crimp on right hand side of cave, move into first jug on inside of arete. Move through middle of roof on sharp holds (pinch or crimp), make big Gaston move with Rh to large sloper jug. Match and finish on the jug above the start of upper floor.

Takes the wall between Close Your Eyes and Clea. Cross the latter and finish airily up the steepening between Clea and Clea Direct. Side-runners can be arranged in Clea's lower crack if required.

Starts seated right of Osaki Dolphin, traverse under Scartrek over the slime to the Wormhole search via pocket, edges and underclings then end on Diplomacy jug!

Stand start the right hand arete on a good left-hand crimp and low right hand side pull on the arete. Traverse left and join 'Riddy Left' and finish as for that. A little more pumpy than Riddy Left.

As for Black Hole Sun but takes the more direct Night Moves exit to finish.

Climb all of Black Hole, then back out via Nightmoves finish. 28-30 move marathon.

Crouch start on the sidepull and small edges below the lip. Make a move out to the edge below the lip, continue to mantle out.

Sit start as per 'Can't dance, but I can do the Twist', traverse lip to the right, exiting as per 'Hop on Up'.

Sit start on a left edge with right hand in a dish. Move up and right to small edge and undercling. Slab to top out

Established in wet conditions. Name changed due to consensus. Crux just after 2nd bolt leading to 3rd then great 3D corner climbing to anchor. To clean: Best have someone follow via TR. Start often wet.

The unbolted line in between Little Rundle St and Trundle Down Rundle. Veer left and then thin cruxy moves to move right into Trundle just before Little Rundle St does.

The shorter, easier and original version of Eddie and Dudley’s Excellent Adventure. Start up Dudley in the Gym, then break right under the Tim dyno to pull the crux moves and join Rain on the Parade. Milk the rest after the traverse then finish as for Rain to the top (2nd) chains.

The obvious continuation of Lust that will have you burning for days. As for Lust to its final bolt then punch left to the hanging arete and blast up the outrageously steep headwall, don't drop the mantle!

A link up of the start line of bolts of born under punches, finishing for the last 4 bolts of Crosseyed and Painless on the arete. This makes for another 20 sport route at Snakelands.

Mega line straight up the highest and steepest part of Red Cliff. Climb Trade Embargo to its anchor, then move slightly right and up into the roof for a good kneebar rest. Blast out directly through the roof onto the headwall and head up on desperate sidepulls into the Marlboro kneebar and finish as for that route. Credit to Redanon for bolting and cleaning the route.

Located on the small boulder 2m right of the main boulder, a good warm up. Sit Start in gap under small roof. Move up to lip and mantle before topping out easier upper section. Chad Step Out.

Straight up the small wall L of the Dreadlocks crack.

Start R of Solitary and follow bolts to join that route. Stay R of the top corner.

Line between Moon Shadow and Gambling.

Links Winfield into Camels Don't Sweat

Links Winfield into Emphysema

Climb Winfield Blue, and instead of going left into Camel Filter, finish up Marlboro Red. You will most likely be too pumped to clip the first Marlboro draw after the Winfield section, so it is recommended to skip it!

Climb up into the brain and head left to two small crimps then reach for an under cling in the roof to rest. Move left around the arete and the 2nd roof, RH side crimp on up high and LH gaston to get a high right foot to step up to a jug and smooth reachy climbing to the top.

A slightly easier variant to Baccarat King. Clip the first Baccarat King roof bolt and then traverse left via a bouldery sequence on underclings until to get to the nearest Marlboro Red footer. Then straight up from there into the Marlboro kneebar and finish for that route. The second roof bolt can be clipped from the good kneebar (if you have long arms), or the sharp blade half way along the traverse. The sharp blade looks sound, but it is worth your belayer being vigilant in case it breaks!

An obvious natural weakness that starts underneath 'The Hat' and traverses up and left underneath 'Battery Acid' and finishes as per 'Mic Drop'. Bring plenty of cams, and be aware of rope drag.

Sit Start as for 'CTHF' once you make the first moves to good sidepull head right to good crimp rail. Continue right through small holds then past the main weakness to some small holds near the lip and top out on the last highpoint of the boulder 1m right of frog attack.

Stand Start just left of the arete on the slab wall. RH on decent holds on arete and LH on small holds on slab. Head straight up slap to top out.

The ultimate Graffiti Wall link up traverse! Climb "ELV Extension" into "Footswitch" into "Beg for Mercy".

Climb 'Trade Embargo' to its 5th BR (extend draw) then break left into the traverse of Silk Rd, (BR optional but skipped on FA). From the blocky undercling of this, clip high bolt (extend draw) and launch up the groove. At the next BR (shared with Marlboro Red), head left and finish via Camel Filter.

First 3 bolts of 'Blades of Glory' then break R on the obvious shield feature, plug some cams in the roof, then move strenuously through the bulge placing your last bit of gear. Head right to the arete and climb further than you want to above your gear before clipping the second last bolt on Blades and finishing as per that route.

Take 'Black Market Art' into 'One Hold One Quest'.

Climb "Trade Embargo" to its 5th bolt, then traverse right and up to a high crimp before making a big move across the gap to the good break under the roof of "The Art of Seeing", then finish as for that route. Extend 5th, 6th, and 7th runner.

Takes the line between Trade Route and Art of Seeing to the anchor under the roof.

[NOT CLIMBABLE AT PRESENT]. Start as for Trade Embargo, but instead of climbing right of its bolts, clip the 2nd (now moved) and then launch left into the jug before Trade's crux and finish via this route. Due to be re-equipped.

Sit start matched on the big hold. Traverse left and finish when you pass the crack. Can Also be climbed in reverse.

Start as for Firestarter, then traverse into Head Like a Hole reversing the Night Moves exit from the cave and at the knee bar rest change direction by hopping onto Black Hole Sun and finishing as per that.

Start as for Fire play. Before finishing Fire play- reverse the exit sequence of Nightmoves, gain the knee bar rest, then finish as for Black hole.

Pull onto the bucket above Lowbows Crimp on the lip. Campus right staying as low as possible. Campus right into - you know it ain’t right and finish for that. Longer but skips the other problems crux.

Around the corner from 'Easy Does It'. Start up an easy slab to a small roof, head up and over this to an easier top section

Stand Start with very good RH sidepull on arete and low LH sloper crimp on face. Move up to big jug and out left to high gaston and up to top out over the middle of the face.

Bouldery variation to the start of Hard Stone City following the two new ring bolts.

Sit Start in the centre of the cave on sloping/flat edges. Make a big move into a good crimp rail in the roof, continue through the roof on good holds to underclings at the lip, to finish in the big hole above the lip.

Sit Start on the right arete as for 'Main Arete'. Head up that line until you hit the arete, then head left along the lip until you meet the 'Upper Floor'. Work you way into the break line and finish as for 'Upper Floor'

Sit Start on good edge and sidepull. Head straight up to big break, head right and up the arete to find some good slopers, or head straight up the face for some harder crimping, the choice is yours.

Sit Start on high LH crimp and low RH sloper sidepull. Head straight up on good holds to the lip, then over the bulge on good sloping edge.

Climb 'Iron Monger' but keep traversing left along the lip and mantle the left hand side of the cave.

Sit starts matched on the right hand side of the lower right cave. Traverse the lip and top out in the middle of the cave. Mantle.

Sit start the main arete. Move to the next sloper hold of this problem then move left to the side-pull in the centre of the roof. From here make a big move to the gaston in the middle of the roof arete and mantle. Either top out or finish on the headwall.

Sit start as for Upper Floor. Follow the same line left but only using the lower break. Finish matched on good juggy blocks at the end or top out. Some bum scraping action.

Sit start as for upper floor but head right along lip of cave to meet the right arete and top out via the arete.

Sit Start on good edges with feet on back wall. Head up arete on good jugs to a trickier top out.

This route begins quite high on the corner of the boulder nearest the end of 'Moonrise (use the rock to get to the start of the climb). The route is a traverse from this corner of the boulder along the side (ensuring to stay off the easier features such as the top of the boulder), around the corner and up on the opposing side to the start with a final big move to top out. This route feels much longer than it is due to much of it with no rest and significant portions of relatively technical climbing but some sections at the end evolving simply endurance and strength. None of this climb is particularly difficult but when completed together with this Beta makes for some interesting movements and tiering climbing. V4 is an estimate, however some movements may be height discriminatory.

The direct start to Scotch Missed's arete, via a tiny corner. SM's bolt was clipped on the FLA.

Nightmoves, finishing up Burning Down the House.

Two move sit start to Fireplay's one move sit start ha ha. Start as for Burning Down the House and traverse horizontally left into Fireplay's start. Finish as for that. Now easier with new intermediates thrown in.

Project- linking Kid Indestructible sit to it's underlings then under the roof into Madball Stand. All the moves go, just needs someone strong enough to link them!

Historical record. Start as for The Transformer (matched), reach RH to side pull of The Pinch and dyno LH for the top. Harder than Swing Thing.

Death Trap Direct Finish. Escape from the trap then try and swim to the surface above. Possibly hard for the grade.

Cocktoe extension to end jug of Tao, then reverse climb into Inflatable Bulge and finish on top of bulge via some chimney moves.

The obvious sit start to 'The Kids Are Restless'. Start as for 'Black Hole' just inside the cave on the side-pulls. Move left to the arete and climb 'The Kids Are Restless' to the top. Finishes once established on the face. Jump down.

Arete and wall L of the Start corner. Okay protection.

Take Phlegm Cycle into all of Scarred for Life. About 38 moves.