Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dry Creek Bee Sting Wall | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Labourer
Sit start with hands on slopers. Head slightly right through slopers and mantle out. FA: Karsten, 27 Mar 2016 | 2m | |||
23 | Drill Scar | ||||
V3 | ★ Sun Dried Gecko
A popular traverse. Starting either on the left or right hand side of the wall traverse the wall until the end. | ||||
Dry Creek Sorry Andrea Wall | |||||
V4 | ★★ NSA
Stand start using the footer of Shark or the small undercling next to it and the LH in the undercling of 'NS'. Pull on with a R foot smear and L foot in the NS edge and top out. FA: Redanon | ||||
V4 | ★ Swimming Through a Shark Attack
Direct to 'Shark'. Gain crystal slot with LH, match, then dyno for top with RH (edge) and top out. Learning Curve is off. FA: Redanon | ||||
V4 | ★ Lunge
Sit start with right hand in prominent side pull. Launch to high vertical side pulls and top out. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Learning Curve
Sit start 'Sorry Andrea' crack and follow the curving sloping ledge right and top out. | 4m | |||
23 | Bird Cage
3m right of Creeks Roof directly up the arête. Finish at chains on right. | 12m | |||
V4 | Slide Off
2m right of Spank Me. Up through diamond like feature and top out. | 5m | |||
V3 | The Gaston
Start a couple of metres right of 'Slide Off'. Head up thin vertical seam and top out. Very reachy! | 5m | |||
V3 | Pretty in Pink
Start holds of Pink Face then dyno to the grey jug line halfway up that problem. Note the Pink Face starting jug has since broken - still doable from a lower hold, but likely more difficult FA: Redanon | ||||
V4 | ★ Tulipan
Start on big jug and make the first few moves of 'Honga' then head up to left hand gaston and bad right hand side pull to top out. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Rosa Left
Sit start with left hand on small chip and right hand on side pull. Veer slightly left then up. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Rosa Right
Sit start with left hand on small chip and right hand on side pull. Veer slightly right and up. | 3m | |||
Black Hill Ambers Gully Amber Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ Ambers Ruin
Sit start with both hands in crack. Follow the crack and top out. Essentially a crack eliminate but climbs nicely as a distinct line | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Unnamed 2
Sit start with left hand on the good pinch down low in next to crack and right hand on the sloping arete. Compress your way up to the top and top out. | 3m | |||
Black Hill Death Star Rogue Squadron | |||||
23 | ★★ Trench Run
Central line of this wall. Start off slopey features to gain the big sidepull then up the weakness to mantle onto the mid-height slab, then climb the short wall above to anchor. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 12m, 3 | |||
Black Hill Death Star Vader Wall | |||||
V4 | ★ Star Wars Episode 2
Start at small jug (Darth Vader start) then head up and left to via a slot and undercling to finish on two opposing gastons. | ||||
Morialta The Lost Walls | |||||
23 | ★★ Witch Hunt
Follow the line of bolts up the middle of the black wall left of the loose blocky corner. A technical mid section! | 15m, 5 | |||
Morialta Thorn Buttress | |||||
23 | Breathless
| ||||
23 | ★★ Japetus
The original route. Now superseded by the direct finish. Start: Takes the very overhanging arete from its base up to the 'hole', then tacts right around the steep arete and up to the big break via a good undercling. This original line then stepped left and finished up the 'Terra Incognita' face. FA: Kim Carrigan (all on trad), 1979 | ||||
23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish
Originally established as a bold traditional outing by Kim Carrigan. Now retro-bolted with general consensus due to it residing in a largely sport-route populated area. Not surprisingly, it has now become one of the most travelled lines for its grade at 'Morialta'. Makes for a far better outing than the original. Once at the big break, climb straight up the continuation of the arete largely on its right border to finish at a chain. FA: Kim Carrigan (all on trad), 1981 | ||||
23 | ★★ Japetus-Stench Connection
A more powerful version of 'Japetus'. Once at the large break, cut right up the rampline of 'Stench' and finish at that routes chain. Sustained. FA: Stuart Williams & Robert Knott, 1995 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Japetus Right Hand
FA: Finish up black streak right of last bolt | ||||
Morialta Far Crag | |||||
23 | ★★ Pizazz
The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face. Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper. | 21m, 4 | |||
V4 | ★ Far Crag Eliminate Traverse
| ||||
23 | ★★ Eternal Damnation
| 18m | |||
23 X | ★★ Bung Direct
The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free. FA: Richard Horn & Stuart Fishwick (A3), 1968 FFA: Most likely Mike Law-Smith, 1984 | 13m | |||
23 | ★ Illequipt Left Side
The black streak L of Illequipt, using that route for protection only. | 14m | |||
Morialta The Billiard Table | |||||
23 | ★★ Potluck DF
| ||||
23 | Paterson's Curse
| 18m | |||
Morialta The Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Gorilla My Nightmare
Longest route on the wall. Actually starts as for 'Gorilla My Dreams Original Direct Start' and takes a long diagonal up this then right across the now more popular bolted DS. Where that route breaks left to finish up the crack, keep trending right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings through a very bouldery finish exiting about 2-3m right of the other lines. Watch your back at the top. FA: Steve Kelly, 2000 | 18m | |||
Morialta Milestone Buttress | |||||
23 | Cheap Drills
| 12m | |||
Morialta Closed Giant's Cave | |||||
V3 | Sith Lord
| ||||
V3 | ★ Far Right Roof
| ||||
V4 | ★ The Degoba System
| ||||
Norton Summit The Cave | |||||
23 | Uptown Eugene RHV
| 20m | |||
23 | ★ Little Rundle Street
The line 2m left of 'Trundle down rundle' - 5 bolts FFA: Adam Gower, 2012 | 20m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★★ Anzac Highway Amble
Up 4 bolts Lt of Grurper direct. Then traverse up and Lt past 2 more bolts to chains. DBB FA: Tony Barker, 2000 | 25m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Evolution of a Wine Glass
Crossroads then diagonally right into KPDM then traverse the lip of the small roof to join Peregrine at its anchor. | ||||
23 | ★ Peregrine Pitch Two
Bear up R, then through a roof and up the wall to a DBB. The original Peregrine 17M5 had 5 pitches but climbing above the 2nd pitch is off limits. FA: Stuart Fishwick, Richard Horn & Doug McLean, 1970 FFA: Kim Carrigan, Jon Chester & Greg Moore, 1979 | 14m | |||
23 | ★ Brotherhood of the Black Chicken
An eliminate! Takes a contrived lefthand version of 'Peregrine' past an additional fixed hanger. Finish at the loweroff of PRHV. | 7m | |||
23 | ★ Peri Peri Chicken
As contrived as its name! Start up 'Peregrine RHV', and at the first bolt traverse left below the crux to the first bolt of 'Peregrine'. Finish up 'Brotherhood of the Black Chicken'. FA: Sundance Bilson-Thompson, 13 Dec | 9m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Peregrine RHV
The most fallen off crux move at the Summit. Takes the easy juggy start below the 1st ring bolt to a big move for a well-chalked crimp/slope - and a reach out left to a jug. Finish up on the slab. | 9m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Eddie-Peregrine
Been done ages ago but not recorded on this site. Up Eddie until it reaches out left within a move of Peregrine then finish up that route. | ||||
23 | ★ Endive
| ||||
Norton Summit The Cave Cave Bouldering | |||||
V4 | ★ The Thing
| ||||
V4 | ★★★ Pinch Two Eliminate
| ||||
V4 | The Big Dyno
| ||||
V3 | Crystal Undercling
| ||||
V3 | The Iron Cross
| ||||
V3 | ★ Peregrine LH Footless
Footless to the 2nd bolt | ||||
V3 | Peregrine Circuit
Peregrine RHV to after crux then downclimb Peregrine LHV and back to start. Slightly harder in reverse. | ||||
Norton Summit The Hole | |||||
V3 | ★ Match Maker
Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish. | 2m | |||
V4 | Swing Thing LH
Dyno Problem from the starting hold of TC, to jug to the R. | 2m | |||
V4 | Swing Thing RH
Start on lower slopers just R of the jug, dyno to jug. | 2m | |||
V4 | Pinch Punch
| 3m | |||
Norton Summit The Bachelor Pad | |||||
23 | Bachelor Blend
Start up "Fat Neck" to the first bolt, continue out through the roof. FA: Simon Wilson & Stuart Williams, 1995 | 14m, 3 | |||
V3 | ★ The Fish
Same start as Fat Neck. Head slightly left and up into underclings, then follow jugs (and the bolts), jumping off when you get scared. The high chalked jug is the generally accepted finishing hold. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Fat Neck to the Bone
Same start as Fat Neck. Head R and up into underclings and side-pulls. Then continue R past the bolt via crux moves using a crimp rail to reach the finish jug of The Bone. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Catch Mahi
Same start as Fat Neck, but directly right into large undercling, then to LH sloper and better RH sloper holds. Up and left through more underclings/sidepulls to good, round jug hold up under big roof. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Faith
Crouching start under KMWISF going LH into undercling, RH into gaston press with thumb catch, then ‘faith move’ to LH nubbin crimp of KMWISF (employ a good spotter). R to big scoop jug, then dyno for big jug under roof. | 3m | |||
V4 | Jacques the Potato
Sit-start with underclings as for Hot Chocolate. Paste your feet on and crank to the pointy jug with your left, match and then more easily up to jugs on traverse line. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Chocolate Aftertaste (high traverse)
Traverse high break from large chalked horizontal jug to a point where you can drop down via a good pocket/jug to the starting hold of Chinese Nuggets (monster bucket midway across). Continue though to jug at the end of the traverse line, then up to match on big sloper. FA: Andy Beckworth | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Chinese Nuggets (Campus)
"Chinese Nuggets" without feet. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Chocolate
One of the original problems from 96. Start with LH on the SGF lip hold and a polished gaston jug right of it. Bust a move (LH) to the tufa pinch on Aftertaste Low traverse then hit the jug line of the upper traverse. FA: Andy Beckworth FA: 1996 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ The Ballroom Slap
Stand start holding the pinch of Aftertaste Low Traverse and the finish jug of SGF. Dyno RH to a sloping jug in the top break. FA: Steve Kelly | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Shout
The stand start variant to Twist and Shout, starts on large underclings followed by 3 big moves, finishing on a sloper. Please be mindful of the holds you are standing on as they are the handholds for the sit start! | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Benelli's Extension stand start
Start on sloper and RH sloper/crimp at the end of the Benelli’s traverse (just under the underclings). Left foot on lip, then up into the good underclings. Out to the sharp jug, then cross into the good finish hold of Chocolate and finish matched on the big sloper. For V5 start with feet on ledge. Please be mindful of your feet as you will be standing on the handholds of the sitstart and the holds are starting to get polished. | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Sharik Dyno
Starts on the finish hold of Chocolate Aftertaste traverse (jug) – then huge dyno to obvious break. How many mats have you got? FA: Sharik Walker | 3m | |||
V3 | Snowball
Starts at far right-hand end of cliff line on left side of scoop/shallow cave (questionable rock) finish up slopers on right. | 4m | |||
Slapes Gully | |||||
23 | ★ Slapes and Shrieks | 14m | |||
Cleland Elephant Rock | |||||
23 | The Desperado
| 10m | |||
Cleland Bandicoot Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Golden Boy
Bolted line few metres left of 'Echidna Believe It', starting up wall/arête and finishing on DBB FA: Mark Witham & Chris Oerman, Mar 2015 | 14m, 5 | |||
Glen Osmond Wheal Watkins Mine | |||||
V3 | ★ The Upper Floor
Sit start on left hand side of upper cave on the big ledge. Traverse left and out and follow the Layered edges. Finish on good juggy holds or top out on the left hand side. FA: thestig | 10m | |||
V4 | ★★ Line 2
Sit start as for upper floor but head right along lip of cave to meet the right arete and top out via the arete. FA: Simon Harris | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ Wish You Were Here
Sit start the main arete. Move to the next sloper hold of this problem then move left to the side-pull in the centre of the roof. From here make a big move to the gaston in the middle of the roof arete and mantle. Either top out or finish on the headwall. FA: unknown | 3m | |||
V4/5 | ★★ Wheal of Time
Sit Start on the right arete as for 'Main Arete'. Head up that line until you hit the arete, then head left along the lip until you meet the 'Upper Floor'. Work you way into the break line and finish as for 'Upper Floor' FA: Laurence Judd, Sep 2022 | 15m | |||
V2/3 | ★ Jump & Run
Jump Start to the lip of Whealy Easy's mantle and then downclimb it left to the cave, then continue left into 'Iron Cave Traverse' and finish for that. | 8m | |||
The Big Green Frog | |||||
V3 | ★★ You gotta Rock, You gotta Gym
Sit Start as for 'CTHF' once you make the first moves to good sidepull head right to good crimp rail. Continue right through small holds then past the main weakness to some small holds near the lip and top out on the last highpoint of the boulder 1m right of frog attack. FA: Laurence Judd, Mar 2023 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Left Arete
Sit start under the overhang on the RH side of boulder. Start matched on the large jug. Move to a good edge then make a big move to a good hold on the arete. From there follow the arete to the top. | 3m | |||
V3 | Pogger Stand
Stand start with left hand as per Pogger, but right hand in the undercling on the face. Finish climb as per Pogger FA: Nathan Thomas | ||||
V4 | ★ Frogger
Sit start on LH Sloper and RH side-pull. Make a big RH move to a better side-pull then work your way up to a good sloper in the middle of the slab. From here easily mantle the slab. A technical slabby mantle. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Frog Face
Stand Start on left hand edge below lip and right on a good edge/pinch on lip. Head directly up to a spicy mantle. FA: Laurence Judd | 3m | |||
V4 | Riddy Left
A R to L traverse of the backside of the boulder. Sit start as for Riddy Up, Move RH to the wedged looking sloper then move left to a sloper on the top. From here traverse left on slopers and good holds until you can comfortably mantle the top on the L. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Riddy Up
Sit start LH on the wide pinch and RH on juggy edge, move up to large blocky hold under the overhang. Move right hand to the wedged looking sloper then left to a sloper on the top which is matched. From work your way up through more slopes until a good hold on the summit is reached. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Urban Climb
Stand start the right hand arete on a good left-hand crimp and low right hand side pull on the arete. Traverse left and join 'Riddy Left' and finish as for that. A little more pumpy than Riddy Left. FA: pamelalansbury, 11 Nov | ||||
V4 | Quantam Leap
Starting on the low right jug and the flat rail. Move directly right and up through a crimp, continuing to the lip. Move right around the arete to mantle. FA: Dan Berry | ||||
Mitcham Quarries Car Crash Quarry Sector 1 - Left | |||||
23 | ★★ Plight of the Quarryman
I pledge a legion to the life of the Quarryman. Do this route and you'll be a true Car Crash Quarryman! A left to right traverse of the entire quarry. The description is described with the pitches I did but the piteches can be done however you choose to do them. Gear is mixed. Pitch 1. Start just left of 'Old School Face Slap' and traverse the underside of the overhang to the end of the big roof of Covid22. Scramble across the slab to a stance in the corner at half way height. Clip 'Fading Light's' third bolt and climb across this, around the arete. Anchor into 'Smearing on Mount McKinley's' third bolt. Pitch 2. Climb across 'Technicolour Sunfish' keeping in in line with the third bolt. Climb through the 'Fear' crack, around the corner and above the Bee Hive (try not to get stung by any bees!) and head towards the chains of 'Stepping into the Unknown'. Pitch 3. From here keep heading right through the high vertical cracks and around the arete. Join 'Hard Stone City' at it's horizontal sloping ledge. Downclimb this route slightly and head towards the chains of 'Rainbow Wall. Pitch 4. Climb through 'Running To A Standstill' keeping at it's third bolt and into 'No Mans Land' slab. Keep going through the vertical crack of 'Naturalist' and into Exodus keeping at half way height of this line. Pitch 5. Climb around the arete and into the centre of 'Sexy Love Slots' slab. Keep going at half way height until you reach the big semi detached block of 'Dont Touch Me There'. Climb under and around this, around the arete into the vertical Seam of 'Fisting A Shark' to a stance on this climbs big roof crack block. Pitch 6. From Here downclimb 'Felch Me Directs' crack and join 'Felch Me' at it's second bolt. Climb this route into the V corner, across 'OCD' keeping just under the overlap and through the Chossy corner of 'Choss Stone City'. Pitch 7. Climb around the slight arete, keeping in line with 'Taste The Pains' third bolt. Climb through this line and under the big roof of 'Disposable Garbage'. Pay extra caution to the blocks under here as they are loose. Climb around the corner and head for 'ELV's' chains. Pitch 8. From here rest because the next pitch is the crux pitch. Downclimb the staircase and head through the V hold of 'Footloose', and climb 'Beg For Mercy' to the very end! FA: pamelalansbury, 25 Jul 2020 | 100m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Old School Face Slap
The often looked at but overlooked section of rock on the left hand side of the quarry to the left of Urban Decay. Starts on the left hand side of the overhang in the corner. Climb the corner to a good stance under the overhang. Head out and up the face to the chains. Mixed. FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 2017 | 15m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Covid 22 more like 24
The line that goes through the V shaped small roof. Start under the V. Climb the face on good holds to the roof. Make some bouldery moves coming out of the roof and mantle the slab. Easy slab climbing to the chains. FA: Ben White, 14 Mar 2020 | 12m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Smearing on Mt McKinley
climbs the arête on smears to the over sized anchors. A technical piece. FA: Hamish Meffin, 1991 | 10m, 3 | |||
Mitcham Quarries Car Crash Quarry Sector 3 - Right | |||||
23 | ★ Bad Taste | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Taste the Pain
Fresh bolts will hopefully breath life back into this fantastic little gem! Starts a couple of meters left of the main wall and to the right of Felch Me. Head up following the bolts to the overhang. Once over the overhang use the slab and the corner to reach the chains. Old chains are still there for prosperity. | 14m, 5 | |||
Mitcham Quarries Car Crash Quarry Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall | |||||
V4 | ★ The Nigel Rees Traverse
Left to right traverse starting on huge jug in left hand corner (left of ELV) and taking a low level traverse all the way across the wall past Mercy Street finishing in less than ideal rock approx 5m right of this. FA: 2011 | 20m | |||
V4 | ★ Traverse Right And Dyno / TRAD
Stand start on the big start hold of the Negal Rees Traverse, follow it right until you meet the start of ELV. Put your skates on and fire up ELV right for a dynamic finish matched on the jug of dyno. Down climb right via staircase. | 6m | |||
V4 | ★ Violet
Sit start left of ELV with RH undercling and LH slopey sidepull. Pull on and go LH to small edge, then bypass finger slot with RH and instead go to higher sidepull. LH sidepull, then RH dynamic into the slot of ELV Lefthand. LH to jug. 5 moves. | ||||
23 | ★★ The Electric Gonads Street
The ultimate Graffiti Wall link up traverse! Climb "ELV Extension" into "Footswitch" into "Beg for Mercy". FA: Ross Paynter, 27 Feb 2023 | 26m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ ELV Extension
Stand start on the big jug of Nigel's Traverse climb for the traverse right until the big flat edge of ELV and then finish for ELV. | 10m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Beg For Mercy
Originally established at 24 via the RO start (the start of Merciless), but a better route starting up PO making it a grade easier. Climb the first two BR's of Percetive Orators then head right across the good jug on AGW and clip the bolt out right on Elephantiasis. Span right to a positive sidepull then keep traversing right into Gonads RHV. Climb the last two BR's of this route and finish at the chain of Mercy Street. FA: Justin Taylor; Mick Wells; Bill O'Connor | 10m, 6 |