Routes in Adelaide for selected grade

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Showing all 54 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Dry Creek Bee Sting Wall
28 Broken Hopes Sport 9m
Dry Creek Sorry Andrea Wall
27 Spastic Face

Up left hand side of face 2m to the right of Sorry Andrea.

Sport 12m
27 Camera Man

Slightly right of Spastic face. Follows bolts in centre of wall to chains.

Sport 14m
Morialta Thorn Buttress
V7 Repetitive Traverse
28 Olympus

Now superseded by 'Following A Feltch'. The original boulder problem start. 1st bolt is for belayers benefit. Stick clip 2nd, then boulder up and right to a small jug under roof, then span right to gain a sidepull and move into Kiss My Brain. Continue over the roof and finish directly up easy headwall.

FA: Stuart Williams, 1990

Sport 20m, 6
28 Kiss My Brain Radford Start

Climb Fred Radford start through roof then finish as for Kiss My Brain.

FA: Trent Searcy, 2016

27 Japetus Extension

A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23.

Trad 30m
Morialta Far Crag
28 Locust Abortion Technician

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

FA: Simon Wilson, 1998

Mixed trad 20m, 1
Morialta The Boulder Bridge
27 Grurper's Skateboard

Starts up Geronimo's Cadillac as far as the second bolt then goes up and a little left from there: a couple of fine vertical crimps off to the left and then straight over the bulge to grab a quartz knob, swings up and there is a nice sequence of dynamic moves on the lip of the bulge reminiscent of a skateboarding move.

From the skateboard move the route continues straight up (small crystal finger pocket) and a tricky sequence at the top, sustained until the last move. The line avoids all the holds on Muesli and Extra G.

FA: Roger DuBois & John Nitschke, 2005

Sport 3
Norton Summit The Cave
27 Crossroads Direct Finish

Not particularly popular and somewhat contrived. Still worth it, particularly if you have route fitness (crux at the top). Follows Crossroads to the roof, then breaks right past underclings to gain the thin letterbox slot in the hanging headwall. Choose a sequence (dynamic or static option) then finish as for North Terrace Stroll. Extended draws for both headwall bolts are mandatory.

FA: Craig Ingram, 2006

Sport 20m
27 Strolling

Once considered to be 'the 29 project' - that was until Mick waltzed up it during his Summit love affair - grading it 7b+ (26) - at a time when he was doing 28's in two or three tries. Takes The Stroll to the roof, then traverses left into large underclings to gain the Crossroads RHV crux, and finishes as for that. Previously unrecorded. Could be 28.

FA: Mick Wells, 7 Feb 2013

27 Evolution of an Hourglass

Start up Crossroads, go into The Stroll at its rest point, then prior to main (top) roof - traverse right into KPDM. Finish as for this.

FA: JayT, 2006

Sport 23m

Takes the right-hand major roof weakness. Start as for NTS and follow it to the blue 'biner. Keep on track heading left but then kick back right through the overlap to the lip jug. Make a hard slab move to reach the break, then blast straight through the main roof via the obvious line (fixed 'biner). Back jump from the last bolt to clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000

FA: Stuart Willams, 2000

Sport 20m
28 Pushin' Into Payneham

Links Itchy Fingered into Payneham

FA: Justin Taylor, 2006

Sport 25m
27 Lost Property

KPDM Direct, slightly harder than KP, but easier than IP! Takes North Terrace Stroll to the fixed biner (2nd bolt) then fires directly up through the post-crux moves of Intellectual Property and rejoins KPDM at it's 3rd bolt. Consistent!

FFA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 2018

28 Intellectual Property

Links Itchy Fingered into KPDM - a longstanding problem finally solved.

FA: Steve Pollard, 2000

Sport 20m
28 IP Extension

At the lip of IP, head right and run it out to the chains of Eddie, finishing up that routes extension. Surprisingly good, rope drag isnt too bad considering..

FA: Thomas Boehm, Jan 2020

Unknown 25m
Norton Summit The Hole
V7 Victims of Crime

A traverse starting at Stugang and then linking into Clutch-Boing Link.

FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997

V7 Stugang Willich

Marked. Start left of perennial seepage at the base of 'The Hole'. Hard move up to LH pinch/sidepull, then slightly right into undercling and onwards. Finish at the double shotholed break. Take a rope if doing the extension!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

Boulder 6m
28 Stugang Willich Extension

The obvious extension to Stugang, coming off the shotholes straight into a gaston crux, then linking into 'Dr Strike' to finish. Has been soloed, but not regularly!

FA: Stuart Williams, 2000

Sport 12m
27 International Passport to Smoking Pleasure

Stugang, then onto Filipino Chains

FA: Matt Adams, 1995

Sport 10m
V7 Scartrek

Dynamic boulder problem starting at the base of Stugang but heading right to the sidepull pocket. Dyno out to the 3-finger pocket in the roof, then out to the hard-to-hit slot, finishing up and right on the big jug under the main roof (Diplomacy's rest).

Boulder 7m
V7 UPV Variant Bloc

UPV to the big undercling, then bust direct out via a sloper to gain the Circus Street heel hook horizontal. Match and drop off. Easy V8 or top-end V7. Solid '8 if taking it to the birds nest on Dr Strike.

28 UPV variant

Finish up Dr Strike.

28 Snak 'n Cowboy

Ultra Pleasure Vibe into Circus Street finish.

V7 Diplomacy Half
V7 Diplomacy

Standing start in the depths of the Hole under the line of pockets. Very steep pocket pulling up to the resting jug under the roof - then out left to finish at the Stugang shotholes (break).

FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997

27 Diplomatic Immunity

Links 'Diplomacy" into 'International Passport"

FA: Sharik Walker, 1998

Sport 12m
Norton Summit The Bachelor Pad
V7 Kiss Me Where It Smells Funny

Dyno eliminate. Standing start using small LH nubbin crimp on hanging slab, and RH on adjacent sloper with thumb press. Jump for jug under roof!

Boulder 3m
V7 Potato Aftertaste Low

Jacques the Potato into Chocolate Aftertaste Low.

Boulder 2m
V7 Madball Minus One

(Starts on the polished sloper – then out to jug and up. Follows 'Madball')

Boulder 3m
Belair Tusmore Towers
27 Cycle Sluts from Hell

The thin seam in the centre of the wall (3 bolts to chains)

FFA: Matt Adams, 1992

Sport 9m, 3
Belair Workanda Creek Main Wall
V7 Pathetic Earthings... Who Can Save You Now?

The biggest jump move in Adelaide. Lowest crimper rail below A Trick of the Tail - double-handed to the big jug bypassing polished jug of Snagglepuss. A 7'2" dyno.

FA: James Falconer, 2000

Boulder 2m
Blackwood Paul's Roof
V7 Billy's Locked Out
Boulder 3m
V7 Dirty Harry (trav)
Boulder 4m
V7 Dirty Striker (trav)
Boulder 3m
V7 Full Blown Rampage (trav)
Boulder 4m
Blackwood Magpie Gully
V7 Bicep Buster

FA: Paul Kinnane

Boulder 2m
Blackwood Smoke Cave
V7 Black Hole

Sit start with R+LH on good side pulls. Climb up into 'Nightmoves' underclings and climb this route backwards. Once at the blocky undercling Head up and right and finish matched on the black hole in the back right hand side of the cave.

FA: pamelalansbury, 4 Jul

V7 Nightmoves

Starts in the back left hand side of the cave on the right hand gaston and left hand side pull. Head up to a good edge and then left on a series of underclings. Head out the cave and finish on the headwall.

FFA: TRENT SEARCY, 10 Mar 2014

Mount Barker Summit Little Arapiles
V7 Take a Pig

Take a Chance then reverse Warm Up Right to start jugs and do all of SLAGP. 24 moves to top out.

V7 Take a Chance

Start as for 'Are You Feeling Lucky?' on the right side of the wall (sit start) and when level with the middle break line, traverse left all the way into Sounds Like a Guinea Pig and finish left of the finish of this.

FA: Craig Ingram, 2012

V7 Full Circle

Take a Chance into Warm Up Right reverse then ABSR (back to TAC start hold).

Onkaparinga Snakelands
27 Fully Involved

Grade 20 slab to a V7 boulder problem. The long awaited solution to the 27-year-old open project of Burning Down the House direct finish. Climb the original route to its single bolt loweroff (grade 20 to here), then reverse a move and step right to continue up to a large jug at the base of the steep wall. Big moves through the roof lead to disappointing slopers at the base of the short hanging slab, then a further problematic sequence to top out.

FA: Steve Kelly, 13 Jan 2018

Sport 25m
Onkaparinga Red Cliff
27 Camels Don't Sweat

Was previously a closed project equipped by Nick Ducker and Matty B, then 'opened' in April 2018 for the masses. Climb 'Camel Filter' to the handjam at the end of its crux (7th BR), then up right past final boulder problem (8th BR) to lower off.

Set by Nick Ducker & Matthew Broadbent, 2017

FA: Steve Kelly, 7 Dec 2019

FFA: 7 Dec 2019

Sport 25m, 8
27 Chain Smoker

Emphysema is the next step... More sustained than CDS with a much more logical finish. Take Emphysema to its crux, then instead of moving right under the final bolt, move left via gastons into the very finish of CDS. More sustained than CDS but easier than Emphysema.

Sport 25m, 9
28 Emphysema

‘Emphysema’. The direct result of the addiction to ‘Marlboro Red’. Climb ‘Marlboro Red’ to the 7th BR. Head directly up face to the start of the roof for a brief rest. Use pinches and crimps to fight through blank bulging roof clipping 2 more bolts to gain final head wall. (Extend last draw past lip of the roof to minimise rope drag)

Set by Redanon

FA: Daniel Toone, 6 Jul

Sport 25m, 9
27 Marlboro Red

Climb ‘Camel Filter’ to its (6th BR). Instead of clipping the extended (7th BR), break right clipping 3 more through a 13 move boulder problem under roof to gain a set of jugs over the lip. Mantel and finish up the corner at the chains above.

Set by Redanon

FA: Daniel Toone, 6 Jun

Sport 25m, 9
27 The Art of Seeing

First scoped in 2004 and dismissed, then revisited after 10 years. Up easy wall 4m left of the start to Stalagmite Addiction past two bolts to mantle onto small ledge. Undercling then reach right to slopers (4th BR on face) and up the blank wall/corner to gain a good break under the roof. From here take first weakness out main roof to 'the bowl hold' on the lip. Continue through tricky terrain to good jug several moves above. An easier section through the final rooflet gets you to the chain just below cliff top. Take 10 draws (two for the chain) and back clean.

FA: Steve Kelly, 1 Jul 2015

Sport 25m, 10
27 Top Shelf Material

A 60 move marathon that tests all of your skills. A limestone like 24 leads into a technical slab traverse, which then morphs into a brutal double roof. Follow Stalagmite Addiction, bypass its anchor and move left across slab. Take 2nd roof weakness (skip clipping the Silk Rd BR), and follow the line to the top of the cliff.

FA: 23 Jun 2019

Sport 30m, 12
Gulls Rock
V7 Soul Surfer

A traverse of epic proportions. Sit start on right hand side matched on slopper and traverse all the way left on an assortment of holds and and once at the high sloper head up and out.

Set by thestig

FA: thestig, 27 Dec 2015

Boulder 8m
V7 Blowtorch

Sit start under overhang on left hand sloper and right hand sloper side pull. Make a big move to the lip, traversing slightly and once at the two finger pocket head directly up and out on slopers and thin holds.

Boulder 4m
V7 To The Moon & Back

Sit start on good right hand edge and left hand crimper. Move through two smaller edges then dyno to the good slopper out on the lip. Match to finish. The start will be soon superseded by the obvious start low on the rail. then will move into this. A grade harder.

FA: Jordan Grant, 29 Dec 2015

Boulder 2m
V7 Shoot The Curl

Sit start with hands matched on jug. Make a big move out right to another juggy feature. Move into the undercling then through two obvious edges out on the lip. From here make a huge move left off a right hand sloping edge to a sloping jug out left and finish on the obvious sloper jug to the left of this.

FA: thestig, 1 Oct 2015

Boulder 2m

Showing all 54 routes.

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