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Tweedledee

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Description

The Tweedledee boulder - The lines are ordered from 'Begin at the Beginning' heading right.

Access issues inherited from The Enchanted Forest

Note:
This area is closed on days of extreme fire danger. Do not drive your vehicle into the Native Forest Reserve if gate is unlocked. Park outside the gate, ensuring the road and gate are not blocked to Forestry SA traffic. Overnight camping and campfires are not permitted at any time. The Reserve is open from sunrise to sunset every day. Do not feed the wildlife and stick to marked trails as much as is possible. Scrub off all tick marks before leaving and pack out all rubbish.

Ethic inherited from Wonderland

Leave no trace...

Routes

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Grade Route

Start matched on thin crimper in the middle of the face left of Vorpal Sword, then (with your feet on) make a move to the top, and mantle it out.

Sit start with both hands on the undercling flake. Stand into the crimp as per 'Begin at the Beginning' and then move straight to the lip and mantle.

FA: Dan Berry, 9 Jan 2022

Sit start with left hand under cling and right hand small edge. Move up through vertical fault line and top out slightly left.

Sit start as for 'Vorpal Sword'. Move left to the small edge and traverse left topping out as for 'Directly Possible'. Downgrade due to better beta.

FA: Jordan Grant, 20 Aug 2015

Sit start as for Vorpal Sword but hold its RH crimp with LH and a poor undercling with RH. Pull on and slap for sloper on arête, then adjacent sloper and finish up Down the Rabbit Hole.

Sit Start using right hand edge and left hand edge. Traverse left using slopers and a fingery side pull then head up arête on minimal features to top out.

Start as for Down The Rabbit Hole, go up-to the large LH bucket of the first move then straight up and top out.

FA: John Hudson, 21 Apr 2014

The obvious central line up the slab of the Tweedledee boulder following the layback crack weakness. Sit start at the base of the offset crack with a right hand crimp and the lowest left hand small sidepull. Pull on (crux) and then follow the crack/seam all the way to the top to an easy mantle. Established without chalk or a mat but one mat is highly recommended! More than that however and you will significantly lower the grade.

Sir start as for Bandersnatch. Head mid-way up the obvious weakness before breaking left. Use a committing left hand post and top out as for Cheshire cat.

FA: Hung Nguyen, 1 Sep 2021

Stand start 2m right of Bandersnatch holding obvious flat jugs (higher one with rh). Pull on (marginal feet) and make an explosive move up to the two finger pocket (lh). Gain a high slopey sidepull on the arête and blast straight up to the very slopey top. a set of crimpers on the summit allows the final mantle to be undertaken.

Sit start as for Bandersnatch, then head right past a small pocket to join the start of Breaking the Glass, then climb all of that problem to top out.

FA: Redanon, 2017

Start as for Shot glass- through the iron cross to join pink flamingos- finish up this bloc. I have a feeling the shorter you are the harder this problem will be. ENJOY!

FA: Dan millar, 22 May 2022

Stand start matched on lowest point of trending horizontal edge. Head right and top out when the edge heads around the arête.

Start as for shot glass. Head out right to join pink flamingos, instead of topping out there exit via bashing flamingos .

Eliminate. . Move from pink flamingos rightward start on diagonal crimp. Move right without using the slopers above or the mantle jugs. To the obvious jug around the corner. Mantle out once you reach this.

FA: Dan millar, Aug 2022

Stand start as for 'Pink Flamingo' and make a big move out right to a sloper on the arete. Powerful move into a left hand sloper then delicately move around the corner joining 'Birthday Bash' at it's good sloping jug. Mantle out as for this climb. Climbs the lower hanging arete instead of following the obvious weakness diagonally right.

FA: pamelalansbury, 2021

Sit start under overhang on good right hand pinch and bad left hand sloper side pull. Make a big move out left to a sharp pocket and mantle the summit.

Direct line starting off sidepulls and surmounting the slab via small crimpers.

FA: DOT

Begin on deep horizontal fault between slab and lower edge. LH move to good sloper. RH move along fault to decent hold and mantle onto lower edge. Match both hands on horizontal fault on the big slab and mount. Follow up to top out.

Set: Laurence Judd, 9 Jun 2018

FA: 9 Jun 2018

Stand start on obvious edge to the left of bulge, drop low and traverse right around the bulge until you reach 'Drink Me'. Finish as for 'Drink Me'.

Sit start under overhang on right hand side pull and low small edge. Traverse lip left to in-cut breaks and top out directly over slab.

Same start as for ‘Eat Me’ and heading slightly right to top out on good holds.

Sit start on the lowest section of the horizontally trending sloper rail. traverse left joining 'Eat Me' and climb this route to the end.

FA: pamelalansbury, 2020

Start as for Eat Me, moving up to two edges and mantling left over the bulge. Continuing through the undercling and topping out to the right.

FA: Dan Berry, 27 Dec 2021

Sit start on sloping edges move through face on small edges to top out on good holds.

Start as for Mad Hatters Tea Party and when at the pocket break right to far sloping edge and finish up centre of boulder on slopes. Sustained from start till finish.

FA: Petey Pete, 19 Jun 2014

Sit Start On lowest breakline at the large black streak. Move up and right to higher breakline and follow it to the arete to finish up 'Wristy Business'

FA: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, Sep 2022

Sit Start as for 'The Shrike' and link into 'Positive Aspects of Negative Thinking'

FA: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, Sep 2022

aka. Pocket Project Right Hand Stand. Stand start holding right hand in pocket, left hand on good edge. Lock down to poor LH crimp, then top out.

Crouched start with RH on biggest edge in the breakline and LH on furthest LH edge. Bust a big move RH to the slopey pocket, then a hard press into a crimp in the face up and left. Use a good LH edge left of the Ground Control exit then move into that problems mantle finish.

FA: Jordan Grant, 2020

Crouched start on a set of flat crimps on the right side of the Mad Hatters wall of Tweedle Dee. RH out to an unlikely pinch on the right arête, drop the LH onto the RH start hold and bust out around the arête to a good sidepull. From here gain the arête sloper and go again LH into the crimp line. Top out.

Stand start to 'Ground Control'. Standing start holding the pocket (LH) and the slopey diagonal sidepull just before the arête. Make a hard move RH to a crimp in the horizontal weakness, then gain adjacent crimp LH. Bust a move to a flat edge on the summit, and mantle to top out.

Crouched start holding furthest RH edge in the breakline and better LH edge. Big tension move to the slopey pocket, then RH to diagonal slopey sidepull left of arête. Finish up 'Control'.

FA: 9 Aug 2014

Sit start on RH arete pinch and left hand edge. Climb the arete direct and Mantle out.

Stand start with left hand around arête on horizontal edge and right on other side of arête on side pull. Traverse right along small edges and smears on overhanging slab and top out when it ends.

FA: Adam Clay

Sit-start on a small, horizontal R-hand edge and a LH on arete pinch. Grab the hanging slab and move onto it (using a number of different methods), pulling up to a crimp in the horizontal seam and then to the top for an easy mantle. Edit due to broken Hold.

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