Pleasant slabbing. Home of the classic 'Richards Route' and scary 'Hopes in Slopes'

There is a DBB above Richards Route.



Park at the jetty at the end of Franklin Parade. Walk around (easier to walk up high.)


Descent notes

The descent is very fragile. Descent on right (looking out.)



Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Straight up above the hole in the big overlap past a bolt. This finish is shared with Fin de Siecle.

FA: John Marshall, Tony Barker & Graham Hill, 1977

Start: Scramble up the gully to where the crack breaks out right over an overhang and onto a slab above. Follow this to where it peters out over a little overlap, then step left and past an undercling en route to a big hole at the main overlap. Then traverse out right to finish on the short final wall.

Start straight up the crack. Well protected.

Resist the temptation to move L from the crack towards the undercling. Stay in the crack, clip a bolt and join the original route at the R end of the big overlap. Hard.

Like many scare routes, easy to toprope, easy to fall off, but bloody terrifying to lead. A single bolt protects the hardest moves within the first 4 metres, then you are on your own. A cam in a hollow flake follows backed up by some wires, then a 6 metre runout to a twin skyhook placement on a large crimper line. From there, it's about a 12 metre runout to the top diagonally leftwards at first, then straight up. Carrigan toproped the line prior to the first ascent (ie. It was 'headpointed') - and left his rack weighing down a single skyhook on the last placement. The final part on a toprope may feel about grade 18, however it will feel very different on lead! British E5 5c - which means 'dangerous!'

FA: Carrigan/Shepherd


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