Routes in South Australia

Sit start to Madball - FA Klem Loskot 1999. Originally graded 8a+/V12 but later upgraded to 8b/v13 by Klem. Lots of sequences now exist.

Starts seated right of Osaki Dolphin, traverse under Scartrek over the slime to the Wormhole search via pocket, edges and underclings then end on Diplomacy jug!

Links the Shining Path into the top of Filipino Furburger. Grade 30 route.

Scartrek-Diplomacy link then Stugang Ext gaston crux into The Wormhole Search.

Fred's finest linkup. Given 33 but settled at 32 after repeats? Start as for 36, then through Stugang Extension crux then climb the holds just right of circus street linking back to the end of the cave.

The queen needs a doctor! Climb God Save The Queen to the good jugs of Angelina's. Then break left along Dr. Angelina to it’s finish (the finish of Locked Down).

NAGA finishing traversing into Post-Colonial exit and top-out. A tad harder than NAGA and EVEN more contrived! Have fun.

Start as for The Calm Before the Storm once you have reached the finishing jug, continue leftwards through a series of crimps until you reach the starting holds of Locked Down, LH undercling and RH crimp. Continue to climb Locked Down to its finishing hold.

One of the longest lines at the crag, roughly 25-30 hand moves. A full on pumper!

Sit start at the far back left of the cave on good holds. Make a series of big moves on poor holds through the blank section of rock and directly gain the good hold in the crack (CBTS finish hold). From here continue up through ion stone flake and head towards the matching sloper before making a big move to the lip. Mantle and finish.

The vague arête 1m right of Keep Calm. Stand start on high poor hand pinch and right hand good edge (will require stacked pads). Make big move to right hand right edge and bust to lip to top-out. Possible lower start matched on edges right of the arete. Estimate grade V12+

Sit start as per 'Can't dance, but I can do the Twist', traverse lip to the right, exiting as per 'Hop on Up'.

Linkup of Stalker into Tao, crossing into Cocktoe through the Stalker side- pull and pinch hold. ‘Slightly harder than Tao’ according to the first ascentionist. FA: Sharik Walker. Dropped some grades from V12 due to new beta. Named for the butchering of Shariks beta on other Pad climbs.

Start as for Cocktoe, then break left out near the lip via a crimp and some compression. Originally graded V12. Slightly easier than Butchers according to the FA.

Madball Stand to completion then traversing right through prominent bulge and into finish on Tao/Butchers finish jug. Originally graded 11.

Sit-start with right hand on small scallopy undercling (SGF low start hold) and an edgy pinch with the other. Punch up with your left to a hold on the lip then as per SGF from the undercling and then to the top. A very hard one mover. Crouch start goes about V5/6 and is worthy of your time.

An old local project nabbed by Klem! Sit start with left hand on the Jaques underclings. Make a move (crux) into the left sidepull above then right hand into good undercling, then into and finish as for Chocolate. AKA the sit start to Chocolate (known as the Pinch). Given 7c/V9 by Klem but upgraded by 2nd and 3rd ascentionists.

Hot Chocolate into Chocolate Aftertaste, finishing on a higher jug via an exciting sidepull move.

Start as for 'Diplomacy' then go direct through roof on pockets through the worst rock in the Hole. Ends as a boulder problem on the Dr Strike jug (the hole), but was done on a rope by Matt to that routes finish (grade 31).

Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given 30 by Matt it was downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent to 29. Now a V10 boulder problem.

Boulder route just left of The Shining Path through the roof finishing at SP chain.

Wormhole Search into Nirvanoxyne.

Starts as for 'Scartrek' but avoids the Scatrek finish and instead launches straight into the last half of 'Diplomacy'. Then does the Stugang 'Extension' crux moves, followed by the finish of 'Circus Street'. Continue all the way out to the entrance to the cave.

Sit Start LH Sit Pull and RH Crimp. Dyno to the finish hold of 'Grope a Sloper' and top out.

Stand start from the end of Madball and follow the bolts to the chains. Good movement all the way. One of the hardest outdoor (as opposed to the Hole) routes in the State.

International passport to the cave entrance. The most direct line in the Hole.

Stugang Extension to Circus Street chain ie Snack Related Mishap into Nirvanoxyne.

Start: As for Stugang.

or alternately "Filipino Furburger" into "Nirvanoxyne" FA: Trent Searcy 2012

Climb Shining Path take the rest then launch into Filipino all the way to the final chains.

Come Out Fighting extension. "Climb to the glued on ear hold then head right to the circus street chain, then all the way out to the end!"

The bolted seam R of Melodrama and L of Be There or Be Square, to chains.

Stugang Extension into the finish of 'Wormhole'.

A distinct straight line feature resembling a crocodile’s back from bottom to top. Start as for La Carrickalinga but take high line staying in feature the whole way. A big roll through move brings you to open pinches and a brief over head heel toe rest. Exit at the top of the line using arete over bulge and finish on flat edge above.

Climb Bulldozed into Silence to the Trident rest (good heel), then briefly into Trident finish before taking a diagonal into Locked Down. A 32 move pumper.

Climb Angelina’s PHD to its mid height rest. Take the Bulldozed link to the rest on Trident, then continue left to the rest jug of Locked Down (ie. reversing AF link). Continue sequence of Locked Down and top out of cave.

Sit start at The Calm Before The Storm into Shredding The Mid to finish. Sharp power endurance!

As for the new low variant (less contrived sequence) of Punch Drunk being the new convention, line gets a slight downgrade.

Climb The Calm Before the Storm to the opposing jugs in the roof crack, here head right into Trident using a wide RH pinch and jet straight to the lip as for this problem. An absolute crag classic, flowing difficult moves from start to finish. Has been made easier with more cleaner holds and taking an easier line through. Still resistant.

Start left of Stalker with LH on good hold in roof and RH on low pinch. Out diagonally right via pinches and a heel, then through the ‘breadloaf’ pinch , finishing directly on the Stalker final finish hold. Was easier/better before the right hand pinch broke.

The Pad classic. Starts LH undercling and RH pocket (Crux) – then dyno to polished sloper – then out to jug and up. Numerous sequences all hard. Was given 7b+ by Toni but consensus is V9.

Climb Benelli's Extension but finish up the big underclings on the far right instead of the sloper. Originally given V10 but with new beta has settled at 9.

Sitstart – then out across the bad crimpers/slopers on the lip. RH crescent sidepull, then left into undercling right into undercling paste right foot on and go to the triangle pinch out left (in traverse line) – then straight up to the sloper (via intermediate pinch) – and match.

Start as for Twist and Shout but head left though the obvious chalked sloper edge and undercling to the start hold of Aftertaste then up and finish on the high jug.

Was thought to be Non Intentional Lifeform by the FA and subsequent ascentionists. Starts immediately right of Hot Chocolate with left on the right hand hold and the right hand on a small undercling. Up into the undercling and sidepull of Hot Chocolate then as per that problem. Essentially an easier independant start.

Start as for Starfuckers but at the sloper cross under to Scartrek pocket sidepull and then up Stugang RHV to finish. Classic flow.

Sit Start as for 'The Shrike' and link into 'Positive Aspects of Negative Thinking'

Same start as for Redemption. At the end of horizontal traverse head directly up through marginal holds before mantling over roof. Finish at Redemption anchor.

Stugang Ext to the Circus Street jug, then reverse Strike-Circus into Gorgeous Guys and finish as for that route.

aka. 'Dr Strike' 'Extension'. 'Dr Strike' to the chain, then link into Nirvaoxyne finish.

Filipino Path boulder then traverse leftwards to the chains on Come Out Fighting

First line of bolts on your left as you enter the Hole. Stuart Williams with the vision and Sharik Walker with the send. Originally graded 29. V10 if you boulder it.

The hardest route in Morialta. Boulder problem start through low roof above boulder (stick clip bolt shared with Olympus), 2m left of Pussy Cats. Join Following a Feltch through big roof then cut back right around arete via another bouldery sequence. Finish at loweroff shared with Kiss My Brain.

Climb the bolted crack above the Meditations belay and continue up and across Meditations when that route is reached.

Climb Angelina's to its rest, then take a LH gaston and cross to a good pocket. Span up into the Punch Drunk slopers and go left to the Trident rest. Finish up Trident.

Pinch De Resistancé start, moving through pinches to a positive crimp rail. A wide RH gaston gains the Angelina’s PHD pocket with a good hold that sets you up for another RH gaston on marginal crimps. Match this face and then finish up Know Better Learn Fast.

Sit start with 3 finger RH undercling and good LH edge/pinch. Move through two obvious pinches of GSTQ with LH, then up right to a 3 finger slopey crimp via crimp intermediate, cross into sloper and then bust for the two jugs and finish as for Angelinas PHD.

Sit start on RH gaston and LH sidepull deeper and left from Pinch de Resistance. Move to pinch and into undercling, into the pinch of Pinch de Resistance as an undercling and link into Angelinas PHD via a series of sidepulls, pinches and slopers. Seriously good flows and good core tension throughout. Crag classic.

Link up. Start God Save The Queen to good jugs of Angelina's, then take the Bulldozed link to the slopers of Punch Drunk and finish as for that.

Link up of God Save The Queen to rest jugs of Angelina's, then take the Bulldozed link into the finish of Trident.

Calm Before the Storm in it's entirety to the big opposing jugs. Then via good right hand edge cross into crux hold of God Save The Queen. Finish as per this climb.

Sit-start 1m left of God Save the Queen and make some hard moves through pinches and crimps to gain the crack, then break right to a blind two finger pocket then a pinch into Pinch De Resistancé holds finishing as the standard Angelina's.

The stand start to the Blood project. Start at the large jug in the crack in the roof, big move to crimps and then to a pinch, huge roll through to an ironstone flake and then into a difficult sloper section followed by the headwall. Heels, toes and anything goes! Many new holds have been cleaned and added, in and around the line making for a path of lesser resistance. Still very enjoyable climbing!

Sit start matched on obvious good edge right next to good undercling. Big throw to weird box edge pocket thing and side pulls and edges to finish on jug just up from finish jug of CBTS. 1st boulder into the There Will Be Blood project.

Sit start matched on the monster jug on the right hand side of the boulder. Traverse left on an assortment of large to tiny sharp crimps. Top out on the left hand side of the boulder when the curved horizontal arete ends.

Start underneath the prow matched on a good undercling. Crimp, pinch and slap your way to the very tip and top out.

Starts matched on the lowest section of the curb. Climb the curb to the top. Top out.

Stand start and gain the initial small ledge. From here head up the left hand side on tiny edges and smears. Once at the good sloper follow it back into the centre of the slab and top out. WARNING: This is a 10-12 metre highball. A fall anywhere above half way will lead to serious consequences.

Alternative description: Multiple low percentage move slab (10 metres) relying on very small crystals, smears and one and two finger crimps. Crux at approx 6m totally relies on an extremely bad left toe smear that may only stick 1 time out of ten if that. No positive handholds throughout this section mean that your feet could pop at any time. Getting to the seam is easy, getting past it to a LH sloper side pull on the left arête is approx V5/6 in slab money (meaning technical insecure feet). From the LH sidepull to the ‘ramp’ is the crux (6 moves and potentially V6 in its own right if your feet hang around long enough to undertake a hand move). Final 3m can be done direct or traverse right then up via a V0 mantle press. Landing is pretty good however the fall trajectory will probably have you falling leftwards into the adjacent boulder/fissure. For a link on top rope possibly a grade of 28 applies. Quite a bit harder than Grampians highballs of the same grade.

Sit start on right hand side of boulder matched on obvious sloping dish. Traverse left and finish as for the stand start.

Sit start on RH arete pinch and left hand edge. Climb the arete direct and Mantle out.

Crouched start with RH on biggest edge in the breakline and LH on furthest LH edge. Bust a big move RH to the slopey pocket, then a hard press into a crimp in the face up and left. Use a good LH edge left of the Ground Control exit then move into that problems mantle finish.

Sit Start On lowest breakline at the large black streak. Move up and right to higher breakline and follow it to the arete to finish up 'Wristy Business'

Direct line starting off sidepulls and surmounting the slab via small crimpers.

Sit start as for Bandersnatch, then head right past a small pocket to join the start of Breaking the Glass, then climb all of that problem to top out.

Climb 'Soul Surfer' into 'Popping Bubbles' and top out as for this route. Pumpfest!

WYLRO to the 2nd to last move (flat RH edge) then TAC crux move into Are You Feeling Lucky.

Start matched on BDTH undercling. Break up & right to flat slopey edge, then right gain into gaston press. Push up into bad undercling and cross LH to the good dish of Nightmoves. Finish in the black hole up and right. A unique sequence for this cave.

Climb all of Black Hole, then back out via Nightmoves finish. 28-30 move marathon.

Start 'Very Low Traverse' into 'Bicep Buster' and finish as per route.

Start as for 'Twist & Shout' but keep traversing right across slopers then up into the good undercling. Work your feet out, then head up and out (through blade jug) to the finish sloper of Twist and Shout.

Starts under main roof on reasonable undercling (RH) and poorer undercling (LH). A very powerful 5-move problem. Pop LH to intermediate ‘breadloaf’ pinch, then big move out to the pocket on the lip (LH again) – catch the breadloaf as an intermediate (RH) – then up to jug in the Aftertaste traverse line and finish as for CHinese Nuggets. V8 as a crouchstart but take 9 points if you start seated on the lower holds.

Alternative name for SGF. Not an independent problem. Description was as for NILF.

Start as for Scartrek into Diplomacy but head right into big undercling then out to sloper and Circus Street horizontal.

Ultra Pleasure Vibe to the Circus Street jug.

aka the start to The Wormhole Search. Just left of Diplomacy gain reasonable sidepull (RH in Diplomacy pocket) then gaston awkward pocket to press up and left into thinner 3-finger (often wet). Lunge for the jammed block in roof, then Diplomacy jugs.

Start as for Diplomacy and head left into Scartrek to finish.

Sit-start on undercling/pocket between Stugang Willich and Diplomacy (currently has a chalked S below). Head left through right-hand hold to gain a good left-hand undercling. Move up through a right-hand crimp to gain the first pocket on Scartrek with left-hand and finish as for this route. If you cross under to Scartrek pocket and finish up Stugang take 9. Three stars FA Trent Searcy 2021.

Start up Scartrek, then finish up Diplomacy at the shotholes.

Stugang Extension past the hard gaston move, finishing on the Circus Street jug.

Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain.

Start on the jug under the overhang. Make a move up and then traverse right on low edges and continue as per Pogger.

Sit start on low twin undercling blobs, fire through good holds to large underclings. Monster throw to lip then a technical exit left and up slab. Classic!

The snake shaped line linking ‘Top Shelf Material’ into ‘Emphysema’ finish. Climb TSM past it’s toilet bowl crux, then traverse left under roof to finish on ‘Emphysema’ crux to chains. 70+ moves through face, slabs, roofs and cut loose crux’s over 14 bolts. Extend last draw of Stalagmite and all slab traverse bolts. Unclip final 2 draw as your being lowered off to minimise drag when pulling the rope.

The obvious continuation of Lust that will have you burning for days. As for Lust to its final bolt then punch left to the hanging arete and blast up the outrageously steep headwall, don't drop the mantle!

History’s cloudy but first bolted in early 2000’s with home made hangers. Recently re equiped. Climb easy face to traverse line. Move around bulge through a tricky clip to chockstone under final roof. Thin holds gain the slab above to lower off anchor.

1 historic hanger left on route but not needed for line. First accent was to original double hangers on the lip of the roof but since extended above head wall for a better finish.

Strike Circus to the chains at the cave entrance.

A variation on UPV. Instead of starting as for Scartrek, start as for Diplomacy. At the 'blob', gain big undercling and punch out to the sloper. Reach into the Stugang Ext gaston hold as a sidepull, then dyno for the Circus Str jug. Finish as for 'Stugang Extension'.

Climb the 'Scartrek' boulder problem. Just shy of the Stugang shotholes, move into a big undercling and then grab the Stugang 'Extension' gaston hold with your LH (as a sidepull). Perform the biggest drive-by in the world and gain the 'Circus Street' traverse line. Finish as for 'Stugang Extension' ie. take a rope! Probably 30.

Start: As for 'Scartrek'.

Originally established by Matt Adams, short extension to the circus street chains later added by Sharik Walker. Takes the very overhanging pocket line just left of the marked Stugang start.

IP to the roof, then traverse left through Payneham, past North Terrace and head through the roof of Strolling/Crossroads direct

Starts as for Fred Radford then takes the Following a Feltch finish, ending at the chain of Gladiator.

Climbs the initial boulder problem start of Olympus, then breaks left through the main roof (instead of avoiding it - see 'Olympus') to join 'No Mustard On Withdrawal' at its crux. Continue up headwall then trend right to arete and climb to the Gladiator chain.