Routes in South Australia for selected grade

Find the vertical crack in the middle of the L Amigo that bends L near the ground. Start several metres to the R and climb L trending flakes to gain the crack. Up and L around the rooflet. A move or two up the corner then step L to gain a crack leading to the top.

A very aesthetic line, although threatened by the nearby bolts of The Scarlet Pimpernell.

Start in short R facing corner, make a strenous move up to the major horizontal at the roof, move left and then up the beautiful crack. The original route finished up Ajax but there are now abseil chains above the first pitch (20m to ground.)

The most popular way to do this exciting route on a mega flake.

1. 30m (10) Up corner and easy ramp to stance.

2. 15m (13) Step up to the flake and follow it leftwards to the Pagoda. Either squeeze in behind it or swing around it. Belay on top of the flake.

3. 15m (15) Move up to the scoop, then follow the R leaning crack back to the major corner.

4. 43m (12) Follow the major corner.

There are rap chains on top of the first pitch. 30m to the ground.

1. 30m (15) Up the chimney then move out left at the roof. Continue up corner to the big ledge and chains.

2. 33m (10) Up the steep corner.

3. 35m (12) Up a series of steps above the trees and follow the bulging corner to a steep block chimney which leads through a narrow opening to the top.

Up wall left of Prehistoric Cockroach

The crack line just left of the callitris. Pass an overhang and remember it's not over until you clip the chains. 30m rope stretcher abseil to the ground.

A variant second pitch to Icarus. Climb the crack between Icarus and Ultion till it expires, straight up through bulge and up to airy moves through roof at shallow corner, straight up wall to ledge.

up the outside of the chockstones on pitch 2

A Moonarie mega classic, the 3 pitches are all exciting and all very different. Start in corner at left end of overhang at right side of large mossy slab.

1. Haul past the overhang and then follow the thin crack to the major ledge. Traverse left to belay below the flake.

2. Swing up the flake to the spacious ledge (rap chains on your left - awkward position, 50m to ground.)

3. Up crack, then take a deep breath and swing right along the sharp ledge. Heave ho and then follow left trending line to the top.

The rap chains at the top are awkward to access from above (consider roping up.) From here it is a 30m abseil to the large ledge, then 50m to the ground (second abseil is in an awkward position.)

Climb the rib of Attunga to the tree, then follow the obvious line up the middle of the wall. At 35m the crack trends left to chains. Take either double ropes or at least a 70m single for the abseil.

This mega crack was done on the very first climbing trip to Moonarie! Some big cams will be handy. Would be worth an extra star if it was further from Yanama. Scramble up to the ledge to start below the Yanama corner.

1. The wide crack on the right. Lose a grade for every time you touch Yanama. Belay in the cramped cave.

2. The crack above in a glorious position. At top, rap chains 5m to your right. 50m to ground.

An exposed outing in a spectacular position. Well protected. Start at the very left end of the wall beneath DOA.

1. Step left out to the arete and climb this until the large ledge. Stay on the Great Wall side of the arete for maximum value.

2. The best finish is to continue up the arete on "Buckley's" at grade 17. Alternatively you can nip off leftwards on "Sorcerer's Apprentice" (12).

Begin at the crack between MC and SYI. Up, L, up, R to finish in the V-chimney.

Start as for The Very Furry Caterpillar Pull over rooflet at 3m and head up and left to finish up crack.

Start at right end of wall on ledge. Up past 4 bolts to rap chains.

Start as for Bleat Route but head straight up the RH corner. Continue.

4m R of GU. Pass the triangular roof on its L.

Climb the wall 2m L of Tas. Penetrate a weakness at the overhang to finish in a thin crack.

10m L of KTBATHWD. Climb through the roof, place a cam, move up, place another, then layback up and L to the arête. Grab a jug and run it out to to the top.

The third crack, straight and clean.

The second crack. Steep for 5m then easier.

The hand crack 7m L of the shattered flake. Through the bulge and on.

The chimney 15m L of MS. Tubes protect the first 12m. Some loose rock.

Scrappy climbing leads to engaging jamming sequence. Finish at the final tunnel.

Head up the easy corner and steer up the left edge of the top bulge for a slightly harder finish. Short but sweet.

Not TeDiuM, actually quite nice. Climb the blocks to the hand crack, then climb the crack to the top.

You had to be quick to get the first ascent on the dark side. Start at the obvious crack below the large block on a ledge, over and around this through the crack above. A fillip awaits where you least expect it.

Obvious chimney with chock stones. The first is a cracker!