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Caramel Slice Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 70
14

Seasonality

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F
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M
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Description

6 good sport climbs and assorted trad

Approach

Park at the last u bend before the car park at the main south sister area, follow the thin track towards the obvious rocky outcrop, climbs start at the first face then follow around the north of the crag.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Just before the main crag is a small face. Climb this.

FA: Ashley Mason, Norm Selby July 2003 & Norm Selby, 2003

The first sport route you see, on the part of the buttress facing the ocean. Nice climbing up a sharp layback flake to DBB. Rock is a bit suspect and rock around last U bolt has half broken away.

FA: A Mason & N Hancock, Sep 2011

This short route, on the pillar below LS, packs a real punch. Slap and span your way up the opposing aretes. Take care clipping. DBB.

FA: N Hancock & A Mason, Sep 2011

An excellect route, up the sustained off vertical arete at the left side of the main north facing buttress. DBB.

FA: N. Selby & A.Mason, 2003

Start as for Science Circus but head up left across the blank face to finish up hand crack. Poorly protected. Possible on top rope from Turn the Page anchors.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Bob MacMahon, 1984

Good pro, fiddly and a sparse but adequate. One carrot on the slab.

FA: Ashley Mason, 1996

Follows vague arete on right side of main buttress. Improves with height. DBB.

FA: N.Selby & A.Mason, 2003

A variant of AM27, up a shallow bridging corner right of that route.

FA: N.Selby & A.Mason, 2003

FA: N.Hancock

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