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Description

Probably the best crag found so far near Georges River. This cave is full of classic boulders and will guarantee a fantastic day out whatever your climbing ability. As you approach the area one thing you will probably notice is the vast amount of untouched rock just begging to be climbed! The cave itself stays virtually dry no matter the conditions, but is however known to seep after an extended period of rain.

Byron Glover

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Drive down to Meredith Cres, St Helens Park. And look for the gate leading into Manssfield Creek Reserve. On foot, follow the tarmac strip and turn right heading down the dirt road till you reach a metal gate. Don't take the metal gate that is on the asphalt; you've gone too far down the tarmac! Continue past the gate and turn left at the T-junction. Follow the road around for another 100 meters or so, till you see a pile of rocks near the left turning bend on the right side of the road. At this point head straight into the bush following the piles of rock’s straight down to the creek line. Once you can see the creek, turn left and follow it down another 50 meters or so till you see the large cave.

Byron Glover

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on left trending flake, go into corner then up and over via obvious jug flake. Followed old chalk don't know who did FA

On the approach to the cave first route you come across. Sit start from jagged arete and slot make a techy traverse right finishing up via a sloper and crimp. Quite a nice puzzle without beta

Chris Beers

FA: Chris, 21 Oct 2021

Sit start on right flake, punchy move up into the back half of Wagon Wheel

From the slot on the wall right of Wagon Wheel up and to the right

FA: Chris

From the flat edge and right hand pinch follow the seam up and out

Chris Beers

FA: Chris

Stand start on some shallow pockets about half a meter left of "Nukproof".

Perhaps more scary then it is hard… Stand start with your RH in a four finger pocket and your LH in a two finger pocket. Move to a LH pocket and some crimps before a big dyno to a slopey crimp. Keep moving up to make a committing move to gain the left jug at the break.

FA: Tom Farrell

Sit start matched on a slopey shelf in the large hole. Make some tricky moves to gain the large bowl at the lip, then head right to finish in the break.

Sit start at the back R corner of the low scoop, on a L side pull and R pinch pocket. Pull the good black pockets through the horizontal roof to finish matched on the lip. Used to finish as for "Dribble" in project form, feel free to try but it is much harder.

Phillip Booth

Set: Paul Frothy Thomson

FFA: Ben Jenga, 25 Feb 2017

Line of holds through roof just to the right of Black Bomb. Sit start at back of cave with hands matched on flake jug thing. Climb straight out past the huge jug pocket to eventually finish at the lip. Finish at the big jug break if you're swole.

Set: Patman

Start as per Max I Am, but climb leftwards across the pocketed roof to finish as per Black Bomb. Fine piece of extended roof bouldering.

Sit start (LH) on an under cling jug and (RH) on a large pinch. Make some burly moves to gain the lip heading right to an edge and small pocket before moving to the break.

Has recently been vandalised by kids?? One hold a little broken and chips out of another..

Chris Beers

Sit start as for "Max I Am" and make some big moves right to gain the scoop on "Ice Eyes", finish as for "Ice Eyes".

Chris Beers

FA: Chris, 13 Nov 2021

Sit start as Jazz Heart, traverse the left most holds till you reach a thin rail like edge large enough to match. Make a tricky move to a left pocket and finish as for "Max I Am".

Chris Beers

Sit start on the big jug in the back of the cave, move left to some pockets and then a big move to a good edge following the line of holds up right to the break.

Phillip Booth & Jordan Maxwell

Sit start as Jazz Heart then following the right side of features up to the break.

Phillip Booth

Start as for Bank Roll then from the jug 2 moves in bust out right into the big hueco of Rogers then match top via jug and crimp between the top of Roger and Bank. Named after https://www.thecrag.com/climber/jaimewilliams taking an awkward fall and breaking his wrist going for the second ascent

FA: Chris, Oct 2021

Flick of the wrist but finish up rogers hitman

FA: Chris, Oct 2021

Link Rogers Hitman into top of Jazz Heart via the lip jugs.

Rogers into flick of wrist top easier top to rogers

FA: Chris, Oct 2021

Sit start with your LH on an under cling and your RH on a forward facing crimp. Move out to the large hole before heading right to the break.

Phillip Booth

How many spins can you do? Kneebars are your friend.

Starts about halfway between Jazz Heart and Style Cat. Sit start on good horn undercling and pinchy undercling (in a smallish heuco). Straight out to the big heuco (Rogers Hitman) but stay low in this and traverse around the lip to finish up Style Cat.

Maybe soft for the grade but the crag needs another seven.

Sit start as for Rogers Hitman heading right towards a four finger pocket, then some big moves to gain the jugs on the lip before a large move up to the break.

Phillip Booth

Sit start as for "Blue Alien" heading left to a large pocket and a sharp crimp with a thumb catch. Make some difficult moves to gain the large left hand pocket on the lip before heading to the break.

Byron Glover

FA: Byron Glover, 2012

Sit start matched on a right facing under cling. Make some difficult moves to gain the two shallow pockets on the lip heading slightly left to the break. [Note that the right jug pocket in "Lektra Ice" is off]

Sit start matched on a right facing under cling. Move left to some shallow pockets in the roof before some hard moves to gain the large pocket on the lip. Finish in the break.

Leah Dempsey Chris Beers

A short side pull problem 5m right of Lektra Ice.

The next bunch of problems are located to the right of the Main Cave.

A very awkward start to a much easier but high wall finish. Grade still to be confirmed..

Hard undercling start to a good left jug then a couple of small incut crimps to a high finish.

10m further along the cliff from 'Undercling Two'

Sit start at the back of the little cave matched on a small hold at the start of the flake feature. Follow this and finish matched in jug on the face above.

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 17 Oct 2021

Another 20m along the cliff from 'Baby Shacks'

Sit start with hands matched in the scope and up the good holds to the right. Finished with matched hands on top ledge.

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 17 Oct 2021

Start as for 'Teflon Don' to the pocket then traverse right using the crimpy crack to gain the pocket on 'Jackie the Lackey'. Finish as for 'Jackie thr Lackey'.

Grade to be confirmed. Share your thoughts.

FA: Phillip Booth, 19 Mar

Sit start right side of wall next to 'Teflon Don' on obvious decent jug. The separated block is off.

Head slightly left into the juggy hueco then continue straight up. Finished matched on top jugs.

Grade to be confirmed. Share your thoughts

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 4 Dec

Sit start with left hand on low pinch/edge and right hand in side-pull crack.

Climb up using the flake crack only and finish at the second break.

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 12 Dec 2021

Sit start with left hand on low undercling and right hand on scope side-pull. Head up and finish matched on first big break.

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 12 Dec 2021

Routes

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Grade Route

From the St Helens Park bouldering cave, walk down to the creek and follow this downhill over a few boulders. Spot the vague track that runs along the cliffline on the left hand side (facing downhill). Follow the cliffline around until you get to the 'Rave Cave' (plenty of graffiti, fire place, chair and sledge hammer).

Boulders are described left to right. The ‘top outs’ for the boulders are fairly obvious as comfortable standing positions but are technically not complete top outs because there is another 10 – 12 metres of cliff above you. Jump back down, or scramble off to the side… Use your judgement.

Low cave at RHS of the 'rave cave'. Sit start on horn at back of cave. Climb along flake line until lip. Pull around this to ‘top out’.

Set: Patman

First climb done here. The name describes how the first ascensionist felt after completing it. Sit start outside the low cave (RHS) with hands matched on the right side of the blob flake and feet outside low cave (contrived but makes for good times). Transition over to the flake line and climb along this to finish up Nangs Phantasmagoria.

Set: Patman

Sit start as per Homo Erectus (RHS of low cave). Transition over to the flake line of Homo Erectus, then immediately transition to the Nangs Phantasmagoria flakeline. Finish up Nangs Phantasmagoria.

Set: Patman

Low roof centre-stage in the 'rave cave'. Sit start under roof on good underclings (heading left out of roof). Bust out to lip on left side of roof, pull around lip and ‘top out’.

Set: Patman

BACK WALL IS OUT! Sit start under roof on good underclings (heading left out of roof). Bust out to lip on left side of roof, pull around lip and ‘top out’.

Set: Patman

BACK WALL IS OUT! Same start as Xenomorph. Once at the lip, traverse all the way around the lip of the roof to right-hand side. Pull around lip here and ‘top out’.

Set: Patman

BACK WALL IS OUT! Sit start at left inside corner of roof using the lip jug as an undercling and outside wall for your feet. Climb under the roof towards the right outside corner of the roof. Pull lip here and ‘top out’. FA was done without using any of the lip jugs of the roof as you climb (only at start and finish). Might make it easier? Try it out if you like.

Set: Patman

Very low start on blob jug thing. Pull on and gain nice two/three finger pocket then head left to slopey jug pocket before huge move up the face to eventually top out on jugs.

Set: Patman

Don’t touch the fragile ‘Y chromosome’! At RHS of the 'rave cave'. Start sitting down in scoop with hands on corner jug. Undercling and crimp your way to the pebbly jug slot, then gain the jugs in the big scoop and head left, making use of a pinchy side pull thing to get to a jug up and left. top out here and scramble off to the left.

Set: Patman

Don’t touch the fragile ‘Y chromosome’! Stand start on slopey pebbly pocket things. Jump up to lip of scoop and head straight up to higher jug(s) via an undercling intermediate. Traverse left to horn jug to scramble off boulder.

Set: Patman

From the 'rave cave', you can continue to follow the cliffline past the heap of rubbish chucked from the lookout above to another set of boulders located under the next big cave.

Attractive blunt arete spoilt by break/ledge at start. Sit start on break jugs. Up to the ear crimp, slot, then jugs to top out.

Set: Patman

Topo to be added shortly.

Start in pebbly undercling at back of low cave. Head straight out to lip horn. Pull lip on crimps to top out towards the right. Alternatively, you may finish up either Jizzmaster Zero or Choda Boy.

Set: Patman

Start on lip horn, traverse left to finish up juggy corner (that you down climb to get off these boulders).

Set: Patman

Start on lip horn, Head right to big flake jug. Pull around this to top out.

The next boulder is another 20 m further along the track.

The crux is finding the start position! Start matched on the good undercling at back of very low cave. Pull on and move out and around lip to break. From here head straight up on nice rock to top out boulder. Alternatively, this can be finished up one of the other problems here.

Set: Patman

Set: Patman

Start on break. Traverse left on crimps then straight up on jugs to top out.

Set: Patman

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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