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St Helen's Park Cave

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Description

Probably the best crag found so far near Georges River. This cave is full of classic boulders and will guarantee a fantastic day out whatever your climbing ability. As you approach the area one thing you will probably notice is the vast amount of untouched rock just begging to be climbed! The cave itself stays virtually dry no matter the conditions, but is however known to seep after an extended period of rain.

Byron Glover

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Drive down to Meredith Cres, St Helens Park. And look for the gate leading into Manssfield Creek Reserve. On foot, follow the tarmac strip and turn right heading down the dirt road till you reach a metal gate. Don't take the metal gate that is on the asphalt; you've gone too far down the tarmac! Continue past the gate and turn left at the T-junction. Follow the road around for another 100 meters or so, till you see a pile of rocks near the left turning bend on the right side of the road. At this point head straight into the bush following the piles of rock’s straight down to the creek line. Once you can see the creek, turn left and follow it down another 50 meters or so till you see the large cave.

Byron Glover

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on left trending flake, go into corner then up and over via obvious jug flake. Followed old chalk don't know who did FA

On the approach to the cave first route you come across. Sit start from jagged arete and slot make a techy traverse right finishing up via a sloper and crimp. Quite a nice puzzle without beta

Chris Beers

FA: Chris, 21 Oct 2021

Sit start on right flake, punchy move up into the back half of Wagon Wheel

From the slot on the wall right of Wagon Wheel up and to the right

FA: Chris

From the flat edge and right hand pinch follow the seam up and out

Chris Beers

FA: Chris

Stand start on some shallow pockets about half a meter left of "Nukproof".

Perhaps more scary then it is hard… Stand start with your RH in a four finger pocket and your LH in a two finger pocket. Move to a LH pocket and some crimps before a big dyno to a slopey crimp. Keep moving up to make a committing move to gain the left jug at the break.

FA: Tom Farrell

Sit start matched on a slopey shelf in the large hole. Make some tricky moves to gain the large bowl at the lip, then head right to finish in the break.

Sit start at the back R corner of the low scoop, on a L side pull and R pinch pocket. Pull the good black pockets through the horizontal roof to finish matched on the lip. Used to finish as for "Dribble" in project form, feel free to try but it is much harder.

Phillip Booth

Set: Paul Thomson

FFA: Ben Jenga, 25 Feb 2017

Sit start (LH) on an under cling jug and (RH) on a large pinch. Make some burly moves to gain the lip heading right to an edge and small pocket before moving to the break.

Has recently been vandalised by kids?? One hold a little broken and chips out of another..

Chris Beers

Sit start as for "Max I Am" and make some big moves right to gain the scoop on "Ice Eyes", finish as for "Ice Eyes".

Chris Beers

FA: Chris, 13 Nov 2021

Sit start as Jazz Heart, traverse the left most holds till you reach a thin rail like edge large enough to match. Make a tricky move to a left pocket and finish as for "Max I Am".

Chris Beers

Sit start on the big jug in the back of the cave, move left to some pockets and then a big move to a good edge following the line of holds up right to the break.

Phillip Booth & Jordan Maxwell

Sit start as Jazz Heart then following the right side of features up to the break.

Phillip Booth

Start as for Bank Roll then from the jug 2 moves in bust out right into the big hueco of Rogers then match top via jug and crimp between the top of Roger and Bank. Named after https://www.thecrag.com/climber/jaimewilliams taking an awkward fall and breaking his wrist going for the second ascent

FA: Chris, Oct 2021

Flick of the wrist but finish up rogers hitman

FA: Chris, Oct 2021

Rogers into flick of wrist top easier top to rogers

FA: Chris, Oct 2021

Sit start with your LH on an under cling and your RH on a forward facing crimp. Move out to the large hole before heading right to the break.

Phillip Booth

Sit start as for Rogers Hitman heading right towards a four finger pocket, then some big moves to gain the jugs on the lip before a large move up to the break.

Phillip Booth

Sit start as for "Blue Alien" heading left to a large pocket and a sharp crimp with a thumb catch. Make some difficult moves to gain the large left hand pocket on the lip before heading to the break.

Byron Glover

FA: Byron Glover, 26 May 2012

Sit start matched on a right facing under cling. Make some difficult moves to gain the two shallow pockets on the lip heading slightly left to the break. [Note that the right jug pocket in "Lektra Ice" is off]

Sit start matched on a right facing under cling. Move left to some shallow pockets in the roof before some hard moves to gain the large pocket on the lip. Finish in the break.

Leah Dempsey Chris Beers

A short side pull problem 5m right of Lektra Ice.

The next bunch of problems are located to the right of the Main Cave.

A very awkward start to a much easier but high wall finish. Grade still to be confirmed..

Hard undercling start to a good left jug then a couple of small incut crimps to a high finish.

10m further along the cliff from 'Undercling Two'

Sit start at the back of the little cave matched on a small hold at the start of the flake feature. Follow this and finish matched in jug on the face above.

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 17 Oct 2021

Another 20m along the cliff from 'Baby Shacks'

Sit start with hands matched in the scope and up the good holds to the right. Finished with matched hands on top ledge.

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 17 Oct 2021

Sit start with left hand on low pinch/edge and right hand in side-pull crack.

Climb up using the flake crack only and finish at the second break.

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 12 Dec

Sit start with left hand on low undercling and right hand on scope side-pull. Head up and finish matched on first big break.

Phillip Booth

FA: Phillip Booth, 12 Dec

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