Help

Oatley Park

9

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Very pleasant easy trad climbing in a scenic location perched above the Georges River.

© (nmonteith)

Description

Very pleasant easy trad climbing in a scenic location perched above the Georges River. An area that has a lot of rock, but unfortunately not a lot that is climbable.

All of the listed routes are located below Webster's lookout and are marked with a white square. All have top rope options, often a single mature carrot and nearby trees.

All routes described left to right (facing the cliff). Head down just right of lookout (looking out) to find climbs on left. FixedFirmament, GanbaGanba and HeaveHo are lowest down the Hill, easiest way down is below EagerBeavers.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

To get to the crag, find 'Oatley Park' in the street directory, and follow the one way circuit (Christensen Drive) until you find Webster 'Lookout' (signposted). Limited parking at lookout. All of the listed routes are located below this lookout.

© (nmonteith)

History

History timeline chart

Climbs described, photographed and given names during 2021 lockdown by TomBes.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Left most climb. Up short featured face on left side of block. 1 rusty carrot for Belay. walk off possible. Easiest climb here.

Face up right side of block. 1 rusty carrot for Belay. walk off possible.

Starts at white square left of Bahs Crack. Head up face, past two rusty old pitons (clip at your peril) and over somewhat spicy roof to finish. Two rusty carrots up top but can extend anchor to tree next to railing with a bunch of long slings.

Up juicy hand crack between Crustcrust and Dumbpump. Stay off right face and get upon the roof crack. Belay off tree as for Dumbpump.

FA: Tom Bes

Up horizontal breaks on face to the right of Bah's Crack. Great moves. Belay off big tree next to railings.

Up left side of big cave and keep heading up. Old rusty carrot and two new ones on top for belay (although one had too big a head for any of my bolts plates to fit.)

Scramble down the cliff face below other climbs but still below lookout. Up corner using wide crack and face. Continue up left face. Belay off big gum tree left of Xanthorea and directly below Armburster.

Around 15m further right from Fixed Firmament. Mid wall, up seam and breaks to ledge with old stump. Squeeze up between blocks to tree belay. Old carrots. Bit loose, lots of funnelwebs. Could go on gear?

4m right of GanbaGanba. Up the Arete to gain cave. mantle up top block (crux). A few old carrots on the way up, bring bolt plates if you want to trust them. Single rusty carrot up top but good tree not far on right (top of GanbaGanba) can be used in an anchor.

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Oatley Park.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文