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Lugarno

18

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Description

Absolute roadside cragging! A generally slabby and unfashionable cliff with a fair selection of mid to hard grade routes. Some of these routes were retro-chipped in the 90s. Most routes are now covered in dirt and lichen . Be VERY CAREFUL not to drop rocks onto the road which is literally centimeters from the crag. Routes described right to left facing wall.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

To get to the crag, drive south down Forest Rd, 'Lugarno', and stop about 200m from its end. The cliff is located on the right hand side of the road (watch out for cars). For access to top of cliff park at the very end of Lugarno parade. Then head down short track to the right and cross over bike track. Keep going and trend left through bush to navigate past small cliff, another 20m or so of bush bashing gets you to the top of Kim's moon route.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

(Formerly the aid line in the top cave) Start off ledge and interestingly establish yourself above the bulge to a rising traverse and single bolt anchor at the lip of the roof. Back drop a couple of bolts to clean.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 4 Dec

Project, possibly set by Kim Carrigan, rebolted in 2019. Chipped. DRBB

Short offwidth in between Giles and Kim's moon project. Start above bush. Pretty good, no cheater holds. Too wide for hand stacks. Can bump a #6 cam the whole way up. Rap off bolts either side. Tom Bes FA

FA: Tom Bes

FA: Tom Bes & Jake Delaney, 28 Oct

Start below the right hand arete of the main wall. "A prominent nose, a bit thin on top.".

Start left of G. (Rebolted DEC 2019)

Start: Left of R. Up tending right (4 BRs).

Offwidth in the middle of the main wall. Hand/fist for days with some ok feet thrown in. Top out to the left of overhanging block. Sling around tree back and to right for rapping off. Placed 09/2021. Tom Bes

FA: Tom Bes, 2021

FA: Tom Bes & Jake Delaney, 28 Oct

2 stainless carrots and 1 rusty one on way up. Can rap off sling around tree to the right of flat boulder on top.

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