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Bluebell Mostly Sport climbing 29 routes in crag

29
AU
1113151719212325

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Description

A mighty little crag housing some steep Sydney classics. Sandstone, easy access, snakes and ladders, there is much here to keep a smile on your dial. The cliff was discovered by Alan Smith but it was Dave Barnes who did the work in the early 1990's. His routes include 'Gate Keeper' (23) the mega classic, 'Ruthless Babe' (22), 'Bitch'n' (23), 'Welcome to the Body Shop' (21), 'Meltdown' (19) and 'Sparky' (16). Other climbers filled in the gaps and what is left is a dozen pumpy numbers. Beware of the summer snakes in the break of Bitch'n and mindful of the neighbors at the cliff top, it's their backyard.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

To get there, find 'Bluebell' Rd, Heathcote, and park at the end. Hop the gate onto the fire trail and follow it around to the left (behind the houses). The crag is located directly below these houses - continue walking for 50m until you are level with a wooden retaining wall of the last house. Scramble directly downhill on a non-obvious track starting with a dirt slope. This will take you down to the base of the cliff.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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1
22 ★ Xanthorrhoea Sport 6m, 2

Right line on grey slab.

FA: nathanual hebbard

Set: Jeff Crass, 2015

2
18 ★ Jeff's Mega Slab Sport 6m, 2

On first wall you walk past, up the middle of the grey slab.

FA: Jeff Crass, 5 Aug 2015

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3
11 ★ Duncan Sport 7m, 2

Start left of small corner. Up over a small bulge and veer to the right. 2 RB to Lower Offs. (Can start on right and climb up to 2nd bolt, easier but less pro).

FA: bundy, 2006

4
18 ★ Zara Sport 7m, 1

Start 2m right of 'Anika'. 1 high RB (stick clip) to shared lower off with 'Anika'. A hold has broken on the start which has raised the grade from 14.

FA: bundy, 2006

5
18 ★ Anika Sport 8m, 2

Warning Flora and Fauna: Brown snake

The left most route with two ring bolts. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower offs.

FA: bundy, 2006

6
16 Nathan ((Link-up) Sport 9m, 4

The girdle traverse route. Start at 'Anika' and move across and up bast bolts on Zara and Duncan to finish on anchors as for Duncan.

FA: bundy, 2006

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7
17 ★ Trust Me I Used Araldite Sport 7m, 2

Rebolted with real glue. A wall past a few steep moves. Go left to shared lower off with Travolta.

8
21 ★ Travolta Sport 8m, 2

Up Al's Nightmare and finish right with a big move to flake (jug further right on Trust me I used Araldite is definitely off). Shared loweroff with Trust me etc

FA: Michael Law, 2015

9
Al's Nightmare Sport 8m, 3

One really long move up the top. Although this has two ticks on this website some people reckon this is impossible. Carrots bolts.

Set: Al

10
18 ★ Heathcote Homo Sport 10m, 3

Start 3m right of SC. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move out left to gain anchors shared with Screaming Cockatoos.

FA: Bundy, 2008

11
18 ★ Screaming Cockatoos Sport 10m, 3

Shared start with Sparky, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts to shared lower off with HH. Reachy at the top.

FA: Shano, 1992

12
16 ★ Sparky Sport 10m, 3

Warning Flora and Fauna: Common Brown snake(?)

Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 rings. 'Fantastic' Climbing. New Lower offs installed.

FA: David Barnes, 1992

13
19 ★ Meltdown Sport 10m, 4

Nice climbing with some big reaches Shared Lower Off with Sparky.

14
22 ★★ 97% McDougall Free Sport 12m, 4

The direct line just left of 'Meltdown'. Go direct all the way. Stay out of out of the corner at the start, and stay direct at the hard finish. Only 20 if you start up 'Meltdown'.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

15
21 ★★ Welcome to the Body Shop Sport 12m, 5

Best 21 in Sydney. Nice and pumpy on big holds. Rebolted 2008

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

16
23 ★★ Bitch'n Sport 12m, 5

Start 2 m right of the little tree, and just left of a block. Nice and 'Steep', Delicate over the bulge and then get on trucken to the end. Move L to anchors as for Ruthless Babe. Rebolted 14/07/2015.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1993

17
24 ★ Ape Index Sport 10m, 6

Start 1m left of Bitch'n, up to huge dyno off a pocket. Might be tough for 24 if you have fat fingers.

FFA: SS

FA: Michael Law, 2015

18
23 ★★★ Bundy in a Bottle Shop (Link-up) Sport 18m, 7

Linkup Start as for 'Ruthless Babe', then side pull out to clip RB on right. Straight up from here, delicate traverse into Bitch'n do the crux on Bitch'n. Then move up and to the right past another RB. Straight up above last RB and finish sportingly to new anchors on Body Shop. A Pumper !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

19
23 ★★★ Ruthless Babe Sport 12m, 5

Mega. Start 2m L of Bitchin

FA: David Barnes, 1992

20
23 ★★ Gatekeeper (Link-up) Sport 15m, 5

Linkup. Climb up RB past the 1st 2 bolts. Then great hand traverse under the roof. Finish up DBoM.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1992

21
23/24 ★★★ Better at Bluebell (Link-up) Sport 16m, 8

Worthwhile link up taking in some of the best real estate at bluebell. Start for Ruthless babe to rooflet and head left as for Gatekeeper, keep trucking and finish at the anchors of Better at Bargo.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 11 Feb

22
23 ★★ Ruthless Shop (Link-up) Sport 16m, 8

Another linkup. Real Estate is precious at the Bell. Start up RB and do the crux thru the roof. Stand up and clip the next ring with a long sling, then great balancey moves across the head wall to the anchors on WttBS.

FA: Its a Link Up, 2000

23
26 ★★★ Guerilla Radio (Link-up) Sport 16m, 10

Start up DBOM and do crux, Traverse on slopey break, clip 5th bolt of Gatekeeper and do Crux, traverse right and do top crux for Ruthless Babe. traverse into bolts for Bundy in a bottle shop and finish on anchors for welcome to the body shop.

Basically links all the best and hardest routes at blue bell in a rising traverse, left to right!

FA: Linkup., 2008

24
24/25 ★★ Darling Buds of Mayhem Sport 15m, 5

Recently rebolted on nice shiney U's. A Sydney Classic on great rock. Start about 3m L of the little tree. Head up right thru scoop, if you traverse 1m right under the scoop in the break and up from undercling give yourself 24 (if originally finished up little corner, but now heads further r on jugs thru roof as for Gatekeeper.

FA: Mikl, 1992

25
25 ★★ Better at Bargo Sport 15m, 6

Tried to get someone to bolt this for years, but no takers. Start as DBOM, climb thru the crux. Then directly up past 3 new RB's and thru the final roof to lower off.

FA: Damien Boorman & Jason Lammers, 28 Aug 2020

26
23 ★ Divine Intervention Sport 15m, 6

Climb FK, past crux and 3 U bolt, then move right clipping 3 more carrots on the way. DBB Lower Off

27
23 ★★ Flying Kites Sport 15m, 5

Nice and Pumpy. Up arete past 5 U bolts, then move right to shared lower offs.

FA: G Morton, 2000

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28
24 ★★ Heel and Toe Polka Sport 15m, 5

Climb FK to 3rd bolt and then big move left and clip U bolt, then up and thru roof to lower off. Plenty of heel hooking and toe locks.

FA: Bundy, 2006

29
18 Lobotomised Trad 15m

There are a few random bolts up there, looks a bit dirty tho.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1992

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21 ★★ Welcome to the Body Shop
23 ★★★ Ruthless Babe
26 ★★★ Guerilla Radio (Link-up)

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Phillip Booth at Bluebell - Bluebell-3.jpg

Bluebell - Barnesy on WTHBS 1992.jpg

Jason Lammers on ★★★ Ruthless Babe 23

David O'Donnell on ★★ Darling Buds of Mayhem 24/25

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