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Dead Mans Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 510
  • Aka: Dead Chinaman's Wall

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Summary

A couple of good problems and an unbeatable 1min approach walk.

© (bundybear)

Description

A small area featuring a couple of quality problems such as 'Fish Food' (V7), 'In God We Trust' (V5) and 'Statement' (V8).

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Park on Menali Road just before the hairpin bend where a gate is visible. Cross the road, walk past the gate and the 'Fish Food' boulder will appear. 1 minute access.

© (bundybear)

History

History timeline chart

The crag was initially developed by Paul Westwood. It was named after an old bedraggled man of asian appearance who appeared at the crag wearing no shoes and who looked like he had been walking for a very long time.

Climbers later found out that the man had drowned in the nearby river in an apparent suicide. One may speculate the man believed this was his best option when faced with deportation back to China.

The history is also written in the Sydney bouldering guide.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start matched on crimp, up to a jug and then right.

Up some sharp vertical holds.

Squeeze yourself up the wide crack

Up the arete directly right of the gully.

Start 1m right of 'Cornered'.

?

First boulder to appear after passing the gates.

Up blunt arete.

Low start on a pocket and an edge.

Wide start on slopey LH sidepull and RH slot. Dyno to jug.

Tyrone Clements Dylan Hill

Left hand in the right hand pocket of Fish Food, right hand on the small 2 finger pocket further right. Deadpoint/dyno up and left to the good jugs. 7 or 8 maybe?

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 13 May 2023

Pull on to the crimp and then jump.

Walk another 30m through the bush to find the second boulder.

Up the blunt arete.

Start as for Road to Nowhere and move left to join Going Home blunt arete via big shouldery move.

Start from a LH sidepull, then beautifully and commit-tingly up and to the right (same top out as for 'Statement'.

Start as for IGWT on right side of orange blobby thing, then move left and up to crimps. Save some gas for the big move at the end.

Tyrone Clements

Stephen Rawls

Start same as IGWT, climb straight up between Statement and IGWT.

FA: Sam Louie, 24 Jul 2021

Start at underclings on the orange blob. Powerful moves up the wall.

Mauricio Chino

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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Sun 21 May
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