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Camp Wanawong

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Summary

Fun west facing wall right near some great swimming.

Description

Compact orange sandstone wall, just west of Camp Wanawong (a private Christian camp). This cliff is used as a kids absquealing area occasionally. Rebolting in mid 2015 has brought this crag into modern times.

Access issues

Keep a very low profile and never walk around on the top of the cliff. The land above (and maybe the cliffs themselves?) is on private property.

Approach

Approach by walking upstream on the eastern side of Loftus Creek following walking tracks.

Ethic

Any bolts added here should be low profile.

History

History timeline chart

History is a mystery. Old rusty carrots (80s) are on a few walls and belay bolts are along the top. Glen Short rebolted and possibly added some new routes here (90s??)

Routes

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Grade Route

Couple of bolts up left side of wall. Looks ok.

Black crimpy face with three old carrot bolts.

Short crack to start, then up seam crack then nice pumpy face to loweroff just left of grasstree. Two RBs and one FH in the middle.

Crag classic. Straight up the middle of the orange wall with a giant leap to get to the first hold. Anchors just right of grasstree. 4 RBs.

Jump start as for Two Bolts Too Many and at first break traverse right then straight up wall. Finish left to anchors on Two Bolts To Many. The original route wandered further right and shared sections of Wobblebong on trad.

Great easy route climbing the subtle right arete of the wall. Stem up tree on far side of crag until you can reach rock shelf. Up and left on good holds to airy finish and anchor.

FA: Heath Black & Stephen Monteith, 22 Aug 2015

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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Thu 13 Apr
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