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The Wing Cave

Access: Access Issues

Wing Cave is now registered under the Aboriginal heritage number: 52-2-4557

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Created 3 years ago
39

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Description

Steep cave climbing with a surprising amount of top outs.

Access issues

Bouldering is under threat in the Sutherland Shire area due to crossover between aboriginal cave sites and bouldering areas. Please don't leave mattresses in the cave and brush off chalk. Keep a low profile in general.

Approach

Park in Treloar Place, Menai at the first gated fire trail which leads down the hill - not the one next to the scout hall! Follow the fire trail down to the creek, then follow the creek to the right (downstream) on the opposite side. There is a path that leads you in to the left end of the cave.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start left of 'Pussy Whipped' on the good slot. Head straight up and top out.

Phillip Booth

Sit start below the rooflet on right facing horn. Don't forget to top out!

Same start for Pussy Whipped but head right out the roof.

Start on the obvious flake/ledge. Move out via big crimpy moves to top out.

Start low on the obvious crimp, then pull straight out the roof.

Left to right traverse keeping below the mantle.

Starts on the lower break in Pussy Whipped then jug and heel your way to finish on the last hold of Framed.

Climb 'Super Whipped' but stay below the top ledge and continue into 'For The Love Traverse'. Top out above last hold of 'Framed'. Grade needs confirmation: could be V6?

Off the edge move right to the fin, undercling like a demon, then desperately slap out the slopey edges.

Sage G.

FA: Tom Farrell, 2011

From the jug (3m right of fern), go out to a slot then traverse right on slopers to finish on the furthest good sloper.

From the jug above "M.S.", undercling out to the slopers and finish as for Seeping Slit.

From the jug on the back wall, come out to the slopey lip, then press, press, press through the slopers and the short corner.

From the flakes under the roof, make a big move to the slopes and another big move to the ledge.

Phillip Booth | Tyrone Clements | Mauricio Chino

Start on the slopey lip at the base of the thin seam, power straight up.

Off the big sloper on the lip, slap straight up.

David M

From the fractured slopey lip, straight up.

From the low edge, move up and mantle. The shorter you are, the easier it is!

Tackle the bulge left of "Korn" finishing over left.

Climb Porn, but finish way up high and right on the jug. Let the old chalk guide you

FA: Tom Farrell, 2011

Start on the shield, up to a crimp then massive dyno to the jug.

FA: Tom Farrell, 16 Jan 2016

Sit start on the sidepull/undercling. Low slabby band of rock is out for feet. Follow the obvious weakness through the roof to finish on the ledge out near the point.

David M

Start on the left side of the shield where 'The Yerk' begins and traverse along the finger rails through 'Weak Ape Test Zone' all the way to the flat hold by the next vertical weakness in the rock.

Grade needs confirmation in good conditions.

FA: Paul 'Punk' Westwood

FA: Paul 'Punk' Westwood

"TBH thought it was harder than Groove Terminator which got V11 but didn't think it would get 8A in the UK so gave it V10 instead." - Jon

FA: Jon Fullwood, 2003

Start on the bunch of slopey crimps above the broken flake. Make a move up, then a huge move right to a very enjoyable and juggy finish.

Stand start at the bottom of the flake on the diagonal undercling, then tackle the very steep terrain to the obvious shelf.

Same as Flapping around but finish to the right.

An undercling nasty. Pull on the crap head high underclings and try and go up. If you get your feet off the ground, you're almost there.

Start low on the undercling right of the orange streak. A slopey traverse rightwards leads into Watch Your Back Jack.

From the low slopey break,make a big move straight up avoiding both the wall on the right and cracking your back on the boulders of death.

Blocs outside the cave.

Sit on the ledge holding the large jug. Pull into the roof to start, ledge is out for feet. Climb backwards out the prow and top out over the lip.

Cool little dyno with a scary landing! Left of Danger Zone.

FA: Byron Glover, 7 Jan 2013

Start on two low holds in the roof and climb sidepulls to a high finish.

FA: Byron Glover, 7 Jan 2013

Left side of the crack from a crouch.

Right side of the crack from a sit.

Start on the undercling at the back of the prow. Ledge is in.

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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