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Alfords Point Main Area

Rock: Loose block

Loose block on Viva la Papa just below and to the left of second bolt. It has chalk on it and looks like a hold.

See warning details and discuss

Created 18 days ago

Seasonality

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Description

A major Shire destination crag, with a heap of quality sport routes now that everything has been retrobolted. Great on a cold winter's morning or hot summer's afternoon.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Park at the end of Maxwell Close, Illawong - note it is a narrow street, watch for traffic congestion. Walk down the footpath towards the main road, cross the grassy field on right and head down a worn path running North and along the top of the cliff line. After 150 meters, when you see the large highway traffic sign through the trees on left head right and down a small gully and turn left to reach the start of the crag line running North. Do NOT be tempted by well formed ribbon marked paths that run down towards the bay!

Alternate access if you are not sure - follow the cycle way on the main road then hop through the fence at the large traffic sign.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: 30m left of main wall. 2 BRs to lower off. Not as hard as it looks.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

Black slab 10m R of Green Frogs and Liver, and 20m left of main wall. Up to move through bulge then easily to lower off, shared with Runnel Wall.

FA: unknown

Start 2m R of Blackened Slab. Step up R on ledge then up to big ledge. Left to nose and up to shared lower-off. Set up for a practice belay in the middle off 2 rings.

FA: Michael Law, 2014

Start 1m left of MacGuyer, up. Nice but tiny. Soloed then bolted.

FFA: Michael Law, 2015

Start as for McGuyver and up, move left to single bolt lower off for Iota. Soloed then bolted.

FA: Michael Law, 2015

Start on left side of short orange wall. Traverse right wards along the break then up the big flake. Continue to move right to anchors below big tree.

FA: Jason & Wade Stewart, 26 Oct 2014

As per M, but continue to traverse along the break for another bolt then up the tricky moves on NA.

FA: Wade Stewart & Jason Lammers, 26 Oct 2014

Start: Below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. 3 Ubolts to shared lower off with M

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor.

FA: David Barnes, 1993

Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake. Also makes quite a nice trad route, throw a few extra cams in to protect the start.

FA: Unknown, 2000

2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless.

Don't dodge the crux if you want the full tick - it goes!

FA: Unknown

Burly start right of SM, with a bit of a move to start.

FA: Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, Jan 2013

Start 2m R of Cherry. Stick clip bolt then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS. Death bolt replaced 17/3/2020.

FA: Doug Smith, 1998

Start: small corner at right end of wall, up and leftwards up scooped arete to double rings. 5 rings.

FA: Shae Constantine, 1994

Traverses right from the Fabulous Muppet show top anchors. Top out from top of triangle roof. A bit convoluted but would be great multi pitch practice on Trad gear. Take a No. 3 cam and one or two micro cams. Check top is clean, covered in leaves when I did it. You can pull your gear from above.

FFA: Leo Stanners, 1 Mar 2018

FA: Leo Stanners, 1 Mar 2018

Roof in cave up and right of FMS. Small biner recommended for 2nd bolt.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 7 May

Pumpy! Start just right of Mad Bolter and traverse left crossing MB at the 3rd bolt. Finishes with hands on top at the crack, backjump to clean.

Set by Jeff Crass, 2014

Corner and arete 4m L of 4moves3bolts

FA: Erwin Gamboa, 24 Nov 2014

Easy once you find the correct holds, hard to onsight though. Climb the crack and wall just R of Bumbly's First, step left to shared lower-off.

FA: Michael Law, 2016

18m R of main wall area, 2m R of a short crack. Up to horizontal and R to Ubolt. Up to big ledge and up wall easily behind.

FA: Michael Law, 19 Jun 2014

Start 2m R of 4 moves 3 bolts. Up, up, and away. Bouldery.

FA: Michael Law, 2014

Great trad climbing, plugging cams into Arapiles style rock. 20m right of the main wall on an orange section. Long reach to first break and up to ledge and easy wall behind. Good cams (3 small ones to start, then small to hand size), someone has drilled holes in all the wrong places also.

FA: Michael Law, 9 May 2014

3m R of Breaking Good in middle of wall, 3m L of seam (Gushing Knees). Step off short persons cheater rock on first ledge and up and head left. Slight runout to the anchor.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 28 Dec 2015

Start 25m R of main wall, some 5m R of the smooth orange section (Breaking Good) at a thin seam, and about 2m R of a corgi-sized boulder sitting on the ledge. Marked gK. May have been an old top-rope route.

FA: Jeff Crass, 18 May 2014

Start 1.5 m R of Gushing Knees. Share a hold with Necropolis Kidney then up and left to share anchors with Gushing Knees. One large foothold has broken off just below the 2nd RB making the ascent more difficult.

FA: Jeff Crass, 19 Jun 2014

About 30m R of the Main Wall is a smooth wall. Scramble up onto the ledge and find line of RBs and old carrots 2m R of a painted "K" on the wall. Move slightly right to lower off (shared with VLP).

Tricky slab 2m R of NK and 3m L of an orange left-facing corner (VC), then super orange stone and left to laybacks. 4 rings. Share loweroff with NK.

Start 1m R of Necropolis Kidney and 2m left of the corner (Vintage Cuvee). Up and around roof, bridging into Vintage Cuvee for a move. Reachy.

FA: Michael Law, 19 Jun 2014

About 35m R of the main wall at a left facing orange corner. Easy start and up into nice corner. Pop out of the corner and up the nice headwall. All new RB's in 2014.

Start just R of VC, follow the seam and holds on right then through bulge and seam. Classic Araplies style trad climbing on bomber rock. The top 4m was an old sport route on dangerous bolts. The new trad version was head-pointed (easy to toprope off Vintage Cuvee rings) to find gear including 2 good RPs in first seam, and a yellow and big Blue Camalot in the back of the cave before final bulge.

FA: Michael Law, 29 May 2014

A great pocket pulling crux. Start 3m R of Vintage Direct, up thin walls and pull roof. All Ubolts now

FA: Dave Barnes, 1994

12m R of Vintage Direct at tree. Easily to roof and heave yourself up and past lip to laybacky glory.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1984

Start as for Show Us Your Form. Step right to seam and up.

FA: Michael Law, 15 Jun 2014

Line starts 3m R of Show Us Your Form.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 9 May

Start as for GR and at the roof traverse across into WFH using the bolts from both. The drag through the draws is quite extensive by the end, and is best dealt with by unclipping the second draw of GR once you've clipped the third in the roof. There are options with how many draws you use.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 26 Mar 2016

2 fun boulders. Start up GMS, and move left at the break after the 3rd bolt - Up and thru the small roof to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 11 Jul 2014

Start 10m R of SUYF in cave. Up steeply left and on to the head wall. The first move is the crux, unless you start about 1.5m right of the first bolt - which lops off at least a grade.

Start 5m R of GMS in cave. Hard start (left of the first bolt) and up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RB's in the roof, and then up the pumpy headwall.

Up RS to the Mikl flake (use extended draw or sling here) and traverse right across the lip of the roof to a big move on big holds to easy finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, 30 Nov 2014

Steep start with some hard moves thru the V - then easy to the top.

FA: Wade Stewart, Jason Lammers & Viona Young, 9 Nov 2014

Start 10m R of RS at the right side of roofs. 6 Ubolts to lower off.

Clip first bolt on 'SJ' then up rightwards thru the bulges.

FA: Jason Lammers, 9 Nov 2014

Start at right end of cave, at right side of small trees sitting against the rock, 4m R of Sideline Jack. Up. Another nice warmup.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2014

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