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Summary

Park opposite No.6 Lomandra Pl, Alfords Pt. Walk down the hill

Description

An impressive cave with some ultra hard projects, a couple of mid grade sport routes and one trad roof crack. The cliff faces south-west and is in the shade for almost all of the day.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Two FHs. Lower-off U bolt is well back from edge of cliff on boulder. not worth the stars

FA: Neil Monteith, 20 Sep 2014

Fun steep route on far left end of cave with very high first bolt. Stick-clip it! Clipping the anchors is probably the crux, especially if you are short.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

Start as for UotO, then up and right past a couple more bolts to a bouldery finish.

Set: Jason Lammers

FA: cameron taylor, 2019

Starts on left side of crag outside the cave. Straight up to double UBs. Excellent. Ignore the first bolt. And Stick clip second

FA: Cameron Taylor, 2009

Start as for bucks party. Move right through roof and up headwall. Knee pad or tee shirt for the right knee is recommended.. very good and very hard.. the right start is the "To Suit" project

Set: Cameron Taylor, 2009

FA: Jason Green, 2019

closed project

Start in back of cave on small ledge. Climb roof to big ledge then Continue traversing left and finish out of sight of belayer on small vegetated ledge on far left.

FA: Neil Monteith, 20 Sep 2014

Start as for Bat Hang for 4 bolts then go right and out the ceiling to single U-bolt and old homemade hanger in middle of roof. Grade needs confirmation.

Set: Neil Monteith, 19 Sep 2014

FA: Scott Pritchard, 21 Oct 2014

A futuristic bolted project. Pocketed roof flake.

Set: Unknown, 2009

Roof crack splitter that starts as thin hands and ends with overhung wide trench. Well protected by cams from #0.75 Camalot to to #4 Camalot.

FA: (Aided) Enmoore Lin, 4 Aug 2014

FFA: Neil Monteith, 19 Sep 2014

Mini (impossible?) bolted project. Starts 5m right of Suburban Realty.

Set: 2009

Insanely hard . But possible. Batman start

Set: Cameron Taylor, 2009

Information needed

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