Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
18 | ★ Egg Rings
Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off. Easy top out and set up an abseil on the rings 2m back | 10m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★★ B
3 rusty carrots | 12m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
16 | ★ Skulduggery
Just left of cave for GW. Over bulge and up big crack | 9m | Bangor West | ||
15 | ★★ Passive
Flared crack left of Hobbit Nose, can be done entirely on hexes and a few wires, classic! Easier with the tree to start. FA: Mikl Law Set: Michael Law | 10m | Bangor West | ||
19 | ★★ Fixed Steps
Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs Start: On rounded arete FA: Steve Turcsanyi | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
16 | Head Butte
| 6m | Bangor West | ||
17 | ★★ The Whorl
Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015. FA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
15 | ★★ Andrew's Bulge
Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic FA: Peter Faill | 8m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
21 | ★ End of the Decade
Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete. | 11m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
15 | ★★ Passive
Flared crack left of Hobbit Nose, can be done entirely on hexes and a few wires, classic! Easier with the tree to start. FA: Mikl Law Set: Michael Law | 10m | Bangor West | ||
16 | ★ Dorothy May
Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start off cairn into roof then up using handlebar hold then up the juggy arête. 3 ringbolts then right at top to shared anchor with The Whorl. FA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
13 | ★ Chicanery Crack
A great beginner trad lead with plenty of bomber gear and good stances for placing. You can even practice your offwidth chicken arm and leg jamming at half height. The crack located just to the left of Buzz Boys Beat. Shares anchors with Buzz Boys Beat. If you're tall enough you can reach them from the ledge. | 8m | Bangor West | ||
14 | ★ Get Tracked
Start: Starts at the crack 0.5m left of 'Andrew's Bulge'. | 11m | Bangor West | ||
10 | ★ Unknown on block left
| 8m | Bangor West | ||
15 | Lean Too
Start: A deep crack approximately 1m left of "Dorothy May" The first 4m direct looks 20 I reckon, probably starts on the jugs of Reno | 15m | Bangor West | ||
19 | ★ Bangor Tiger
RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is. | 10m | Bangor West | ||
17 | ★★ Reno
start 1m L of Dorothy May. Jump from boulder to jug just right of crack (Lean Too) and up. 3 rings and lower-off. Previoulsy bolted on coach screws, rebolted Nov 2016 FA: Viona Young | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
10 | Side Tracked
Start: 0.5m left of GT, Seam (wires)and thread | 10m | Bangor West | ||
17 | ★ Grotto Crack
Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing. | 9m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Sandstorm
Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start and hard top out to rings well back Set: Michael Law FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
Somebody Solo'd Your Project | 7m | Bangor West | |||
20 | ★ Shire Riot
The line of very shiny rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. tenuous top-out then set up an abseil off rings 2m back and left to clean | 10m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
19 | ★ Buzz Boys Beat
Wall 1m Left of Grotto Crack, hard if you don't use the crack on the left at the 2nd U bolt. Lower off around to left. Beware the old garden seat at the top of this route from which people may throw down rocks and rubbish. | 9m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
Somebody Solo'd Your Project | 7m | Bangor West | |||
20 | ★ The Shire Republic
Great sustained wall climbing up sloping dishes. Tricky rounded top out, or cheat and lower-off the top anchors. Rebolted August 2015. | 12m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
11 | ★★ In Depth
Corner crack just left of ALH. | 10m | Bangor West | ||
18 | ★ Zip
Tricky! Start by climbing directly up arete and continue up past 3 Ubolts to lower off. | 8m | Bangor West | ||
18 | ★ Active
Crack R of Hobbit Nose with a blank section up high. Take cams FA: Jeffrey Crass | 10m | Bangor West | ||
10 | Tilba Tilba
On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag. Mantle, then up. No pro. | 8m | Bangor West | ||
12 | Rainman
Ok trad gear if you look including small cams and a little wire in the 2 vertical cracks, and big cams out left. Start: The ramp 5m left (facing cliff) of the descent gully. Out left and up. easy to set up top-ropes. | 6m | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Python Direct
On the right-facing wall just left of In Depth corner. Directly up middle of this little wall, shares anchors with Python. Not exactly a sport route when there is one carrot 4m up . Really runout easy to deck. Dare Devil sports climb. | 10m, 1 | Bangor West | ||
17 | ★ Unzip
Boulder problem start to Zip from under roof | 10m | Bangor West | ||
18 | ★ Voodoo Traverse
Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro. | 15m | Bangor West | ||
17 | ★★ Grandma's Wheelchair Direct
As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave to give it a punchy and fun start. | 10m | Bangor West | ||
18 | ★ NFM
Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two more Ubolts to lower-off. Harder first moves then easy top. Start: 5m left of R, just under arete. | 8m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
17 | ★ Python
On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right. | 8m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
12 | Mike's Photogenic Crack
Corner crack left of ZT. Bouldery start then easy. FA: Mike Patterson | 10m | Bangor West | ||
18 | Billabong
Start on other side of block near gully. one carrot | 5m, 1 | Bangor West | ||
22 | ★★ Neil's Roof
Start as for Lucky's Roof then take the right leading bolts direct through the roof as for Felix (avoiding the major roof flake), then climb the seam crack up the headwall just right of Felix to shared single bolt lower-off. The headwall is a bit bold with the bolt spacing. FA: Heath Black | 10m, 5 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Sports Injury Clinic
1m L of MPC. 2ubolts FA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
15 | ★ Ali
| 5m | Bangor West | ||
17 | Dollar Drinks
Left most route, facing the cliff. A bit lame, but still fun. Great newbie climb. Beware of soft and lose sandstone. Much deterioration on this climb. | 8m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
22 | ★ Pyromaniac Direct Start
Start right of the ring. | 9m | Bangor West | ||
16 | ★ Grandma's Wheelchair
Past Python, on LHS of cave. Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted. FA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
15 | Slobbery Dog
| 6m | Bangor West | ||
14 | ★ Nananapper
Start 1.5m left of Whippersnapper in the squeeze, straight up wall to last bolt of Nana in the dark and on to anchors. FA: Michael Law | 9m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
24 | ★ Starfish
Start about 2m L of the corner (Slobbery Dog) and up then big move left. Lungey stuff. FA: Michael Law | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Pyromaniac
Start well left of bolt then right to lower off. Start: Starts 3m left of KK. FA: Matt Portman | 9m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
14 | ★ Get Walking
Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up. | 9m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
11 | Christmas Nuts
1m left of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney. | 10m | Bangor West | ||
12 | Rockclimber's Waltz
| 7m | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Flash as a rat
Start in corner 3m L of Skullduggery, up and right then up rounded buttress finishing on right. Reachy and rounded. Recently rebolted. There is a common variant of this route that uses the same bolts, but involves traversing to the right of the bulge towards Skullduggery between the first and second clip, then heading to the top on good holds. This skips the crux of the main route and changes the grade to a 16 or 17. FA: Michael Law | 12m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
1987 | |||||
17 | ★ Pitted Arete
Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete. FA: S turcanyi, 1987 | 10m | Bangor West | ||
21 | ★ Mars Apple
Killer start up to first Ring Bolt. Can be done as a mixed route. Start: 1m left of Pitted Arete Rebolted 2009 FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987 | 8m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
13 | ★ Zulu Trainer
Starts 1m left of Mars Apple. Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top. FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1987 | 10m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
1989 | |||||
21 | ★★ Tits and Bits
2m left of SIC. 2 rings, shared lower-off with Sports Injury Clinic. FA: peter farkas, 1989 | 10m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
1992 | |||||
20 | ★ Dynamic Winter
Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start to a good fist sized cam in break, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Next break is big so clip one of AB's bolts and finish on AB anchor. Maybe 16V2? FA: H. Wallace, 1992 | 10m | Bangor West | ||
21 | ★ Motivated Mob Confrontations
Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B FA: Keysar Trad, 1992 | 10m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
22 | ★★ Go Go Gadget Arms
The original Go Go Gadget route. Start as for Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix then use the better holds to the right to gain the rail and finish directly up. An easier alternative to the 2010 remix on the same line of bolts (might be a bit harder for shorter folk). Soloed by Jason Lammers before the bolts were in. Set: Hayden & Jason Lammers, 1992 FFA: Hayden, 1992 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
24 | ★★ Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix
Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start. Keep off the larger holds to the right to earn the grade. | 10m | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ A Loving Hole
Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack FA: H. Wallace, 1992 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
22 | ★★ Go Go Gadget Arms
The original Go Go Gadget route. Start as for Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix then use the better holds to the right to gain the rail and finish directly up. An easier alternative to the 2010 remix on the same line of bolts (might be a bit harder for shorter folk). Soloed by Jason Lammers before the bolts were in. Set: Hayden & Jason Lammers, 1992 FFA: Hayden, 1992 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
24 | ★★ Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix
Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start. Keep off the larger holds to the right to earn the grade. | 10m | Bangor West | ||
21 | ★ Death of a Xanthorrhoea
Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars. Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors. FA: H. Wallace, 1992 | 8m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
21 | ★ Killer's Kidneys
Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three Ubolts to shared lower-off with 'NFM'. Start from the ground (don't skip first few moves by standing on the block). FA: H. Wallace, 1992 | 8m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
23 | ★ My Girl
Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off. FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1992 | 10m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
2000 | |||||
V9 | ★★ Arête Problem
A square cut arête 80m right of 'The Whorl'. Surely someone has done the crack. FA: joe, 2000 | Bangor West | |||
2002 | |||||
13 | ★ Nana in the dark | 8m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
13 | ★ Whippersnapper
The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has 3 bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to righthand anchor (clip and go). FA: Luke, 2002 | 8m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
16 | ★ New Generation
From under the lip, up the line of rings to double rings. FA: Luke, 2002 | 10m, 5 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★★ Lucky's Roof
Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. 18 if you start on the cairn. Variant top out via the mantle (21). FA: Luke, 2002 | 5m, 5 | Bangor West | ||
2003 | |||||
V3 | ★★ Three Sides Traverse
(Anti-clockwise) traverse of three sides of the detached block downhill from the crag. Starts on left hand end of overhung most downhill face with gymnastic moves following hand traverse line. Round corner and continue along (uphill) along thin wall. Round the next corner, traverse short low overhung face to finish in cave. FA: N Clow, 2003 | 20m | Bangor West | ||
{US} V5 | ★★ Arachnology for Kids Traverse
From the corner/crack of In Depth (marked 'ALH') traverse right to the arete of Fixed Steps. V4/V5? Technical, very good. FA: NC, 2003 | 9m | Bangor West | ||
2009 | |||||
22 | ★★ End of the Century
Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor ! FA: Jason Lammers, 2009 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
2010 | |||||
24 | ★★ Go Go Gadget - 2010 Remix
Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start. Keep off the larger holds to the right to earn the grade. | 10m | Bangor West | ||
2011 | |||||
18 | ★ End of the Line
Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts. FA: T Meredith & D Burgess, 2011 | 12m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
2015 | |||||
22 | ★★ Felix
Start up Lucky's Roof to the 1st bolt then right to lip past 2 bolts (not on easy flake), then left to big flake and hard move up wall FA: Michael Law, 2015 | 10m, 5 | Bangor West | ||
19 | ★ Karins Loose Stool
Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms. FA: Mat Hutchins-Read, Aug 2015 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
2016 | |||||
21 | ★★ Marathon Man
Shortest stamina route in the Shire. Start up Zip then left along traverse line through roof and up. Right to Zip anchors or backjump (easier) FA: jeff Crass, 2016 | 12m, 7 | Bangor West | ||
23 | ★★ Another kind of rainbow
Pumpy fun. Start through roof as for Death of a Black Boy then left along lip and up to single U lower at top. FA: Mikl Law, 2016 | 10m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
2017 | |||||
19 | ★ Kick Start
Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack and nose on right to easy top out, good gear all the way (you can put a high cam in the protect the start). Double U anchor, best to abseil to avoid rope wear. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 10m | Bangor West | ||
16 | ★ Racy
Start on right, either hard boulder or jump off block to jugs and up R edge to lower off. FA: vanessa peterson, 2017 | 10m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Sandstorm
Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start and hard top out to rings well back Set: Michael Law FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Facy
Left of racy, hard start and up then R to shared lower off with Racy FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 10m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ glitter
Start about 1m L of Sandstorm by a little layback. Either hard straight up on crimps or (much nicer and easier) up left a move then right following pockets up to break (hand and fist sized cams). Up crack and tenuous slab finish straight above to rings well back. Good gear after start FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 11m | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Belly Bulge
Start 1m R of crack, up past 2 Ubolts then left to shared U and lower-off. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Bicycle wall
Start on ramp as for Rainman but veer right using pocket, hard move to break (hand and fist sized cams). Hard move left into crack and break then up easily. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 8m | Bangor West | ||
17 | ★★ The Drum
Start on left of crack and up to lower off. FA: vanessa Peterson, 2017 | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
10 | ★ Magic sparkle
Start on boulder 3m R of Belly Bulge, step on to lip of roof and up slab. FA: Lexi Law & Michael Law, 2017 | 10m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
22 | ★★ A pinch and a punch
Bolted line 2m L of Shire Republic. Funkies, pinches, underclings. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 12m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
21 | ★ Hobbit's Nose
Nose 3m L of A Pinch and a punch. Up and left at 2nd bolt to a tenuous finish. FA: Michael Law, 2017 | 10m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
22 | ★ A crimp and a crunch
Start 3m R of the thin crack (KS) at the base of the gully, 3m L of HN. Can stand on tree to clip first runner. Up desperate start, then hard move left through roof (right is right out) and up to slabby top out. Best to rap off the anchors as it will wear your rope a bit. FA: Patrick Burr, Apr 2017 | 10m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
2018 | |||||
17 | Pequeña Escalada (Tiny Climb)
Bouldery start with surprisingly tricky top out. Start on ground, not rock on the left. Unless you want to. FFA: Leo Stanners, 7 Apr 2018 | 5m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
19 | ★ Please Dont Piss Here
On the back of The Block, to the right of the 'PLEASE DONT PISS HERE' writing in chalk. 2 ring bolts to double u bolt belay. FFA: Leo Stanners, 25 Apr 2018 | 8m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
18 | Sleepy Snackdogs
Around the corner from Egg Rings. Grade due to the thin start. FA: Shauno & Ryan L, Jun 2018 | 7m | Bangor West | ||
10 | Mekong Buck's Party
The seeping right facing corner around the corner from ER. Twin cracks to Storm water drain. FA: Shauno & Ryan L, Jun 2018 | 7m | Bangor West | ||
19 | ★★ Please Don't Piss Here Either
To the right of Please Don't Piss Here, on the back of the The Block. And, as the disgruntled boulderer has written in chalk, don't pee here. FA: Leo Stanners, 17 Jun 2018 | 8m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
17 | Dollar Drinks
Left most route, facing the cliff. A bit lame, but still fun. Great newbie climb. Beware of soft and lose sandstone. Much deterioration on this climb. | 8m, 2 | Bangor West | ||
18 | ★ Sloth loves chunk
Up dirty looking crack to slopers. Committing finish. Set: 6 Nov 2018 FFA: 16 Nov 2018 | 8m, 5 | Bangor West | ||
20 | ★ Karate Paintball Dirt Bike Club
Up edges and block, then round left of roof and up. Use long slings or rap down to clean due to rope drag. Beware of soft and loose sandstone in cave under overhang at the finish. Several holds broken off on start making it much more difficult to get going. Set: Leo Stanners, 6 Nov 2018 FFA: Leo Stanners, 16 Nov 2018 | 9m, 6 | Bangor West |