Lost World





One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire, and shady for most of the day as it faces south. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small amount of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. Top-roping is very easy to setup, most routes you can reach over the edge to ring bolt anchors. This cliff requires traffic to stay clean - so get out there! Better guide and topos on:

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council:


To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (through a gate) to fire track behind houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) to a diagonal access lane, walk down the hillside (left) to the edge of the cliff. Locate a small corner about 20m west (R facing downhill) with a cairn atop, descend down ramps (Screaming Pretty is halfway down) and turn right at the base and walk 30m to main cliff.

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The section of cliff immediately at the base of the descent scramble down with a jumble of mossy boulders underneath. The landmark is the White Corner. This whole section of cliffs seeps for most of the year and is prime breeding ground for leeches.

Unknown, supposed to be 55m R (west) of Screaming Pretty with bolt pro.

FA: George Quine & Neil Johnston, 1985

Halfway down descent on East facing wall - belay on narrow vegetated ledge. Slight left trend up great rock then weird sloping moves to clip giant single bolt lower-off.

FA: George Quine & Steve Turcsanyi, 1987

Leftwards traverse finish to Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt

FA: George Quine & Steve Turcsanyi, 1986

ABout 6m left of Screaming Pretty at the base of the descent. Thin corner and roof with fiddly but bomber gear. funky topout. Seeps a bit but ok (there's a rock to stand on and keep your boots dry if the ledge is wet). a long nut key is very useful for placing gear off the ledge.

FA: mikl, 27 Jun 2014

30m left of the White Corner is the most impressive chunk of rock at Lost World. It's tall for Shire standards and has a couple of ringbolted classics. There is also an assortment of other unloved and weird routes on the edges. All these routes are suitable for top-roping, with good trees and ringbolts accessible from above.

Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.

About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to 'Dirt Trawler'. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.

Powerfully across the roof, then blast your way up the arete to finish on the same anchors as 'Dirt Trawler Left Variant'.

Set: Monty Curtis, 2010

FA: Damien Boorman, 16 Oct 2021

Start as for Fun and Destruction for 2m then step R up and through roof and up twin cracks to break. Finish up wicked seam above (keep off the Grass). The bolt on the lip may put a side load on the biner, thread a sling through the ring or use 2 draws. No problems to date though

FA: Michael Law, 2014

Start as for Fun and Destruction to fifth bolt then finish right and up the top 5m of Grass Direct. This was actually the original way it was done.

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009

Start: About a meter right of the chipped "PT" initial

FA: Neil Mahant, 1988

A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for Eudaimonia to 2nd bolt then traverse right under rooflet (#1 Camalot with long sling) then up ?? at its 4th and 5th bolt then right across Grass to finish at arete of Dirttrawler variant.

A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.

Start: A meter left of the chipped "PT"

FA: Neil Mahant, 1980

Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)

FA: Neil Mahant, 1984

Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.

Start: Start as for 'Superforce'.

FA: M Law, 2009

About 20m L of Soup or Force, scramble up onto ledge. Up and right arete of hanging block.

FA: Mikl Law, 2015

Easy start to delicate slab and pumpy jamming bulge. Clip second bolt on bulge with S/G or short draw and you don't need to clip the top dogging bolt. Shared anchor with BlockRockn (hidden flake at the back helps traverse).

FA: Patrick Burr, 26 Mar 2015

50m or so left of the Main Wall is this grey slab, with a couple of shallow corners on either end and a nice looking (blank) wall in the middle. The routes start off a vegetated shelf a few metres above ground level.

Corner 5m R of Hobbit Corner, fu8nky bridging

FA: Mikl Law

Shire trad classic. About 45m L of the Main Wall in a R-facing corner starting on a ledge 3m up (there are rungs 15m left below Funk Little Corner). Up past break to balance slab into corner and good gear, one hard move. Take some finger sized nuts and shallow cams, and a Green camalot for the final move.

FFA: Mikl Law, 2014

“It’s so evil and lemon scented” Long move to start then layback to break. Finish up tough wall with super sloping topout. Friction is your friend!

Set: Michael Law, 2015

FA: nathanual hebbard, 28 May 2021

Up wall, roof, and shallow corner 10m L of Hobbit Corner.

20m L of Hobbit Corner. wet after rain. Start on right.

FA: Mikl Law, 2015

The last bit of good rock, and quite an impressive cave with a prominent bolted corner with undercut start. This cave can seep quite heavily after rain. It is much faster to access this from the western end by scrambling down below the Bangor cliff.

Right side of cave 10m R of Ancestry. Follows roof flake horizontally to lip. Backjump to clean. Power, compression, and kimchi are required.

Set: Michael Law, 2007

FA: Lee Yoon Seok, 2019

Start as for Slap My Blues Away and at the anchors pull the lip and begin to trend slightly left. (to avoid drag while getting lowered off and working the route unclip last bolt before the anchors)

FA: nathanual hebbard, 5 Jun 2021

(link up) Endurance Test Piece! Start as for Slap My Blues Away and instead of pulling the lip keep traversing the entire length of the flake, finish up Family Ties. Long draws and slings help for rope drag.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 30 May 2021

Very steep. Start at right end of lower bolted flake in middle of cave. Long traverse left across horizontals, then through scoopy roof and up stemming corner.

FA: Monty Curtis, 15 Aug 2015

(link up) Start as for family Ties and once you are established on the flake features traverse right for a couple of bolts and finish up Bird Bath Blues. Can start up Ancestry for slightly softer variant.

FA: nathanual hebbard & Ryan Cocchietto, 7 Jun 2021

The direct start to Ancestory through the pocketed roof into the bizarre bell shaped scoop then straight up the technical stemming corner.

FFA: Monty Curtis, 8 Aug 2015

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Selected Guidebooks more

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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