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The Villas Cliffs

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Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

1st problem in the little cave next to the pipes. 'Excellent' and hard.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Tough start, then enjoyable up the slab past the big pocket. 'Escape' right.

A committing barndoory classic

Bad landing, powerful and classic!

Matti Puckridge

Pleasant.

Bad landing, committing and cute.

Good

Same start as Help, but move right of the arete and up.

Up the wall in front of the small tree

Link sit start of 'Help into Rock On'

Up the seam

Best easy problem at crag.

Up the shitty arete, bad landing and bad rock.

A nice short powerful, overhanging arete. Bad landing

Up the wall via a committing lock.

Start in break below rooflet, up and over, red rover.

If you're into that type of thing!

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