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Description

Nice cool spot for an summer arvo session. Faces east and catches the breeze.

Great place for beginners with some nice high warm ups with good landings.

Routes are described from right to left when facing the cliff line.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Park at the Bonnet Bay sign on Tudar Road and walk about 80m into the bush and follow The ledge walking track. After another 100m the cliffline is on the left.

Routes

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Grade Route

Depending where you drop down from the walking track to the base of the crag you might need to double back to find this one.

Sit start below the hole. Dyno from the hole to the sidepull out to the right.

bigboibeta

FA: Joe Hodgson

Sit start on big hold to the left of Jannali Dyno start, move up to side pull then top out.

Sit start, same as A, push left on side pulls and top out

Sit start, Left hand pocket, Right hand nice edge. Dead point to high edge the top out.

Sit start matched on crimp, then head for the pocket above the lip via the big hold. Head right along the lip using good pinches before heading straight up the slab using good holds on the horizontal break. Arete and right hand side of bloc are out!

FA: Scott Rowling, 20 Aug

Warning Rock:

Sit start using low right side pull and broken flake on the prow. From there slap your way up good holds on both sides of the prow before a funky mantle over the top

FA: Scott Rowling, 20 Aug

Tall, slightly overhung wall.

Sit start on sidepull/undercling. Big moves straight up to top out.

Marcus Lim

FA: Joe Hodgson

Sit start 2 metres right of Triple Bypass, and off the undercling, use the pocket to gain the break. Then traverse left to finish up triple bypass.

Stephen Rawls

FA: Joe Hodgson

The easier alternative to quadruple bypass, for those who can’t dyno! Start as QB, go to left pocket to reach nice holds, traverse left then go right hand in nice gaston to finish as QB and TB. V6ish?

FA: Tom oke, 30 Nov 2020

Sit start at obvious jug, move right and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 8 Jun 2020

Sit start right of WYWH. Head up the thin arete/tufa to top out. Despite the hollowness, the rock is solid. Mauricio Chino

FA: Patrick Reynolds, 4 Nov 2018

Obvious crag classic!

Sit start on the right side of the cave. Head left via some funkiness to top out up the ramp.

Ainhoa Martinez

Sit start at left of cave. Make your way out via underclings to join the ramp finish of Wish You Were Here. Back wall/ledge is in.

Sit start at left of cave. Head straight out to the face and then head right to finish up the ramp. Back wall/ledge is in.

Stephen Rawls Peter

FA: Joe Hodgson

Sit start at left of cave. Head out to the face and head up and left to top out as for Joe's Traverse. Formerly known as the "Unnamed Jannali 10"

Sit start as for the juggy warm up, traverse right to finish up the weakness 2m left of Wish You Were Here finish..

FA: Joe Hodgson

Start as for 'Joe's Traverse' and continue straight up to top out.

FA: Unknown

One to send your gym-climbing friends up for for their first taste of spicy top-outs. Start on horn as for Up and Easy but head left to tiny edges and slimpers. Big move up then exit left searching for invisible holds on the rounded top. V2 or V3?

Set: James S

FA: Some strong shire climber in a pair of Volleys

Trend right to top out.

Start low and crimp left up the wall to a slopey and committing top out.

Easy vertical wall with endless V0 possibilities. Perfect for warming up.

Warning Rock: Broken start holds

Sit start on shared start with 'Mystique', left hand to non in cut sidepull directly above and slap to the right after adjusting body position. continue up the V0 slab to the right.

Note on FA: its so damn contrived, I am convinced I am the one who would do it.

FA: Bill Zhou, 22 Dec 2019

Warning Rock: Broken start holds

Sit start on good slots in the scoop (left side is a jug, right side is an edge), then up through sidepulls to top out above.

FA: Unknown

Sit start from big undercling as for 'Storm' then head straight up only using holds on the light streak for your hands. Everything left and right is off limits.

Either go up to decent crimp rail and dyno to the top or balance through a few slopier holds.

FA: Unknown

Set: Phillip Booth

Sit start in undercling at the base of the crack and climb straight up, topping out as for 'X Wall'

Alternate: Sit start in undercling then climb the crack pure for about the same grade.

Set: Phillip Booth

FA: Unknown

Sit start in middle of X Wall with hands on the scoopy ledge and go straight up keeping left and out of the crack.

Set: Phillip Booth

FA: Unknown

Sit start from juggy undercling in front of the tree. Up a move or two then traverse right then up the crack.

FA: Unknown

Continue left from X Wall 5m to find these very juggy pocketed problems.

Options abound.

Sit start, hard to to established. Then up the left chute on mega pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 8 Jun 2020

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Activity

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