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Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Routes

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Grade Route

Medium cams finish at shared anchors

Set: Sam K

Follow the flake into a overhang crux and finish to shared anchors.

Set: Sam K

Needs one more bolt at the start RB1 to finish it..

Set: Sam K

Set: Sam K

Start at internal crack and up to roof, traverse right then into crux overhang one RB and finish at anchors

Set: Sam K

Short climb with a couple of nice technical moves.

Set: Sam K

FA: Sam K

Start right side of Balz Zack as a alternate route and into shared anchors.

FA: Sam K

Set: Sam K

Hard start up vertical crack, traverse right, mantel over finish at anchors.

Set: Sam K

Crux is the start traverse to bolts facing right side of arete added extra bolt to eliminate run out for 3rd clip

Set: George Paulides

FA: George Paulides

Mixed climb 2-3 cams at start continue to left side of arête and finish at anchors

FA: George Paulides

Set: George Paulides

Challenging technical climb with small crimps, edges and 2-3 finger pockets.

FFA: Graham Smith

Set: Sam K

FA: Amy Siah

Challenging technical climb with crimps and small pockets.

Set: Sam K

Share 3 RB of Sexsion Conexsion then traverse right to One Way Ally RB and up to horizontal crack and traverse to Supercharged RB and straight up to anchors.

FA: Sam K

Start at the crack overhang crux and traverse right up the arete and finish at anchors. If you take the face right side of RB, add another grade... 19

Set: Sam K

FA: Sam K

Set: Sam K

FA: Sam K

Set: Sam K

Set: Sam K

FFA: Greg Blachon, 5 May 2019

Set: George Paulides

FA: Dai-Kyu Kim

Set: Sam K

FA: Ken Lawrence, 23 Feb 2019

Set: Sam K

Set: Sam K

Hard start, crux is getting past the first RB. Good technique is needed.

Set: Sam K

FA: Sam K

Sloppy edges at crux between bolts 2 & 3. Good finger strength and technique is needed.

Set: Sam K

Share the first RB with Sloppy Slopes and traverse left over a juggy overhang which is the crux.

Set: Sam K

Start at sandstone block, mantel over rhino horn and slight traverse left to shared anchors of 'Time Out'

FA: Sam K

Set: Sam K

Start at sandstone block and share RB 1 & 2 of White Rhino, mantel over the rhino horn into a long left sloppy traverse then up into anchors.

Set: Sam K

Warning Rock: Broken hold

Excellent. Dyno up; then up again.

Gabriele G, Aaron Wong, Jack B

Start at crack and use first RB of Laid Back Luke and traverse right up the arete and finish at shared anchors of Black Rhino

Set: Sam K

Tricky start with an easy top out or traverse to the left to ring bolts on Barry's climb

As the name states though bring a large size rack, nice little practice warm up climb

Set: George Paulides

FA: George Paulides

Big moves on fun block.

Sit start

FA: Sam Louie

In the cave of the walk in to the slabs, one move to big mantle. Sit start on good crimps to slopers and mantle out.

FA: Sam Louie

Set: Sam K

Needs a couple of RB's and anchors to finish the route soon...

Set: Sam K

Start at internal vertical crack and traverse left under roof then through chimney to finish to anchors.

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