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Description

The Balkans of the South (sorta). Bloc after bloc of potential, with something for everyone. Low balls, high balls, roof, slabs, something easy, something hard - you name it. Lots of work has been put in with the locals to ensure that climbers are well perceived and tolerated. Keep it clean, keep it quiet.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Enter via Sierra Rd Reserve, Engadine. Past swing set and silver access gate. For main area, slight right onto service road for 30m then straight down track where some mountain bike kickers are built. Follow feint track down left past first boulder. Descriptions are from entry point heading north, or right to left facing the cliff line.

History

History timeline chart

Undoubtedly stumbled upon long ago. It's the Shire after all.

Areas

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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route

Matched sit start on left of small cave (as per right hand start of Waterboardia). Follow lip up the scoop, find your feet then bust up to a small edge near the top."

FA: Adrian Mascenon, Aug 2019

Lowish start under low right hand arete with left hand in sidepulls. Move up and left to the middle of the face, then up. Sit start variant: Start matched on the right hand arete/undercling. Awkward thrutchy move to the pocket sidepull probably adds a grade.

FA: James Brandtman

Sit start on low left arete as for NTFT, move right to good sidepull then powerful moves up and back in toward the main face. Powerful good fun!

Set: Robbo

FA: Andrew Khaw

Sit start with matched pinches on the low arete left of 'Waterboardia'. Follow the arete up, then straight up to top.

FA: James Brandtman

Sit start inside the boulder, matched on undercling near back wall, straight in from the entrance of the cave. Make your way into daylight, then right via undercling to join NTFT to top.

Sit start matched on flat ledge. Back wall is off for feet. Straight up through shallow roof to slot and top out.

Same starts DHBLW climb up and around the blunt prow. Finish up the crimpy tall slab.

FA: reuben mardan, 29 Aug

start on underclings and fire straight up. Finish up tall slab.

Sit start matched on low block then traverse right on crimpy edges, head around blunt prow to finish up as for DHBLW

FA: Eddie Lee, 20 Jul 2020

Short traverse right then up to good lip.

FA: Jackson O'Grady, 3 Feb 2021

Sit start on side pull about 3m right of bottle popper, then up the crimpy goodness to top out

FA: Josh Porter, 19 Jul 2020

Straight up face then traverse left into the obvious slot. Straight up to top out.

FA: Kavell Smith

Set: Cody Arts

Sit start on low jug. Rock up to pinch before heading to break in the middle of the wall then up left to top.

Hand and foot jam up the obvious crack, moving to crimps on the slab then up to top out.

Start low on big hold. Move left and up then mantle.

FA: JackRyan, 18 Jul

Sit start on the right just above fragile good hold. Traverse left on sidepulls and edges, keeping to the solid darker rock. Big moves up to the good edge then up left to the big horn like mega jug to top out.

Stand start matched on obvious jug. Straight up to good ledge then up right for a slopey top out.

FA: James Brandtman, 3 Jul 2020

Low start then up Gaston laybacks to top.

Epic. Nails.

Extra epic. Closed Project.

Start as Nip, traverse right to finish matched on juggy horn left of the big break.

FA: pert, 9 Apr

Sit start under low lip on good underclings. Up and out along the scoop to decent lip in the horizontal break, then bust up to sloping crimps and up. Fun!

Start as Nip, head right after horizontal break to a nice side pull and up face to top out.

FA: pert, 9 Apr

Sit start on low break. Up and left to jug, then use flakes and crimps to gain knob.

Start as for Not My Swamp but staying on the arete/fridge to top out directly up

FA: Emmanuel Madayag, Jul 2020

Sit start with low holds either side of prow. Work your way up prow befor heading left to top out

FA: Evan Mccarthy, 20 Jul 2020

Stand start on the pinch, following between line of thin holds to easy top.

FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 19 Jul 2020

Up the centre of the steep face on small edges. Imagine a hold out left at half height and use that to gain a hold in a vague crack. Using that and another almost hold reach a good hold to top out.

FA: Kai Watkins

Start left of 'Ultimatum' on good holds. Somehow follow the right trending groovy thing to a stable position and top out. Harder than it looks! Just like breaking a habit.

FA: Kai Watkins

Sit start under nose as per 'Relentless', straight up on good holds.

FA: Cameron Kirk

Sit start on good edge under low buldge, adjacent to Banksia tree, then traverse left and up through the gully before heading up through the middle of the face.

Start right of 'Stay Alive', but instead of following the flake, just head straight up on a blank wall of nothing. Only been top roped... for now.

FA: Cody Arts

East start up obvious flake. Holds disappear after the big break for a high, committing top, unless you bail out left.

Left of 'Stay Alive'. Sit start in obvious horizontal break, wick up move up into roof, then out right up the thin crack to good holds and a high top. Awesome.

Sit start with hands in the scoop. Move onto the holds under the roof and dyno to the jug slot. Hoist a leg up and mantle straight out.

FA: David Barrie, 6 Jun 2020

20m downhill from Canada Crack and One Move Blunder.

Sit start low and do a couple of tension-y moves up the diagonal breaks. Once you have the nipple crippled you're in the clear.

FA: David Barrie, 6 Jun 2020

Tricky start on good holds with a simple second half. Just don't look down.

FA: Jessica Rutherford

Move out from roof to slab.

FA: Jackson O'Grady, 21 Jul

Start low on decent edge and traverse right toward the arete. Up on crimps trending back left to top. Try not to fall on the tree.

Start in the slot left of the arete, before moving up and down around the blunt arete, then up, then back in towards the top. Or something like that. Don't get lost. Sharp, crimpy, wild.

FA: Robbo

Sit start under scoop. Straight up then right along lip before heading up left to the break. Top straight up and over.

FA: Kavell Smith

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