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Description

One higher wall and lots of scattered boulders along the top path further into the park.

Access issues inherited from Carss Park

According the the NSW government's Aboriginal Heritage Information Management System there are 9 recorded Aboriginal sites in Carrs Park, with two of them being along the cliffline where Up in the Nose Bleeds sector is located. The remaining 7 sites are along the waterline on the eastern end of the park. Take care of the place - avoid digging out caves especially as these could be midden sites.

Approach

Follow the path through the bush that is around 50m left of the front row (facing the boulders), at the far corner of the park. It will lead you up and right and pretty soon you will see a bunch of rock appear on the left on the edge of the park. The first you will reach (coming from the front row area) is the chef's boulder, then areas follow along the path up on the left all the way to the Gameygal Lookdown area. Enemy destruct boulder is down to the right of the path just after the wooden bridge.

Ethic inherited from Carss Park

We acknowledge the The Gameygal (Kameygal) clan, members of the Dharug language group, as the Traditional Owners of this unceded land and recognise their continuing connection to land, waters and culture. We pay our respects to their Elders past, present and emerging. Treat it like it's sacred as it is.

History

History timeline chart

"I imagine most of these "new" problems were done decades ago. It was always the kind of place where people just climbed there but it never had a guide. Its been well known about since the 90s." - Local hardman Monty

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on the undercling and go up using the arete. Make sure not to dab on the detached rock.

FA: Alexander Lopes, 4 Aug

Start on the undercling, traverse right then mantle above sloper

FA: James Fenech, 4 Aug

Sit start with both hands in the big sidepull. using undercling move up into sloper, left to rail of ironstone and mantle. Bit easier than mouldy lasagne (and better for your digestion).

FA: Tom Beswetherick, 2021

Start in the cave and mantle through the top hole of the cave.

FA: James Fenech, 6 Aug

Traverse left to right using the underclings then go up and top out. Inside of the cave is in.

James Fenech

FA: James Fenech, 6 Aug

Tallest area, some highballs, Trad possibilities and a slew of boulders.

climb left face of boulder straight up

FA: Tom Bes

Climb the far left edge of the slab.

FA: Tom Bes

start 1m in from left edge on rounded edges. follow these up. beautiful

FA: Tom Bes

start just below big sinker jug, move up with R hand into sinker and up.

FA: Tom Bes

Start right in front of tree. Go straight up enjoying the big hollow sounding sinker with L hand.

FA: Tom Bes

Start 1m in from right edge and head straight up.

FA: Tom Bes

Start on far right edge of slab. use arete and face holds to get up and away

FA: Tom Bes

Up the corner. Not much in the way of feet.

FA: Tom Beswetherick

Start on juggy lip. Go up to the two crimps and then reach around the arete for a juggy sloper. Make your way up the face of the boulder using the arete and top out.

FA: Meeeeeeee, 8 Sep

The direct line up the breaks. I was too scared to go for the big reach with just pads. Belay me plz

Highball. Start below the big dish and head up the first two breaks, then head right a bit to top out. Could go on gear too at around 15-16?

FA: Tom Beswetherick

Behind the WKit90s area and to the left of the veggie traverse is a little path that leads to a beautiful little spot that has definitely seen some action judging by the condom packets.

Start low hugging the big feature. Embrace it in its sandy glory as you head into the light

FA: Tom Bes

Start on little scoop crimp - go up through Sloppers to top. bottom ledge and everything on Back alley blowout / Back alley beauty is out.

The right hand edge and inner face of this boulder looks great to climb. I wouldn't recommend it. The only way back down is a jump from the top unless you want to try the spicy mantle through the bushes (don't). 0 stars. If you have enough pads you could cover the whole area and traverse left at the top and finish out as for back alley beauty?

FA: Tom Bes

Start on jug where the branch comes out over the lip. Head right on jugs and finish up Runnel of Love. Pumparama

FA: Tom Bes

start on far left hold next to tree as for veggie traverse but keep going right and finish up Keyboard Climbers. Pumpy.

Start on big lowest rail below tree in rock. Head straight up to rail and then big crimp next to tree. then move out right across smaller crimps to top rail. For full tick, touch both hands to big sloper on top.

FA: Tom Bes

Start low on huge jug on rail directly beneath bulge. Head straight up through slanting breaks and finish as for young Cheeks Run free with both hands on sloping top. Tom Bes FA

FA: Tom Bes

Start on jug deep under ledge. big move to jug on lip then move up and right for an even bigger move to dusty ledge. match on hold just up and left of this for full tick.

Start deep under the ledge on crimpy jug and work out under the roof using small crimps to the big jug on lip. Then move up as for runnel of love but use green side pull to head left around bulge to flat ledge otherside of bush. finish matched on hold left and up a bit of this as for StickyBrush.

Start deep on lowest holds, feet up and head through roof on small crimps to big jug on lip. Then head left and up through jugs in runnel and finish on rail to right and feet on starting jug. Downclimb/jump off.

FA: Tom Bes

Start on thin tight crimps low in the back of cave with feet only on block crimps are on (not low slanty rock). Reach back to sideways leaning rail in roof. Slap out to lip and head up through small breaks to gain ledge just below top finish here with feet on ledge for full tick. Jump off

FA: Tom Bes

Start on thin tight crimps low in the back of cave. Feet up and reach back to sideways leaning rail in roof. Gain lip and move up and right through pockety breaks and finish on the blackened victory jug. jump off

Finally a top out! Start around 3m right of keyboard climbers in big low break. Go up and out to gain big juggy ledge, mantle 1 into a tight wriggle to gain mantle 2 out left. There are enough holds without removing any plant life or pulling on it.

FA: Tom Bes

Sit start with matched hands on rail, throw out right and then traverse left, match top rail to finish.

FA: James Fenech, 22 Aug

Start on bottom jug and make your way up using the undercling into hard mantle.

Alex Lopes

FA: Alexander Lopes, 4 Aug

Start as 'TBCM' and go directly up and mantle without the use of the undercling and right heel hook.

FA: Meeeeeeee (Owen Lam), Aug 2021

Sit start left and traverse right into 'TBCM'

Start as 'TBCM' and traverse and mantle right.

James Fenech

FA: James Fenech, 4 Aug

Walk further down the path around 20m (?) until you see some rock drop off to the right. head into the bush until you are almost in line with the toilet block down below.

up the fun but short hand crack

FA: Tom Beswetherick

start just left of the rightmost low break. Head up using the pockets into a slightly exciting top out

FA: Tom Bes

Sit start on the rock with hand on crimpy ledge. move up and reach up and back to first big jug over lip of roof. Head back fully onto the roof and move up on good jugs and edges to top out just before prow. somewhat committing top. Tom Bes FA

FA: Tom Bes

Up the obvious corner crack, head out using sandy lip and up crack/edge of roof block. Tom Bes FA

FA: Tom Bes

Sit start on low pockets, R in 1-2 finger pocket. stand up off these and move up and right to gain lip and exit as for Enemy Destruct. Big crack is off. Tom Bes FA

FA: Tom Bes

A great pocket route. Sit start on big R H pinchy pocket and low L pocket. move up into small pockets, FA found a stacked mono worked best, gain sidepull and head straight out through crack and jutting rocks. Tom Bes FA

FA: Tom Bes

Boulders continue up left of main path.

Start on big low block. Move a bit right and head up small face around from big scoop.

FA: Tom Bes

Start in the big low block. Move right through undercling to big juggy block and go straight up.

FA: Tom Bes

Big section of good rock at the top of the hill close to the Carwar Avenue carparks. Ps. There is some good looking rock on left most side behind some fallen down fences that's probably best to avoid.

Sit start with hands on low jug and feet on same block. Block on right is out. Pop up into the overhead small undercling and move right through crimps into the 2 big pockets. Heave ho up to the jug and out.

FA: Tom Bes

Start on rail and go up to left peak of the mid height hammerhead feature. Straight up through the interesting juggy features

FA: Tom Bes

Start on block below right prow of hammerhead feature. Up and away

FA: Tom Bes

Start just below small tree growing out of rock. Head slightly right and up arete

FA: Tom Bes

Start as for Ahoy. Go right on rail, bottom rock is off for feet. Move up and right to second break and go all the way up as for Runnel of Love.

FA: Tom Bes

Start on the lowest jug beneath the left of of top block. Bottom rock is off (use the back wall and sandy block to right). Head straight up.

FA: Tom Bes

Start on the big rail that is bicolour green and orange. Head up and right a bit under top block top out.

FA: Tom Bes

Start on far right low arete and work up the fun features. Stay direct over arete for topout.

FA: Tom Bes

Start on sandy spray painted ledge. Move up and left through breaks. Tom Bes FA with lots of laughing Kookaburras.

FA: Tom Bes

Start as Fingers like legs. Reach our to the slopers and make your way across to the slight break on the lip. Top out.

FA: Meeeeeeee, 20 Aug

Get deeeeeep in the alcove. Start with feet on the small back wall and crimp the low thin rail. Try not to dab as you move to the scoop on the face. Tricky mantle out. Tom Bes FA click right for 2nd video)

FA: Tom Bes

Start as Doner Kebab. Go out to the slopers and move across the face of the boulder. Lip is out. Top out on the left side of the boulder.

FA: 22 Aug

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