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Kayak Krag

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 5
  • Aka: krusty kracks
5
AU

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Summary

A fun stop if you want to boat in to a Riverside crag. Lots of new boulder potential

Description

We acknowledge the Dharawal nation as the Traditional Owners of this unceded land and recognise their continuing connection to land, waters and culture. We pay our respects to their Elders past, present and emerging. Treat it like it is sacred as it is.

A short river crossing is the minimum boating needed to get to this small cluster of cracks and slabs. Bit sandy, bring a brush. New boulder and route potential if you want to do the cleaning. A microadventure crag.

The cracks are obvious from the water. the slabs are about 20m to the right (facing in from the water) and up a bit. right next to some cut steps to a small cave.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

There is almost certainly an on foot approach via a longer track. But for a full tick arrive via the water. If you want a bush approach why wouldn't you go to cathedral? Woronora quays is directly opposite. Follow the power lines over and pull up near the yellow sign. There are many other nice places to set sail from for a nicer longer row in.

Ethic

No bolts. Everything is bouldering or trad. Ground up bouldering is a thing right?

History

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There are some old staples in rocks and chipped feet leading into small caves. Maybe done by the scouts back in the day?

Routes

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Grade Route

The shortest splitter in Sydney. Thin hands in this heartbreakingly short parallel crack. For full tick, sit start on the boulder in front of it. and don't use the big foot on the ledge. Named after my neighbours who gifted me a kayak.

FA: Tom Bes, Nov 2020

Offwidth crack through roof and up. Needs big gear #3-#5, ideally 2 #4's. Short but burly. Sandy. The first ascensionist loved it. The second cursed all sandstone midroute, proclaimed 'after this i'm leaving Sydney' and then when they ran out of #4/5 cams further on, declared 'F this S i'm out of here' and ran it out to the top. Classic. FA: Heel Toe Tom, Dyno Jake and Chickenwing Rohan.

FA: Tom Bes & Jake Delaney, 22 Nov

Big obvious chimney with offwidth characteristics. Chickenwings are definitely involved. stay out towards the edge. originally soloed. no gear. a boulder? Named after my neighbours who gifted me a kayak.

FA: Tom Bes, Nov 2020

up the tiny ledges to gain knob on edge of small ledge. Up onto this then lean out left to gain top edge then smear out onto the slope and haul yourself outta there.

FA: Tom Bes, Nov 2020

Up thin ledges to slopey topout. Mossy.

FA: Tom Bes, Nov 2020

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