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Description
Small but well-featured bouldering with excellent sub-V5 problems in peaceful bush land. Rock is heavily featured with routes mostly involving long moves between slopers or jugs. Nice flat landing and clean topouts mean that no mat is required. A major cleanup of trash was done here - so if you see any rubbish such as drug paraphenalia left by others please take it out with you.
Access issues inherited from Sutherland
For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing
Approach
It's located just behind the Yamaha Music School (now the Janalli College SGSCC) off Sutherland Road, opposite Louise St, Janalli. Walk in their entrance gate and around to the right of the first building, or through the oval to the right when gate closed. Hook around left behind this building and follow small track left through bush and down a little cliff. The bouldering is visible from here on left about 50m away.
History
Generations of local kids have spent time pulling bongs and bludging school in this cave. Scrolling through the first ascent dates listed in this guide you may be forgiven for thinking that this is a newly discovered area. Rest assured the majority of problems (yes, even most of the contrived dirty ones) were first climbed way back in the 1990s. This area (without individual problems) was listed in the 2001 Peter Balint Sydney bouldering guide for example. It wasn't until the mid 2010s that anyone started putting names and grades onto this website.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
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★ Roof Lip Traverse V2 - IMG_20180519_144517_442.jpg
The School (Bouldering) - Far Left Slab.jpg
The School (Bouldering) - IMG_20180519_144517_442.jpg