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Description

Small but well-featured bouldering with excellent sub-V5 problems in peaceful bush land. Rock is heavily featured with routes mostly involving long moves between slopers or jugs. Nice flat landing and clean topouts mean that no mat is required. A major cleanup of trash was done here - so if you see any rubbish such as drug paraphenalia left by others please take it out with you.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

It's located just behind the Yamaha Music School (now the Janalli College SGSCC) off Sutherland Road, opposite Louise St, Janalli. Walk in their entrance gate and around to the right of the first building, or through the oval to the right when gate closed. Hook around left behind this building and follow small track left through bush and down a little cliff. The bouldering is visible from here on left about 50m away.

Routes

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Grade Route

On the block around 10m left of first slab. Start on left edge of blank wall on left sidepull and right undercling. Move left and up into crimpy dish. Get your feet in the dish and enjoy the slabby top out. Trend right at top. Be careful of the small tree near base, place pads around it.

FA: Tom Bes, 6 Jul

Start deep in the cave with both hands on the inside of the lowest bulge, feet on the sandy ramp. Works best facing out. Shuffle along cave to gain undercling. Top out over prow without heading right over the pocket wall.

FA: Tom Bes, 6 Jul

Sit start with LH on lower edge beneath scoop, RH in horizontal crack. Move up and left using pockets and big pinch under the roof, top out above scoop.

Set: Tom Bes & Dyno Jake

Slabby rock on far left of crag. Start with an undercling with R hand and nothing else above lower shelf. Move up using small pockets and mantle out. Left arête is off.

FA: Tom Bes, 7 Jul 2018

Step onto lower shelf and move up slab and top out over rocks directly above. Crack, rocks and tree on the right are out.

Set: Tom Bes

Good warm-up pumper. Starts from the far left of the cliff on black slabs, and traverses the high juggy break to the major tree. Top out with care.

Overhung scooped feature on left side.

Lower traverse starting both sides of the Taipan prow start. Move right staying low on the slopey rail to gain a toe hook in the scoop. Finish as for old school. Surely done before considering the amount of chalk that is on those holds.

Set: Tom Bes

Sit start, side pulls and heel hook on left side of scoop. Up left to horizontal break then straight up to top

FA: Jimmy Bliss, 2 Apr 2016

Bat hang start to old school. Start hanging off both feet in the dish and then bring up hands and work around to the rest of old school. Fuuuuunnn. Tom Bes FA

FA: Tom Bes, 6 Jul

Hands on right side of scoop, heel into scoop then grunt up to good holds.

Start on black rock under tree growing out of cliff. Trend up left on slimpers to juggy finish.

Start on black rock under tree and climb subtle arete finishing right of tree. There is a kind of scary detached block at the end.

Start at the two waist high side pulls, just to the right of the tree. Dyno up to the obvious jug about 2.5m up and ring that bell! Take care topping out with the suspicious jammed rock.

FA: Dan Adijans, 16 Jun 2020

Thin vertical problem up the orange seam. Intense sidepulls to break then easy juggy finish and great topout.

Starts 1m right of Orange Face: undercling up to small LH crimp then to thin holds out right on twin seams. Big move up black streak.

FA: James S, 22 Sep 2019

Easiest line here up slabby black face.

Sit start on wide flat ledge under roof, move through underclings in roof and over bulge to slabby top out.

Left side of roof section straight up with good holds to finish.

Up little protruding feature starting down to the right.

Up using little slimper on the left and long move to hold on the right. Mantle out sandy slopers.

Starts at far right side of crag, and traverse the horizontal break from right to left finishing at tree on vertical wall.

Step into double undercling with feet on angled rock, move up to 2 slopey crimps towards top on right face, top out right. In memory of Luke Nowell

Set: Luke Nowell

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