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Yates Yard

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 77
  • Aka: YY
21

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Description

Bit of fun for everyone. Lots of variety from big slabby walls to overhanging boulders. Faces west and gets plenty of light for great arvo climbs. Mostly beginner to intermediate climbs, but definitely potential for more advanced routes

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Park at the northern most point of Yates Road at the trail head for Illaroo Bluff. Veer left down BMX trail for 100m until obvious left turn off. Follow for 30-50m until at cliff face. Approach down slope to the right where Main Slab Wall is found.

History

History timeline chart

Just off a trail from popular lookout, so likely climbed before but no history found.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start in scoop. Up to the right via flakey crimps.

Set: Sam Fisher

Same as Snowflakes but left hand in crack for assistance.

Set: Sam Fisher

Sit start in scoop. Climb up through the large crack, top out via left hand arete

Hands matched in crimp just below the edge. Once set, move up to crimpy ledge, right hand up gaston into large scoop. High feet and top out.

Start far left of Small Slab wall. Up arete and traverse right. Finish as per Up In Arms

Set: Sam Fisher

Same start as per Low Traverse. Once on crimpy edge, top out with a high foot.

Standing start at Not All It's Cracked Up to Be. Traverse to the left and continue traversing anti-clockwise around the whole boulder.

Start on low jug and straight up ↑

Start where 'LED' is and then move right to a big reach then, up the arete to top out. If you want you could start from 'Not all it's cracked up to be' and have some more crimps, probably for a v2.

FA: Upton

Sit start on arete, up crimps and into the crack. Optional top out, can be a tricky downclimb.

Sit start. LH in pocket on light smear. RH thumb in pocket. Pull up to RH crimp then traverse along to the left. Top out before going around the corner.

Sit start, Hands start in obvious pockets. Straight up.

Set: Sam Fisher

Sit start, hands matched on reddish crimp. Move right to good holds and then back to the left to top out

Start as per Chicken Wings. Big move straight up to nice edge. Come around edge and mantle to top out.

Set: Sam Fisher

Low fun. Sit start as per Chicken Wings, stay low and move to the far right.

Set: Sam Fisher

Start two hands-on jug at the corner with right foot on low smear. Move up nice lip to connect with 'Chicken Wings'. Can also extend to finish at 'Laid Back'

FA: Sam Louie

Start the same as 'Louie on the low road' and take the high road to the end using the rounded slopey top to mantle.

FA: Upton

Sit start on right corner of boulder. Move left into big scoop. Straight up to top out

Set: Sam Fisher

Behind 'LED' and 'It's not all it's cracked up to be' boulder. High tufa boulder. Start with right-hand undercling low to the right and left hand on pinch. Feet low. Go up until your left hand is in the dark abyss hole and then mantle to the left.

FA: Upton

Start in same as 'Like a stegosaurus's back' and move up right to top out. Tree makes it hard for nice fall.

FA: Upton

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