Two high slabs with steepness to start

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council:


Park at the East end of Menai Rd in Bangor, walk down the driveway at the north side and downhill 30m. The driveway continues staright down hill, and a dirt track veers right. Take this right for 30m then left left and up the hill. 4wd or walk for 3 minutes to power pylon. The track veers back south, go for 60m to a small cairn (about halfway between the 2 power pylons) and bash down the hill 50m to Boulder A. Boulder B is 40m R of Boulder A.


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Grade Route

Sitstart on left side of arete, climb left side and past block and left and topout

FFA: Cam

Start on R side of left arete. Up, then right to flakes near top. High! Slabby!

FFA: Cam

Start 1.5m R of Why. Up past 2 small flakes to better flake then as for Why

FFA: mikl

Start 3m R of arete and up. Steeping off rock is not on.

FFA: mikl

start 2m R of Crabbing. Long long reach to first slope and up

FFA: mikl

Sit start on underside of flake on 45 degree o'hung wall. Up flake then left and up slab/flake/corner

Start for Rocknasium and Cool, but stay low all the way across right to top out Rocknasium.

FA: Troy Bartlett, 1 Dec 2018

Sit start as for Cool and straight up 45 degree wall, Jugs out R are off.

Marcus Lim Chris Beers

FFA: Cam Taylor

Nice jugging. Sitstart in big scoop and up.

FFA: Cam Taylor

Starts at the left side of Boulder B, 40m R of Boudler A. Up thin seam with a big finish.

FFA: Cam Taylor

Sitstart and ignore jugs

Sitstart and up

Sitstart on sidepull, hard pull up left and left again.

FFA: Cam Taylor

Sitstart on old stump. Up and mantel topout

FFA: Cam Taylor

Start 2m R of WW. Start in chosscave, huge move to sandy ugly hold and up.

mattias braach-maksvytis

FFA: Cam Taylor

The right exit to Massive Attack.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 26 Dec 2017


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