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Party Palace Cave

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Description

A small cave overlooking George's River. Rock quality is generally reasonable, with a high headwall. Plenty of possibility for more routes, the developers just aren't good enough to do them!

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Just a kilometer or two from Revesby Rocks along Henry Lawson Drive, this crag has a slighly longer walk in. Park here: (Parking-33.978526, 151.003931) then head into bush land just above Ducktropolis crag. Follow it up and left and look out for right turn off about 5 mins in. Head back towards water trending down on path and then via bush. Big Cave on rock line. OLD WAlK IN:Coming from Picnic Point (heading east along Henry Lawson Drive), park on the left side of the road (not heaps of room - perhaps find somewhere else) when you see a brown sign reading 'George's River National Park'. This is just near the top of the hill. Cross the road and go through the gate. Follow the fire trail which turns immediately right, following the road, then pulls away left. Follow this for around 200m before it turns left again. Not much later (!60m?) there's a significant path to the right. Follow this for around 40m and you'll find yourself at a look out of sorts, surrounded by short cliffs. There's a few decent short things here. Drop down this cliff line and head right and down the hill (there's a sort of ramp). Within 30m you'll find the cave. Hard to miss.

History

History timeline chart

Scoped out by Dan Webster then developed one good day with the help of Ryan Myers and Darcey.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Unknown problem about 3m right of CF. Straight up. Bad landing.

FA: 2012

Just right of small triangular rock on the ground, at the middle/right end of the crag. Basically move straight up staying just left of the crack, but using it. Not as bad as the name suggests!

FA: dwebster, 2012

As for CF. Good jug. (marked SN on the photo.) Keeping feet off the easy rocks, move up the rising ramp/arete till the jug.

FA: 2012

Same start as So Natural. Instead of going up to the top, traverse left towards the start of The Change Up.

FA: Earl Paras, 7 Aug 2021

As So close. Keep going up the arete, then straight to the top.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Jump up to holds on top of nose 4m left of previous climbs. Traverse break right, then up arete, and straight (as for end of So Natural).

FA: 2012

Sit start low on the rail just above the break (break useful for high heel). Move left hand into the rounded scope and push out left for jug 'So Close'. Continue up as for 'So Close' to finishing jug.

FA: Phillip Booth, 2020

From big hold in back right of cave, traverse left along undercling, then straight out along line till nose. Go under nose, finishing with hands on top.

FA: dwebster, 2012

As for Side to side, but continue on through The Change Up. Tiring.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Start in the cave with feet at the back wall and hands on the undercling rail. The bottom ledges in the back of the cave are out. Work the line between Side To Side and Back To Front using toe hook(s) in the start-hold underclings, and make your way to the nose. Gather your energy and do The Change Up all the way to the finish. Pumpy and endurance sapping

FA: Earl Paras, 7 Aug 2021

Highballish extension to My Julie. Mantle up nose and then step up right onto airy face without using left face. Named after the huge rock that pulled as first ascentionist pulled over the very top. The rest of the rock seems alright though

FA: Tom Bes, Jul 2021

Instead of finishing on nose feature, mantle up and head directly out up licheny face.

FA: Tom Bes, 2021

Start feet where two dots are. Right hand on marked sharp feature undercling, left hand where red dot is at chalked jug. Follow the line, feet get tricky when bumping for the top out. The rock felt great! There is a couple of variations where you can cut feet for fun. Check out the climb on instagram Edward Lind

FA: Edward Lind

FA: 26 Jun 2021

As for Side to Side in big hold. Move out to next undercling rail. Then left to jugs, finishing on nose.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Starting about 3m left of the nose, sit start on small feature at left end of scoop. Right and out nose, finishing on front side of it.

FA: 2012

As for JLB. Follow line out right, but move upward through scoop and keep going to the top. Careful... Named after the red hold that crumbled before the first ascent. It wasn't the only one...

FA: 2012

Start on thin iron stone pinch under cave and head straight out, into scoop and mantle out.

FA: Tom Beswetherick

Start in the same pinch/jug as DTtRB with easy feet. Reach out left under the roof to two small holds on a flake (one at the end, the other on the right). Toe hook and make a big move for the lip. Then traverse lip R until you can mantle.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Follow the arete up without using the right rock.

FA: Charity Maj, 12 Dec 2017

Up to the tortoise heads for a top out.

FA: Postman, 12 Dec 2017

Crouch start on ledge, with hands on underclings in cave. Top out is a bit mossy but otherwise fine enough.

Maint: Earl Paras

Start with hands in cave and go straight up to top. Simple description, hard problem.

FA: Earl Paras

FA: 15 Sep 2021

We like to take the party all the way. Traverse the whole palace. Start at same jugs for S2S, To my lichen etc with feet on shelf below jug. This climb is to use only the roof no low feet. There's a great rail so live up the toe hooks. Run hands along the rail until coming to the features of My Julie, Side 2 side and My Lichen. From here cross through the ceiling pinches towards the other side of what I will call the bowl of the cave (Open ceiling section where you can look upwards). There is a really nice sloper jug left of the horn where you'll want some rest. Grab a heel hook to and take few seconds. From here continue left and high to a finger rail above what is a very flaky shelf. Please take care of this shelf it's beautiful yet brittle. You may use feet on it but select the thicker corners of the shelf. Traverse along this finger rail until passing the flaky shelf and top out between the two features on low roof. Pray for your skin.

Set: Edward Lind, 15 Aug 2021

FA: Jeremi Campese, 15 Aug 2021

Rock up. Look at Tortuga to the left of this line covered in moss thinking wtf is this. See some pretty cool looking mono pockets. Brain says shove your finger in there cam it from a left hand lock off gaston to a heinous off camber two finger sloper for the grade. Maintain lock left hand in gaston, raise left foot high to break in wall below left hand and effectively pump to high left hand jug. Feels fucking great. Top out to see this wicked looking tree. Life's good.

Set: Edward Lind & Jeremi Campese, 8 Aug 2021

FA: Jeremi Campese, 8 Aug 2021

Endurance traverse starting from side to side jug. Pre requisite climb for Gladys. Topo says it all

FA: Jeremi Campese, 1 Aug 2021

Set: Edward Lind & Jeremi Campese, 1 Aug 2021

Straight up the middle. Great for beginners and kids.

FA: Fraser Paras, 22 Sep 2021

Kids and beginner climb to the right of Chicken McNugget.

FA: Evan Paras, 22 Sep 2021

FA: Evan Paras, 22 Sep 2021

Start low on right at the arete. Traverse left and top out via Monkey Magic. Make sure to check rock quality before ascent. Some of the start holds broke off on the arete

FA: Earl Paras, 24 Sep 2021

Traverse from left of bloc to right and then top out.

FA: Earl Paras, 24 Sep 2021

Straight up the middle of the Monkey cloud.

FA: Earl Paras, 24 Sep 2021

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Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

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