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Description

Do you like steep overhanging power routes, that are possibly a little stiffly graded? Yes? Then you and this crag will be great friends!

Approach

From the parking area, follow the track past Riverside and up the valley to the cliff. You'll arrive under 'Crossing the Rubicon' in between 30 and 40 minutes.

Descent notes

Lowering off is the go. If you don't have much experience cleaning the draws of very overhanging sport routes, take care, as there are some pretty big swings to be had.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The left hand side of the cliff faces west and is caped by an enormous 6m roof.

Very short route on the far left of the cave.

FA: garry phillips, May 2017

Crack in the middle of the wall.

First bolted line right of Hydra. Climbing starts from the ledge, stick clip the first or carefully climb to it. Not the best climbing but on amazing rock.

Starts 3m left of Unnamed 401. Through the roof and the pleasant wall above.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2018

At the left end of the big roof is a ridiculously steep right trending weakness. Steep moves to start soon gain the obvious roof crack. Out this, and get established in the right facing corner system above. Move up and right to anchor. Classy climbing. There is a captive biner at half height to help with cleaning.

FA: Garry Phillips, May 2018

Steep climbing out the Left hand side of the roof. Up the wall to the base of the roof then follow the huge flake system out left to finish on the same anchors as Unnamed.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 25 Apr 2018

Starts as for Alpha 9 but at the roof take the right hand line.

FFA: G Phillips, Sep 2018

The vision was a warmup, dynamic mantle, caution of the rope drag if you pre clip the first, climb through the small roof to finish under the big roof on jugs. The rock in the roof is better than it looks.

FA: Dan Johnson, 26 Dec 2018

The mythical triple link starting up Gatorade traversing all the way right and finishing up A Bridge too Far. Extend the anchor of Gatorade.

Next line left of A bridge to Far

This steep little number climbs out of the cave about 6m left of the start of Crossing The Rubicon. Powerful start to an awkward rest. Then a technical traverse to the lip. Has fixed quickdraws on the route, but no loweroff on the anchors. Easiest to touch the anchors then jump!

FA: Owen Gervasoni, Jun 2018

A highly entertaining climb with terrific positions. Start at far right hand side of the cave. Bouldery start up the corner (stick clipping the second bolt is the way to go) then traverse out left along the very lip of the roof. Follow the thin crack past the slab and the final overhang.

FA: Stu Scott & Tony McKenny, May 2017

Beautiful orange rock in the centre of the cliff. Mostly north facing.

The mega link up, start on Hercules, reverse three daggers slopey traverse, and finish on Caligula. It’s long, contrived and needs to be bolted properly but hey... if you get bored, it’s fun! (Down climbing at the waterfall to rest is for losers and you only get to take half the grade)

FA: The Sodden Archer

Bouldery climbing 5m left of Caligula

Start directly under the waterfall,upwards to the top ledge however you please, then begin your traverse left through some awesome moves, and surprisingly outstanding Crimps and ledges, to the final spicy move, a lot of foresight into this route from one of the emperors of the colloseum

FA: garry phillips, 24 Aug 2017

An excellent climb starting in the steep alcove just right of Caligula. Up this to the ledge then blast up the steep face past some small holds to a pumpy traverse right on slopers. Finish up the last section of Hercules.

FA: Garry Phillips, May 2019

You probably won’t be able to do it anyway but best if we stay off it,

A Sand River classic. Steep and athletic climbing, with a dyno, multiple heel hooks and an energy sapping finish.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

Direct finish to Hercules has a vicious boulder problem guarding the chains.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

Varied and sustained on glorious rock. At the top of it's grade and difficult to on-sight.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

After exiting the hanging corner on Alea Jacta, traverse right on good horizontal rail but poor feet, then launch up final nose to DBB.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

Starts through the right hand end of the overhang, then takes the corner/seam above, finishing at the Alea Jacta est RHF anchors.

FA: Dave Humphries, Aug 2018

Right hand side of the main overhanging Colloseum. North facing

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and following the break to finish up left hand side of the head wall. Classic power endurance route with a heart breaking last move.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and going up the middle of the head wall.

FA: garry phillips, 2017

The initial white pocketed wall of Fed to the Lions to DBB. The anchor clip is a bit reachy.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, 2017

Power up the 45 degree overhanging wall directly above Lions. Excellent boulder problem crux leads to easier climbing through sandy caves above. Worth doing if you go to the effort of cleaning out the sandy top.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, 2017

Classic introduction to pumpy and steep sandstone climbing. The anchor clip can be a bit of a stretch.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, 2017

The way off route variant which involves heading into the cave next to way of the dragon, gr25 at best and barely, if you use a knee pad to obtain the second no hands rest give yourself a 24, still ok but not the real line.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

Clips the first bolt of TMMTE then heads left and up

FA: Garry Phillips, 31 Dec 2017

The short and steep black arête at the right end of the main wall of the Colosseum. Gymnastic and boulder all the way to the anchor.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, Jul 2018

Climb the the right side of the TMMTE arete to the ledge, then the headwall above.

FA: Dave Humpries & Jon Nermut, Jul 2018

To the right of TMMTE is a short but steep wall, directly below the Upper Tier.

Nice technical moves on the bulging wall just left of Wild Boar. Not a bad idea to stick clip the first bolt.

FA: David & David Stephenson, Nov 2018

Nice wall climbing on the short wall 40m right of TMMFE.

FA: Tony Mckenny, Jun 2018

A ticklish start and a steep, very ticklish finish. Fun.

FA: T McKenny & B Bull, Nov 2018

High orange buttress, accessed up a scrambley trail between the Colosseum and Plebeian's wall.

Technical crux is above a ledge.

FA: Stu Scott & Bob Bull, Jun 2018

Interesting climbing and terrific positions on the right hand arete. Arapiles style baked rock.

FA: Bob Bull & Stu Scott, Jul 2018

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