Routes in North East for selected grade

Arête between the 2 prominent crack lines. Scramble over from ledge and belay from top of the pillar. Climb the RHS of the arête with great movement and some flakey rock

Short but sequency line visible on the eastern side of descent gully (near pillar) just as you enter the gully from the top.

Reachy moves on slighty overhung thin hands - may be easier for those with smaller digits.

To set toppie - walk 60m right from the climb around the butress. Then left 15m (over slab) and left again 20m along wall to cairn. Scramble down to topout ledge.

The line left of Die Nadal

Boldly climb the vague seam-crack and arete of the pillar between Defender of the Faith and Rigaudon to a stance at the top of the pillar. Continue up either of these routes to the top.

A classic route. Technical stemming or strenuous layback corner, take your pick! There is usually some tat around a big horn at the top of the first pitch allowing you to lower off.

The dark corner just to the left of Barbe Di Vendetta with the singular crack line spearing straight up past a small rooflet formed by a rectangular block. Two pitches -

1. 35 m 21. An amazing pitch. Fingerlock, layback, stem, jam and chimney the corner to a small ledge and comfy belay behind a large block at 35m.

2. 45 m 19. Continue up the line and through the roof about 15 m above the belay. Step left for a few metres, then back to the right and continue to top on rock of lesser quality.

Can easily be spotted by the long, perfect corner just above the little rooflets. Follow your nose up the talus to get to the base of the chimney/gully of P1. Pitch lengths are updated from guide description to be more accurate.

1. 15, 20m - up the chimney, stepping around right before the offwidth to a ledge below corner crack.

2. 21, 20m - finger crack up to ledges under rooflets

3. 16, 25m - left around overhangs to end up in the base of the corner. Can be linked with p2 with a couple long slings.

4. 20, 50m - long, technical corner capped with a hand crack. Almost exactly 50m

5. easy to the top

The line of bolts up the groove with a tree, through broken face to a roof and then up headwall and arete to the top DBB. The tree can be slung for the first piece.

Long broken major corner at left end of final buttress

The perfect looking little face just around the corner. Surprisingly atmospheric and exposed for its diminutive size, as it's mostly climbed up the exposed arete. Bolting is a bit less friendly than the other routes.

The route with the giant hole down low. A beta-dependent crux.

Starts on the ledge above (fixed rope). Climbs the obvious arcing crack. Bring a #1 or #2 cam for between the final bolt and the anchor if you're not confident jamming (ledge fall possible).

A very good and airy route marred by a yucky start. Walk up the choss ledge for 2 bolts, then start laybacking. The rock is Grampians quality from bolt 3 onwards.

The first vertical crack line right of Criminal Inclinations. Climb it to the wattle tree. It may look dirty, but it's a great lead and will improve with a few ascents.

Start left hand on arête and right in a small right-facing corner. Climb straight up, mindful of the consequences of falling off to your left

Start on a good crimp rail and move straight up and over on good holds

SDS matched on a faint rail feature with a left heel-hook and move up sidepulls to the top

Climbs the tall face just left of the corner. The first moves are the hardest.

Start on the break and continue up the southern face.

Start matched on big block. Bump left near the arete and slap to the top hoping for the best.

Start as for Smells Like Roses, but head right via slopey sidepulls to easier top

Hang start on two good pinches, head straight up on good holds

Stand start on the left side of the face, climb up using slopers and edges to mantle on halfway ledge. topout.

Start on the big obvious flake. Climb up over the lip to top out, avoiding the tree dab.

Sit start on the pedestal. Up via small edges

Sit start squeezing the 'fridge'. Slap compression to the top.

Stand start the diamond shaped slab to the left of 'Pound of Flesh.' Funky, techy stand start on lowest chalked holds on the tip of the diamond. Climb trending left along good crimps to a jug, then up to the lip.

The next line R, taking the line of bolts up the centre of the easy angled face. Some nice grade 17 face climbing to half height after which the route steepens, with a tricky move through a small roof. The crux is moving up from a pedestal and overcoming a blank section to gain the top corner. The top corner groove has a couple of cruxy moves and keeps you gripped all the way to the anchors. Lower-off, but double ropes necessary.16 bolts. The first route established at the Cluan Tiers.

On the edge of the pinnacle just R of Clued Up. Balance up using 2 edges and past a little rooflet. Good warm up.

Stand start on the face of the boulder laybacking the arete. move up with bad feet and scary topout. Spotter recommended.

On the weir, sit start and up the rip boog face

Starts in chimney using the undercling flake to traverse left. continue underclinging and round the lip to top out around the left arete.

Sit start at triangle, and up to RH arete. Traverse left turning lip at set back jug. Slab to finish.

Climbs the tricky overhanging wall just left of the arete.

Central line and a Hillwood classic. Balancy face climbing that keeps you thinking until the top.

Arete on the right hand end of the cliff

Link up starting up No Antidote, heading up left and finishing as for Viral Infections

Line of bolts on the far right of the main face, just left of the wide crack.

LH line on the very short wall to the R of Wailing Wall main

The RH line of bolts up the overhanging prow finishing as for Jugs 'R' Us.

On the next piece of rock to the right, start on slopers and finish up the arete

Lone climb on fixed hangers up the arete L of Dad’s Verandah, and R of Demolition Crag. Carefully up to high first bolt, and step into main line at the second. Block on R is out for full grade value.

Starts just left of Pistols And Pesos.

The arete

Sit start on two good opposing sidepulls, head up straight to mantle

Sit start on good flat jug, head up and slightly right

Sit start as for previous problem and head left for the first move, then straight up

Hang start. Cool slopey traverse

Sit start up the balancy arete

Next arete around from Mark’s Mega Proj. Traverse around the lip to rock-over onto the slab above.

On the face to the left of Slabtastic is a good little wall problem. Crimpy moves to start then an easy but high top-out.

The thin crack on the right of the buttress, good protection at the top of the crack, finish up the right arete on the top boulder.

Abseil from the big shea-oak tree on the ledge to a small platform right at water level. Thin finger crack through a small roof, followed by a short section of offwidth and steep hand crack. DBB

On separate cliff. From the top of Rightman Buttress, continue upstream to the large cairn. Just past here and slightly uphill is this left trending bolted line. DBB

crack to arete via a couple of bolts and spikes.

Triple tiered line L of Eylau

The pillar left of the main Mars wall. Climbs the right arete and left face to DBB.

Down low and upstream of the buttress is a line of U bolts up a tall face and arete. DBB set a long way back and right from top of the route. Take a long cord for toproping.

Thin corner above the slab DBB

Located downstream of LMJM. Starts from ledge at top of Gabriel etc

Start from ledge half way up & R of LMJM. Follow diagonal flake out L onto arete. DBB

Face R of Son of Man with fixed hangers. Pre-clipping the first bolt is recommended. Some medium cams are useful for belay at ledge. DBB

The best pure bridging corner in the lower gorge. 30m downstream of POD climbs an easy corner to a large belay ledge. Technical stemming protected by good RPs to a DBB.

A beautiful piece of rock, starts down right in the chimney to thin crack. Pull through roof via spike and begin traversing left via hand crack. DBB high on face around left arete.

Climb the start of Double Dozen (Classic 22 trad route) to the ledge up slopy crimps in the corner.

Bolted crack & arete on far RHS of main buttress.

Cross fence and climb up face and slab to access the middle of the tall face. Thin and scary in a great position.

Corner left of bolted arete. DBB

Choose your path up the face and arete's to the DBB. Stick clip the first bolt to avoid falling down the gully.

Natural face climb on fourth belay up small wall. Tricky start, easing off towards the top.