Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Ben Lomond Northern Escarpment The Pavillion | |||||
21 | ★★ Brother Jack Straw
| 100m | |||
21 | ★★★ Sirrocco
FA: grant hyland | 100m, 2 | |||
Ben Lomond Northern Escarpment Bullfighter Buttress Area | |||||
21 | ★ The Beautiful Thing
Arête between the 2 prominent crack lines. Scramble over from ledge and belay from top of the pillar. Climb the RHS of the arête with great movement and some flakey rock | 20m | |||
Ben Lomond Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Celebration of Uncertainty
Short but sequency line visible on the eastern side of descent gully (near pillar) just as you enter the gully from the top. Reachy moves on slighty overhung thin hands - may be easier for those with smaller digits. To set toppie - walk 60m right from the climb around the butress. Then left 15m (over slab) and left again 20m along wall to cairn. Scramble down to topout ledge. FA: Anton Korsun & Brandon, 24 Feb 2021 FFA: Anton Korsun & Brandon, 27 Feb 2021 | 10m | |||
21 | ★ Captain Planet
| 65m, 3 | |||
21 | Necromancer
The line left of Die Nadal | 90m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Faith Defended
Boldly climb the vague seam-crack and arete of the pillar between Defender of the Faith and Rigaudon to a stance at the top of the pillar. Continue up either of these routes to the top. | 12m | |||
21 | ★★★ Dangerman
A classic route. Technical stemming or strenuous layback corner, take your pick! There is usually some tat around a big horn at the top of the first pitch allowing you to lower off. | 75m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★★ Aquilla
The dark corner just to the left of Barbe Di Vendetta with the singular crack line spearing straight up past a small rooflet formed by a rectangular block. Two pitches -
| 80m, 3 | |||
21 | Shinkicker
| 80m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ The Song Remains the Same
| 32m | |||
Ben Lomond Northern Escarpment Frew's Flutes | |||||
21 | ★★ Powerdive
| ||||
21 | ★ Accursed Land
| 100m | |||
21 | Gaebolg
| 120m | |||
21 | Conchubar
| 130m | |||
Ben Lomond Ragged Jack | |||||
21 | The Landing
| 30m | |||
21 | ★ It's A Long Way To Tipperary
| 45m | |||
Ben Lomond Stacks Bluff | |||||
21 | ★★★ Aqualung
Can easily be spotted by the long, perfect corner just above the little rooflets. Follow your nose up the talus to get to the base of the chimney/gully of P1. Pitch lengths are updated from guide description to be more accurate.
FA: Lyle Closs/Ian Lewis | 150m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Maggie May
| 100m | |||
Ben Lomond Pavement Bluff | |||||
21 | ★ Pologhda
| 60m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★★ Bloodrunner
| 80m, 3 | |||
Blackwood Rocks McGifford's Edge | |||||
21 | ★ Flake and Chips
| 15m | |||
21 | ★ Stairway to Heaven
| 18m | |||
21 | ★ Healing of the Nations
| 15m | |||
Blackwood Rocks Training Wall Area | |||||
21 | ★★★ Cabin Fever
| 10m | |||
Blackwood Rocks American Woman Area | |||||
21 | ★ Back to the Black
The line of bolts up the groove with a tree, through broken face to a roof and then up headwall and arete to the top DBB. The tree can be slung for the first piece. FA: Ian Ferrier | 20m, 14 | |||
21 | Lord of the Flies
Long broken major corner at left end of final buttress | 18m | |||
Blackwood Rocks Top Tier The French Touch area | |||||
21 | ★ Manfern
The perfect looking little face just around the corner. Surprisingly atmospheric and exposed for its diminutive size, as it's mostly climbed up the exposed arete. Bolting is a bit less friendly than the other routes. FA: Ariel Halperin & Matilde Pouillot | ||||
Blackwood Rocks Top Tier No Easy Roots area | |||||
21 | ★ No Easy Roots
The route with the giant hole down low. A beta-dependent crux. FA: Ariel Halperin, 2023 | 15m | |||
Blackwood Rocks Top Tier Christmas Rope area | |||||
21 | ★★ Something's Off
Starts on the ledge above (fixed rope). Climbs the obvious arcing crack. Bring a #1 or #2 cam for between the final bolt and the anchor if you're not confident jamming (ledge fall possible). A very good and airy route marred by a yucky start. Walk up the choss ledge for 2 bolts, then start laybacking. The rock is Grampians quality from bolt 3 onwards. FA: Ariel Halperin, 8 Aug 2023 | 25m | |||
Brady's Lookout Main Cliff | |||||
21 | L'Immoraliste
The first vertical crack line right of Criminal Inclinations. Climb it to the wattle tree. It may look dirty, but it's a great lead and will improve with a few ascents. FA: J. Fantini, 1980 | 10m | |||
Brady's Lookout Tourist Boulder | |||||
V2 | Dead battery
Start left hand on arête and right in a small right-facing corner. Climb straight up, mindful of the consequences of falling off to your left | 3m | |||
Brady's Lookout Satellite boulder #2 | |||||
V2 | ★★ Mars
Start on a good crimp rail and move straight up and over on good holds | 2m | |||
Brady's Lookout Two Step Boulder | |||||
V2 | Two step
SDS matched on a faint rail feature with a left heel-hook and move up sidepulls to the top | 3m | |||
Brady's Lookout Circus Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Zebra
Climbs the tall face just left of the corner. The first moves are the hardest. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Postcard
Start on the break and continue up the southern face. | ||||
Brady's Lookout Old Brady Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Old Bradys Slapper
Start matched on big block. Bump left near the arete and slap to the top hoping for the best. FA: Liam, 4 Feb 2022 | 2m | |||
Brady's Lookout Undertow Boulders | |||||
V2 | ★ Smells Like Teen Spirit
Start as for Smells Like Roses, but head right via slopey sidepulls to easier top FA: Tommy Krauss, Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Chicken Salt
Hang start on two good pinches, head straight up on good holds FA: Kris Penn, Sep 2021 | 2m | |||
Brady's Lookout Playground Area | |||||
V2 | ★ Sweaty Kid on the Slippery Slide
Stand start on the left side of the face, climb up using slopers and edges to mantle on halfway ledge. topout. | 2m | |||
V2 | Carnival Day
Start on the big obvious flake. Climb up over the lip to top out, avoiding the tree dab. FA: Ali Roush | ||||
V1 - 3 | Jungle Gym
Sit start on the pedestal. Up via small edges | ||||
Brady's Lookout Berry Picking Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Fridge full of berries
Sit start squeezing the 'fridge'. Slap compression to the top. | 2m | |||
Brady's Lookout Waterwheel Boulders | |||||
V2 | ★ Find Your Feet
Stand start the diamond shaped slab to the left of 'Pound of Flesh.' Funky, techy stand start on lowest chalked holds on the tip of the diamond. Climb trending left along good crimps to a jug, then up to the lip. FA: Kris Penn, 23 Aug 2022 | ||||
Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | |||||
21 | ★★ Blues Clues
The next line R, taking the line of bolts up the centre of the easy angled face. Some nice grade 17 face climbing to half height after which the route steepens, with a tricky move through a small roof. The crux is moving up from a pedestal and overcoming a blank section to gain the top corner. The top corner groove has a couple of cruxy moves and keeps you gripped all the way to the anchors. Lower-off, but double ropes necessary.16 bolts. The first route established at the Cluan Tiers. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2006 | 40m | |||
21 | ★ Cluemidia
On the edge of the pinnacle just R of Clued Up. Balance up using 2 edges and past a little rooflet. Good warm up. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2017 | 15m, 8 | |||
Derby Cascade River Tin Mine Entrance | |||||
V2 | Pickaxe
Stand start on the face of the boulder laybacking the arete. move up with bad feet and scary topout. Spotter recommended. FA: Sam Bycroft, 7 Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
Distillery Creek Whiskey Weir | |||||
V2 | R.I.P boog
On the weir, sit start and up the rip boog face FA: Patrick Munnings, 23 May 2021 | 2m | |||
Distillery Creek Prohibition Hill | |||||
V2 | Wild Turkey
Starts in chimney using the undercling flake to traverse left. continue underclinging and round the lip to top out around the left arete. | 6m | |||
V2 | ★ Pisco Sour
Sit start at triangle, and up to RH arete. Traverse left turning lip at set back jug. Slab to finish. FA: Nick Morgan, Feb 2022 | ||||
Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso The Leviathan | |||||
21 | ★ Indecent Obsession
Climbs the tricky overhanging wall just left of the arete. | 6m | |||
21 | ★★ Yuddy Boody Noo
Central line and a Hillwood classic. Balancy face climbing that keeps you thinking until the top. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999 | 15m | |||
21 | ★★ Psoriasis
Arete on the right hand end of the cliff FA: Gerry Narkowicz & John Fisher, 1999 | 15m | |||
21 | Impossible Love
| 8m | |||
21 | ★ No Antidote for Floating in Yuddy Pale Blue Viral Infections
Link up starting up No Antidote, heading up left and finishing as for Viral Infections | ||||
Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall | |||||
21 | ★ Sugar Mountain
Line of bolts on the far right of the main face, just left of the wide crack. FA: Norm Selby & Glenn Learmont, 1999 | 10m | |||
21 | ★ Wild Eyes, Crazy Heart
LH line on the very short wall to the R of Wailing Wall main | 8m | |||
Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso The Dungeon | |||||
21 | ★ Up There Cazaly
The RH line of bolts up the overhanging prow finishing as for Jugs 'R' Us. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999 | 10m | |||
21 | ★★ Back to the Battle
On the next piece of rock to the right, start on slopers and finish up the arete | 9m | |||
21 | ★★ Smashing Idols
| 10m | |||
Hillwood (private land) Matto Grosso Patagonia | |||||
21 | ★ Thin Ice
| 10m | |||
Hillwood (private land) Rock Of Ages & Surrounds | |||||
21 | The Gatekeeper
| 8m | |||
21 | Deep Purple
Lone climb on fixed hangers up the arete L of Dad’s Verandah, and R of Demolition Crag. Carefully up to high first bolt, and step into main line at the second. Block on R is out for full grade value. FA: Gerry Narkowicz | ||||
Hillwood (private land) Falcon Crag | |||||
21 | ★★ Soaring to World's Unknown
| 18m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ August and Everything After
| ||||
Hillwood (private land) Cave Rock & Surrounds | |||||
21 | Blur Collar Suicide
Starts just left of Pistols And Pesos. | 8m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Grammatrain
| ||||
Hillwood (private land) The Citadels + Hidden Towers | |||||
21 | ★★ Unending Songs
The arete | 10m, 3 | |||
Hillwood (private land) Hillwood Bouldering Rock Of Ages Boulders Grytt Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Jack Jumper
Sit start on two good opposing sidepulls, head up straight to mantle FA: Tommy Krauss, Mar 2024 | 3m | |||
Hillwood (private land) Hillwood Bouldering Rock Of Ages Boulders Pyramid Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Menkaure
Sit start on good flat jug, head up and slightly right FA: Nick Morgan, Mar 2024 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Djoser
Sit start as for previous problem and head left for the first move, then straight up FA: Tommy Krauss, Mar 2024 | 4m | |||
Hillwood (private land) Hillwood Bouldering Falcon Crag Bouldering First Boulder | |||||
V2 | Bill Wilson
Hang start. Cool slopey traverse FA: Ben Thorp | ||||
V2 | First House
Sit start up the balancy arete FA: Ben Thorp | ||||
Hillwood (private land) Hillwood Bouldering Falcon Crag Bouldering Marksman Boulder | |||||
V2 | Beginners Luck
Next arete around from Mark’s Mega Proj. Traverse around the lip to rock-over onto the slab above. FA: Ben Thorp | 3m | |||
V2 | Just a Touch
On the face to the left of Slabtastic is a good little wall problem. Crimpy moves to start then an easy but high top-out. FA: Ben Thorp | 5m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Hidden Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Blood of the Lamb
The thin crack on the right of the buttress, good protection at the top of the crack, finish up the right arete on the top boulder. FA: Gerry Narkowicz & John Fry, 1986 | 15m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Offal Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Pelvic Thrust
| 15m, 1 | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Feltham Buttress | |||||
21 | ★ The Night Dweller
FA: Ng, 1989 | 12m, 2 | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Right Man Buttress | |||||
21 | ★ In Between Man
| 10m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Lady Midnight Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★★ Joan of Arc
Abseil from the big shea-oak tree on the ledge to a small platform right at water level. Thin finger crack through a small roof, followed by a short section of offwidth and steep hand crack. DBB FA: Ian Thomas, Neale Smith & Robert McMahon, 1980 | 12m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Bonanza Buttress | |||||
21 | ★ Bohnanza
On separate cliff. From the top of Rightman Buttress, continue upstream to the large cairn. Just past here and slightly uphill is this left trending bolted line. DBB FA: Norm Selby, 2003 | 13m, 5 | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Fatman Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Fear & Frothing
crack to arete via a couple of bolts and spikes. FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 12m, 3 | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side The Big Gully | |||||
21 | ★ Lutzen
Triple tiered line L of Eylau FA: J Fantini & B McMahon, 1981 | 25m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Mars Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Chardonnay Man
The pillar left of the main Mars wall. Climbs the right arete and left face to DBB. FA: Bisset & Fox, 1997 | 10m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Serenity Now!
Down low and upstream of the buttress is a line of U bolts up a tall face and arete. DBB set a long way back and right from top of the route. Take a long cord for toproping. FA: Bisset, 1997 | 16m, 6 | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Gabriel Gully | |||||
21 | ★★ Surprise
Thin corner above the slab DBB FA: Simon Parsons & Doug Fife, 1982 | 10m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Gabriel Buttress | |||||
21 | ★★ Lost in Space
Located downstream of LMJM. Starts from ledge at top of Gabriel etc | 14m | |||
21 | ★★ Son of Man
Start from ledge half way up & R of LMJM. Follow diagonal flake out L onto arete. DBB FA: G. Narkowicz, 1985 | 12m | |||
21 | ★ Hand in Glove
Face R of Son of Man with fixed hangers. Pre-clipping the first bolt is recommended. Some medium cams are useful for belay at ledge. DBB FA: Danny Ng | 10m, 3 | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Sunny Side Gabriel Amphitheatre | |||||
21 | Expiation
| 9m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Shady Side Prince of Darkness Area | |||||
21 | ★ Prince Of Darkness
| 15m | |||
21 | ★★ Vast Deferens
The best pure bridging corner in the lower gorge. 30m downstream of POD climbs an easy corner to a large belay ledge. Technical stemming protected by good RPs to a DBB. | 10m | |||
21 | ★★ Johnny The Rock Meets Gillian The Badger
A beautiful piece of rock, starts down right in the chimney to thin crack. Pull through roof via spike and begin traversing left via hand crack. DBB high on face around left arete. | 15m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Shady Side Double Dozen Area | |||||
V2 | ★ Double Dozen boulder problem
Climb the start of Double Dozen (Classic 22 trad route) to the ledge up slopy crimps in the corner. | 3m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Shady Side Moorehead Buttress | |||||
21 | ★ Strictly Ballroom
Bolted crack & arete on far RHS of main buttress. FA: M. Fox, 2003 | 10m, 4 | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Shady Side Gold 101 Area | |||||
21 | Gold 101
Cross fence and climb up face and slab to access the middle of the tall face. Thin and scary in a great position. FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Bob McMahon, 1983 | 10m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Shady Side Kohoutek Buttresses | |||||
21 | Iliocostalis
Corner left of bolted arete. DBB | 8m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Shady Side Time for an Update Area | |||||
21 | One for the Appendix
| 8m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge The Shady Side Revival Area | |||||
21 | ★ Two Ply Hammock
Choose your path up the face and arete's to the DBB. Stick clip the first bolt to avoid falling down the gully. FA: Patrick Munnings, Nov 2021 | 8m | |||
Launceston (Cataract) Gorge Penny Royal Quarry | |||||
21 | Kongo Jungle
Natural face climb on fourth belay up small wall. Tricky start, easing off towards the top. FA: Donkey Kong | 10m |