Nodes in West

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

The Mt Lyell boulder field is a huge expanse of conglomerate boulders spread all over the slopes of Mt Lyell, just outside Queenstown. If you like climbing on conglomerate then the potential here is endless! There are small sit starts all the way to Adamsfield like giants. The rock is good as the bits that are going to break are obvious and the rest is solid. The selection of problems here is just the beginning of what will be a major new area in a stunning location, with a remote mountain feel and relatively easy access.

This is the closest area to the road and the start of the boulder field. There is an obvious cave at the lake end and The Good, The Bad and The Ugly boulder is obvious towards the mine.

This is the first boulder you come to heading up towards GBU. It has a couple of OK warm up problems.

SDS straight up the center.

SDS up the left arete.

Start on the left of the boulder and traverse all the way around.

SDS, left hand on a scoop and right hand on a crimp. big move up to edge and top out. One move wonder. Stay off the left arete.

This is the big boulder to the mine end of the low area with an overhang facing in the same direction.

To the left of Blondie arete there is a nice dynamic line with an obvious pebble jug and a techy top out.

SDS low on the arete and then up to top out on the slab.

Up on jugs then slab to top out.

Up on the small crimps then slab to top out.

SDS on the uphill/shorter end, starting on 2 small crimps and poor feet with jugs to finish.

Highball straight up obvious middle line with a good high top out.

The overhanging part of this boulder has a seam running all the way round it, unsure on stability/safety.

There is a great looking line starting down low and right under the overhang and coming out left to top out without using the seam or broken piece of rock. Could be hard.

This boulder has some nice face problems at a good angle.

Starting just left of the arete for an easy rising traverse to the highest point.

Same start and head up the seam feature.

Same Start and straight up.

Straight up the blank left arete through some crimps.

A wide, flat top slab with four easy slabs and an easy traverse.

Up the left end slab/feature.

Up the blank area between the 2 features.

Up the right feature.

On the right end, slightly steep with a bit of a bulge.

Traverse from the low right end all the way round and up.

Just downhill of the easy slab is this boulder with one OK problem on it.

Up the arete on the downhill side.

This boulder is located in the middle of the low area, slightly higher and maybe 50m towards the lake from the easy slab.

Start standing under the highest part of the boulder, move straight up with good feet and two small left crimps before gaining the ledge and an easy top out.

The best line on this boulder. There a few pockets that make obvious holds, start under these with big moves and a good high jug to finish.

An area of scattered boulders between GBU and FAFDM characterised by isolated windswept pinnacles.

This boulder has an obvious break in the middle with a low angle section on the left and slightly steeper on the right.

A rising traverse starting at the far left following the obvious line of weakness.

The left arete of the break.

Rising traverse from the break.

The right arete of the break.

The right face with a nice obvious pocket.

One of the pointy wind swept looking boulders.

Rising traverse from a SDS on the downhill side.

SDS straight up to the point.

This boulder is on the mine side of the ridgeline below The Harder They Fall.

Start under the high point and straight up.

SDS down on the right as low as possible and head up to the highest point.

Another wind swept looking boulder. Further up the ridge in the direction of the lake from The Harder They Fall

SDS left hand on a pebble and right hand low in a jam. Bump up left and through the diagonal crack.

Same start but head right and walk feet up the ramp.

This area is further up the ridgeline in between the two creeks. A highly concentrated area focused on the huge roof of the FAFDM boulder. Many hard steep projects as well as quality vertical walls and some easier slabs.

These are the first two boulders you come too after crossing the creek. A nice big high ball and the smaller one to it's left.

This is a great easy high ball straight up the middle of the high ball face, with the hardest move right at the top to get the blood flowing.

Sit start in under the steepest part of the boulder, up against the small boulder on the left. Head straight up the rounded arete to easy high top out.

On the northern side of the small boulder. SDS Up the left.

On the northern side of the small boulder. SDS Up the right.

Some nice easy slabs just up the hill from The Sisters Brothers.

Start on the tufa and follow the diagonal until a vertical break leads to the top.

Straight up the centre of the face toping out at the highest point.

The right hand line of the boulder.

A nice looking high boulder with some hard projects. Right next to cowgirls.

Start in the pocket on the left of the face and head slightly left where there are holds. Could also be started out a flake in the cave on the left with a big span into the pocket.

Would be amazing if it goes. Straight up the guts if you can find some holds.

Start low on the arete and head up laybacking the arete and avoiding rocking over onto the easy slab.

A squat blocky boulder with some overlap features on the uphill side.

On the down hill side, straight up the white streak. Some hard pulling from a SDS followed by some more power to reach the lip.

This is a long low looking boulder on it's own. It has some more potential for rising traverse lines.

Start sitting under the rounded arete on the highest part of the boulder and go straight up.

A great boulder featuring a huge roof and some proud aretes. Plenty of classic projects still to do!

This is the obvious line through the highest section of the roof with the best looking rock. It shows the potential of the cave once it's seen some traffic! Start sitting on the small boulder the main one sits on top of. Use the two large pebbles for your hands and head straight out past the great pockets, then turn the lip with 2 pebbles and a crimp. Not as pumpy as FAFDM but a couple of moves might be slightly harder.

Starts sitting low on the waist-high boulder just right of For A Few Dollars More. Use the 2 ticked pockets to start, then blast through some strenuous moves to gain the juggy protruding undercling shared by FAFDM. From here head right through the roof crux (right hand out to the slot, left hand slaps to the arete) and pull through the final crimps at the lip, staying left of Hasta Luego Amigo!

The next obvious project would be to start even lower in the cave and climb into it as a mega linkup

Adds some big moves on pockets to the start of FFOF. Start at the back of the cave, perched on a boulder which appears to support the roof boulder (not quite, there is a 5mm gap). Sit start with the left cheek on this, good pocket for left hand, and nearby opposing edge for right hand. Climb into FFOF, avoid dabbing on its sit start and finish as for that.

A fantastic problem. Start right back under the roof sitting on the waist high boulder. Follow the line of least resistance out the roof for 5m then punch through the crux moves on pockets turning the lip.

For A Few Dollars More can be done from a standing start halfway out the cave and is still an enjoyable climb at a bit easier grade. Start on two obvious opposite facing pebbles, swing your feet on and top out.

SDS The short hanging arete left of the cave.

Once up and stable on the arete step right onto the face for a slightly easier finish.

Start with feet on white boulder holding the triangular shaped rock under the roof, climb up and around the roof, continue to top out

A nice bold problem in a great position on the high vertical face of the back side. Start with left on a jug pocket and right on a crimp, swing your feet on and launch to the loose looking flake/ledge(this has been pulled and stood on and seems OK ATM). Head straight up to top out.

SDS inside the cave at the end of the small left boulder. Come out through the pockets without using the other wall or jamming and continue into The Man With No Name. Could be potential to start further in the cave on top of the small boulder but it will be pretty hard.

On the boulder that the cave boulder sits on. Start crouched/hanging low on the arete traverse right and up to top out where the two boulders meet.

Starts 3m right of Clint Eastwood, under where the two boulders meet. Sit start on the left incut hold and right side pull, float up through the crimps before making a big move to the rail out left, then finishing as of Clint Eastwood

On the boulder down hill of the cave, facing the mine. SDS straight up the left end.

Stand start just left of the small purple boulder and head up and left to finish at the same spot as Take It Too The Station.

Highball, straight up the middle of the face, bit of a dodgy landing with the purple boulder underneath.

Start in the same spot as Kids These Days Don't Like Westerns and head for the highest point on the boulder. Thin tricky looking section about half way.

Stand start under the small overhang on right end, up past the overlap with some fun moves.

Some good potential on water polished boulders. During summer the landings are mostly dry unless there has been significant rainfall the day previous.

Slab boulder with a crack up the middle.

Straight up the shallow crack.

Slab line right of the crack.

Start at the base of Dunson and head up the left side of the boulder.

The prominent hillside covered in boulders. Many quality boulders with a range of height and angle. There is a huge obvious roof that looks like pride rock. Due to being sheltered behind the knoll we have found a lot of these boulders require a bit more cleaning then some of the other areas.

From FAFDM head straight up until you reach the creek in a flat spot. This boulder is then on the left side of the creek with a high wide face.

Sit start on the lowest end of the boulder, a hard start and then some nice moves.

A great problem with nice moves on good holds with a bold finish. Standing start matched on the obvious pebble and a high foot. Straight up past a nice side pull slot aiming for the two pebbles sticking out right at the top. There is a large hollow sounding piece right on top but the climbing is finished before you get to it and it seems pretty well stuck in place.

Start as for Reverse Mortgage but head right to finish on the bulgy arete, could be a scary finish above the slope.

Another great problem with some of the best holds yet found in the conglomerate. SDS with right on the nice jug below the obvious sloper and left on a pebble pinch, past the amazing crimp with some side pull's before a dynamic move to the finishing jug at the highest point.

SDS low and right of the arete, move past the great half moon hold to just below the arete and head to the highest point. An easier option can be had by starting to the left matched on the jug.

As per Styx And Stones but once on the arete rock over and go up the easy back side.

Cube looking boulder directly behind Hell or High Water.

Up the left side using the arete.