Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fortescue Bay The Candlestick | |||||
22 | ★★ Sankara
FA: Danny Wade, 2019 | 20m | |||
18 | The 'ABC' Route
FA: M Tillema, T Wood & G Kowalik, 1975 | 110m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Livin in Lutana
FA: Alex Hartshorne & John Fisher, 2019 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★★ Corner Route
1
18
30m
2
17
30m
3
15
25m
4
15
20m
60m Fixed line rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim left not right to ledge with U bolts 2m above water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup tyrolean or swim. Note 60m fixed line will initially require 10m extension with tag line to span diagonally when being dragged up from start of first pitch. Loose rock is a possibility on all pitches, hauling of spare ropes and packs is recommended.
FA: Drew Fenton & Brad Miller, 1998 | 110m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Cherry Picker
FA: Alex Bog & Chris Wallace, Jan 2020 | 70m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ The Middle Way
FA: Xinyu Zheng, Subine Pratt Hunziker & Dave James, 2 Jan 2018 | 95m, 4 | |||
16 | ★★★ Normal Route
Rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim right to an easy ledge just behind the Totem pole.
This is the chossiest route to the summit of the candlestick. Although it's the easiest, expect very poor rock and gear the whole way (last pitch excepted) | 110m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ The Wick
FA: L Closs, T Williams & S McDowell, 1981 | 110m | |||
18 | West Wall
FA: David Gray & Sebastien Meffre, 1997 | 130m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ CNG Direct Candlestick
FA: Craig Adam & Greg Thompson | 110m | |||
Fortescue Bay The Totem Pole | |||||
AID: | Gallegos Route
| 65m | |||
27 | ★★★ The Sorcerer
1
22
10m
2
25
15m
3
27
40m
A mind-blowing line. The 3rd pitch climbs the arete left of the Free Route. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding.
Gear List: • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots • 2x 30cm quick draws • 1x 60cm quick draw • 14x quick draws • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling • A ton of Psyche! FA: Garry Phillips & Chris Coppard, 2015 | 65m, 3, 9 | |||
25 | ★★★ The Free Route
1
25
25m
2
25
40m
FA: Steve Monks, Simon Mentz (alt.), Jane Wilkinson & Simon Carter., 1995 | 65m, 2, 8 | |||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play
Popular variant first-pitch to 'The Free Route'. Mostly Bolts, a few pieces of small trad gear where the climbing is easier. FA: Steve Monks & Enga Lokey, 1999 | 20m, 6 | |||
AID:A3 | ★★★ Original Aid Route
FA: John Ewbank & Alan Keller, 1968 | 65m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★★ The FreeD Route
1
25
2
26
3
27
4
17
The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell. | 70m, 4 | |||
Fortescue Bay Cape Hauy Cliffs | |||||
25 R | Candle in the Wind 110m 25
1
24
15m
2
25 R
30m
3
23
30m
4
18
25m
3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap :IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge. Start: Follow the Cape Huay track (1.5 Hrs) all the way to the the end, don\'t turn off as for the Totem Pole, but continue to un-fenced rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left(looking out). The route is 100m south of the Totem Pole,ie towards Cape Pillar.
FA: Steve Monks & Adrian Laing, 2006 | 100m, 4, 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ Candle in the Wind
1
24
15m
2
25
30m
3
23
30m
4
18
25m
3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap: IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.
FA: Steve Monks & Adrian Laing May, 2006 | 100m, 4, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Swell Repeller
Two pitches of stunning arêtes, both of which are fully bolted. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell. The route is on the mainland cliffs facing the Totem Pole. Fix a 60m rope to DBB as for the Totem Pole access, but rap diagonally towards Cape Pillar (SE), heading down a scungy corner to a ledge with a DBB belay. Continue rapping down the wall below, L of knife blade arête, to arrive at a small ledge about 5m above the ocean with another DBB.
FA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2006 | 55m | |||
18 - 20 | ★ Unknown 1
This is directly under the rap anchors for the Totem pole and starts on a large ledge level with the ledge on the tote. Up fist crack widening to offwidth, a small roof then back to hand crack and thinner to top. Alternate start 1m right up nice layback crack for 5m then traverse left into offwidth. | 35m | |||
Unknown 2
| 35m | ||||
Fortescue Bay The Safe House | |||||
21 | Plastic Machete
| 12m | |||
18 | Riff Raff And Rug Rats
| 12m | |||
20 | Flock Of Dolphins
| 12m | |||
19 | Seal Of Approval
| 12m | |||
19 | Morning Swim
| 12m | |||
21 | Pissin' In The Wind
| 15m | |||
15 | Don't Drink Yellow Sea Spray
| 15m | |||
15 | Dunkirk
| 15m | |||
Fortescue Bay Fortescue Bay Crag | |||||
10 | ★ Hang 5
Rappel into the chimney chasm furthest point climbers left on the ramp. FA: Ed Maddison & Benny Plunkett, 5 Feb 2023 | 15m | |||
21 | ★ Inventure
The striking arete south of Grey Nurse, easy climbing to a high crux. FA: Michael Lehmann, 5 Feb 2023 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Eeeeeeee (The Dolphin Noise)
Obvious crack line climbers far left on the ramp, slopey ledge belay (10m), 20m up classy corner to topout. FA: Kiera Schulz & Michael Lehmann, 5 Feb 2023 | 30m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Grey Nurse
Striking prominent arete in the far left zawn, quality climbing on friable rock. FA: Nick Hancock & Ken Palmer, Mar 2023 | 12m | |||
19 | Nurse Shark
The arete closest to the bay, short and punchy. FA: nick hancock & Ken Palmer, 2004 | 6m | |||
14 | Hightail the High Tide
The easiest route to bail out from if the tides are giving you grief - following the split where the wall joins the sloping ramp, then traversing right & up the bulging block to the she-oak. A bit of a wander... | 18m | |||
18 | ★ The Rhyme Of The Ancient Mariner
| 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Kelpie
| 15m | |||
18 | ★ Unnamed
| 20m | |||
18 | ★ Thank Christ For Bass Strait
| 20m | |||
23 | Jesus Without the Nails
R of TCFBS via 7 carrots | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Windscape
| 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Blythe Star
| 18m | |||
17 | ★ Sunny Gym
| 10m | |||
16 | ★ Exit Route
| 10m | |||
16 | the other exit route
| 10m | |||
Fortescue Bay Bivouac Bay Crag | |||||
16 | ★ Don't take my baby
Nice climbing up the box groove, with a convenient tree to rap-off at the top. FA: Chris Lang, Alex Doyle & March 2024, Mar 2024 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★★ Cake or Death
It's definitely cake! Take the committing line through the left of the enormous roof to the face crack and face to the top. For now rap off a tree near the top. Anchors and a bolt will be installed at some point - somewhat spicy (but safe) topout until this happens. Micro cams (.1 and .2) and a small (yellow) offset nut or cam recommended. FA: Chris Lang & Alex Doyle, Mar 2024 | 18m | |||
19 | ★★ Life Starts at No.5
The striking flake / off-width. Jam, layback and struggle up the prominent line to a lower-off. Take a couple #4 and #5 cams. Quite unique, and not bad for this sort of thing. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer, Martin Brown & Chris Lang, Mar 2024 | 18m | |||
17 | Are you serious
The crack/groove just right of the flake, traversing left to the anchor at the top. FA: Chris Lang & Alex Doyle, Mar 2024 | 18m | |||
17 | ★★ Deceptive Casualness
Steep jamming with a nice bulge a half height. Looks 3 grades harder and is an absolute delight. Take a #4. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, Chris Lang & Alex Doyle, Mar 2024 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Blank Canvas
The appealing hand crack. Lower-off. FA: Chris Lang, Christoph Speer & February 2024, Feb 2024 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★★ Never Let Me Go
Brilliant, sustained climbing up the attractive crack in the centre of the buttress. As good as it looks. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer, Martin Brown & Chris Lang, Mar 2024 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★★ Yak to the Future
Superb technical climbing up the arete. Eight bolts to a lower off. FA: Chris Lang, Martin Brown & Christoph Speer, Mar 2024 | 20m, 8 | |||
19 | ★★ Double Agent (LH)
A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off. FA: Chris Lang & christoph speer, Feb 2024 | 18m | |||
18 | ★★ Double Agent (Direct)
A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer & Chris Lang, Feb 2024 | 18m | |||
24 | ★★★ Dr Incognito
Powerful, consistent bouldery climbing up the middle of the face and through the small roof. Eight bolts to a lower off. FA: Chris Lang, Martin Brown, Alex Doyle & Christoph Speer, Mar 2024 | 18m, 8 | |||
17 | ★ Espresso
Awkward then pleasant hand jamming up the groove crack to a lower-off. FA: Chris Lang & Christoph Speer, Feb 2024 | 17m | |||
Fortescue Bay The Moai - Mainland | |||||
16 | Exit route
the exit route from the Moai platform | 60m, 2 | |||
18 | The Firing Line
| 15m | |||
17 | The Hands Of Chaos
| 15m | |||
16 | ★★ Mr Whippy
| 15m | |||
17 | ★★ Thunderstuck
| 25m | |||
18 | Garn's Horror Climb
| 40m | |||
17 | Squeeze
| 18m | |||
Fortescue Bay The Moai | |||||
18 | ★ Burning Spear p1
| 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Burning Spear p2
| 35m | |||
22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up
The best way to do the link up is in one long pitch. Past two U bolts to a flake with good natural gear, then to the ledge (as for the end of 'Burning Spear P1') then up past bolts to DBB loweroffs. You can just lower on a 50m rope but be careful not to drop it in the sea in high winds. | 35m, 8 | |||
20 | ★★ Blunt Instrument
Past two U bolts to flake with good natural gear. Continue up to ledge to join the top of 'Burning Spear p1' | 20m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Ancient Astronaught
FA: R.Parkyn, G.Phillips & Sep, 1994 | 35m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Ancient Astronaught p2
| 10m | |||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site
Note: the first bolt is currently loose, the rap chains seem pretty lightweight. R.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Aug/94. | 30m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ The Moai Escape
A two pitch escape route to get you back up the rap route. Grade 12, 16 | 60m, 2 | |||
Fortescue Bay Golden Pillar Area | |||||
23 | ★ The Secret Ingredient is Crime
Great face climbing in a very exposed position. The route is fully bolted. Abseil 25m from visible DBBs near the arete to a small ledge with fixed anchors. FA: Chris Lang & Christoph Speer, Jan 2024 | 25m, 11 | |||
25 | ★★★ The Edge of Reason
An incredible pitch. Abseil 30m from the DBB at the start of ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ to another DBB below a roof on a sloping ledge. Climb through the roof on its right and into a finger / hand crack. Follow this until the bolts, trending left and climb the side of the arete to the anchors. Finish up either ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ or start the traverse into ‘The Pud Life’ to exit. Recommended gear; cams #0.3 to #2 with extra #0.4 and #0.5, a black offset nut, and at least 9 quick draws. FA: Chris Lang & Christoph Speer, Jan 2024 | 30m, 9 | |||
18 | Beyond the Edge of Reason
Some choice quotes from the first ascentionist: "Climbed a choss first pitch from the ground (kayak access) ...wouldn’t recommend ...some of the worst rock imaginable... it's quite impressive how bad some of the sea cliff Dolerite can be. It looks compact and then just sheds scales." Despite the sage words, the kayak approach may mean the pitch is worth repeating. Take a triple rack including big gear (#3 & #4) if you want it to be a bit more pleasant. FA: Tom Baanders & Sarah Groth, Mar 2024 | 40m | |||
17 | ★★★ The Pud Life
Likely the best pitch of grade 17 on the Peninsula. Well-protected. From the belay ledge clip the low bolt to the right and traverse 2m right to the base of a hidden hand-crack. Follow this to a stance at a small ledge with a roof. Traverse airily right 2m to gain the base of another hidden clean crack. Follow this and the face above to the top. Either traverse right at the lip to gain the DBB or top out and belay from a tree using something to protect the bark. Recommended gear; double rack of cams, with an extra #2 and #3. Only one #4 needed, #1 not required. Access as for ‘The Secret Ingredient…’. FA: Chris Lang & Christoph Speer, Dec 2023 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ The Salty Swine
Two stellar pitches of sustained crack climbing. The route is so named because of a large pink algal bloom making shapes in the ocean below during the FA. Well protected with a full trad rack, including a set of wires and double rack of cams from BD #0.2 - #3. Extra cams around finger size and a #4 are useful. Access to the start of the route is from double bolts 20cm over the edge of the cliff (you can use the large tree about 5m from the edge to help access these if you wish - use a sling on the tree to protect it). Two 25m abseils from the DBBs takes you to the start of the route at a small ledge at the base of a large twin-edged flake.
FA: Christoph Speer & Chris Lang, Jan 2024 | 50m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ The Golden Pillar of Fortescue
Locate a pair of carrot bolts in horizontal rock on top of the pillar, these may be covered by foliage. Alternatively look for the DBB at the end of the third pitch close to the carrots described earlier. The DBB can be reached from the top and is in vertical rock on the north-east side of the pillar 30cm over the edge. Abseil with a 60m fixed rope, or, if brave, abseil in three pitches, from double bolts, using a single 60 metre rope. You will need eight hangers and a dozen draws, a medium wire (No 5 Rock) and Cams 0.4,0.5,0.75, 1 (BD C4s). The route is equipped with a mixture of stainless expansion bolts with hangers and (bash-in!) stainless carrots, and is somewhat runout in places. There could be another pitch below.
FA: S Monks & S Findlay, 2003 | 60m, 3 | |||
Fortescue Bay Canoe Bay Crag | |||||
13 | Below Deck
Up the twin cracks in the first little alcove on the left, just before you approach the main crag near the waterline. Belay on shrubs and walk-off left through the scrub (crux). FA: Christoph Speer, Rach Chong & Nov 2022 | 8m | |||
15 | ★ The Jolly Roger
Pleasant face climbing on big holds. Start in the middle of the wall and trend left and up the groove past some cam pockets to the arete, then move back right and up following the diagonal crack. Lower-off. FA: Roger Parkyn, Christoph Speer & Oct 2022 | 12m | |||
18 | ★★ The Kraken
Jam up the steep hand crack to the bush, then bridge airily across the groove (looks unlikely from the ground) to finish up the final few metres of Davey Jones’ Locker. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer, Cameron Semple & Roger Parkyn | 18m | |||
18 | ★★ Davey Jones’ Locker
The watery grave. If you’re questioning the grade you’re probably climbing it wrong. Lower-off. FA: Zack Lazatin, Jemma Herbert & Nov 2022 | 18m | |||
18 | ★★ Parlay
There was considerable debate about the grade on this route. Fantastic climbing on great rock up the LHS of the arete. Start at the middle of the face below the undercut. Move past this to the flake (good wires and finger sized cams), pull past this to a good small wire, then continue up the superb steep arete on its LHS. Finish at the shared Sea Legs anchor around the right of the arete. FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Sea Legs
Thoughtful climbing up the open corner to the lower-off. Excellent small / medium wires and cams. Highly repeatable. FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn | 13m | |||
23 | ★★ Rum on the Rocks
Photogenic & the South Cliff classic. Well-protected climbing up the overhanging finger crack. Sustained moves in the first half, before breaking out right to the good flake. After this, trend left and up to crank through the steep headwall on good holds, finishing up the final corner (save a BD #0.5) at the top. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer | 16m | |||
20 | ★★ The Peg Leg
Exciting climbing up the steep shallow corner and arete (peg leg). Up the crack to the first roof, pull left under this and then traverse across the fantastic featured face. Pull around and into the corner to finish as for Rum on the Rocks. Save a BD #1 for the traverse and #0.5 for the top corner. FA: Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn & Cameron Semple | 17m | |||
19 | ★ Phishing
Sustained climbing up the wall left of The Sirens Call. Start by climbing the LH edge of the flake to a stance, then trend left and up the slab to the horizontal break. Finish up and right into the final few metres of The Sirens Call. Take small to medium wires, plenty of finger-sized cams and a BD #3 and #4 for the top. FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend | 16m | |||
16 | ★ The Sirens Call
Continually interesting climbing up the eye-catching line to the lower-off. The leaning block is keyed-in but take care. A BD#4 for the top is useful. FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend | 17m | |||
17 | ★ Three Sheets to the Wind
Neat climbing up the face and blunt arete. Climb up and into the alcove, carefully place some gear, then crank straight through the roof and up the pocketed face. Mantle to the ledge, then follow the flake on the blunt arete before a final mantle to finish and lower-off. Take finger sized cams and wires. FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn | 16m | |||
18 | ★ Treasure Chest
Sustained climbing up the featured face on jugs, pockets and flakes. Finish up left of the arete at the top, then clip the shared lower-off on the right of the arete. Take a cam for the horizontal at the start, and a BD #1 for a pocket before the first bolt. FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn | 12m | |||
15 | Blistering Barnacles
Enjoyable and well-protected climbing up the highly featured face and crack. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend | 12m | |||
18 | Abandon Ship
Up the blocky crack/face, plug some gear in the horizontal at 2/3rds height, then abandon ship and do a memorable traverse left (crux) to finish up Blistering Barnacles. FA: Christoph Speer & Zack Lazatin | 13m | |||
19 | ★ Peppercorn Crack
Tricky start up the LH wall to enter the bottomless hand crack, then steep laybacking and jamming to the top and lower-off. Nice climbing but the rock is a little peppery. FA: Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn & Oct 2022 | 12m | |||
17 | Pillage & Plunder
Nice bridging and finger jamming up the wide-angle corner with good protection. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn | 12m | |||
17 | ★ My Son Niko
A great companion route to Just Right. Up through the bulge as for Just Right, then traverse left across the wall following the line of holds into the next crack line. Follow this to the top and step right to the anchor. Good protection. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend, 11 Jun 2023 | 18m | |||
17 | ★★ Just Right
Starting on the far left of the crag where the ledges peter out, belay in a small undercut and head straight-up through the bulge and the excellent (just right) crack to the top. Lower-off. FA: Fraser L-R & Christoph Speer | 17m | |||
8 | ★ Just Because
Halfway between Just Right and Smooth Sailing is a thin crack. Up this and the proceeding juggy staircase above which ends on a small pillar. Step right above the void and belay/abseil from the anchor on smooth sailing. Quite a good ramble. FA: Amps & Chris Speer, 14 Jan | 16m | |||
15 | ★★ Smooth Sailing
An excellent lead for the grade. Just left of the Arete from Maiden Voyage, start-up the corner / hand-crack on excellent holds, then traverse left into the splitter hand-crack and follow this to the top. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer & Gina Sorensen | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ The Bow
Engaging and thought-provoking climbing up the arete and its face on the RHS. A range of cams and two Us lead to the top. Lower-off. FA: Christoph Speer & Liam Mangan-Smith, 2023 | 16m | |||
13 | Maiden Voyage
A subterranean experience climbing through the crack-line and chimney, just right of the pointy blocky arete. Belay at top and then abseil off using the Smooth Sailing anchor. FA: Alex Lawson & Christoph Speer | 16m |