Ascents in South East by Josh Ellis

The "23" curse continues. Maybe something's fallen off because I tried the crux everywhich way and literally couldn't do the moves free. 🤷‍♀️

I'd like to say I was just cleaning the start of "skywalker" but I actually couldn't clip the chains on this lol

Grade 26 climbing + grade 28 rope drag = grade 27 I guess. 😂

Really fun climbing through the roof, but the rope drag was heinous first go, faffed around re-equipping it second then got pumped out faffing with spinning alpines on the third.

Moves came together super quick though, basically just the lip that took some figuring out. The crux is rope drag/equipping faff.

Rope drag reduction beta:

Unclip draws 1 + 2 once you're past them, extend draw 5 (the stealth bolt in mini roof) with a double length dogbone (NOT an alpine cos they suck to clip on an overhang 😂) then same again for the "middle" roof draw (or just skip?) another double length for the last bolt. Do the last move and DON'T clip the chains just touch 'em and whip as the drag/angle on the rope on the lower off is hectic.

Easiest 23 I've ever fallen off of. I've even seen someone do it before so god knows how I missed the huge jug. 🤷‍♀️

After losing so much skin on “Gun Ho” the heinous start crimp finished off my tips and had to shamefully retreat. Took a battering to the skin and the ego the last couple of days…

Basically aid climbed the first 3 bolts with a stick clip! Made all the moves but a lot of them just feel too low percentage to link. Sacrificed so much skin too!

Bit reachy and a bit sandy, probably way harder if you’re shorter.

Weird mantly ledgy thing. Not sure I’d do that again tbh.

Punted like a bellend cause I missed a massive tick/jug. Pretty chill second go.

Pretty crusisy, good/occasionally loose holds. Probably a good intro to roof climbing for someone at the grade.

Cruised up to the lip, fucking heinous mantle, punted off. Finally pulled up on some weird nipple things/mossy slopers like a cat scrambling out of a bath tub. I feel like I missed something cause it was more desperate than “hard”. There’s also no anchors just a single bolt at the top but you’ve basically topped out by then anyway? 🤷‍♀️

Moves are cool, probably workable.

Sit starts are hard!

Felt bloody nails, that “pocket” sucks!

Pretty spicy but felt workable.

Bit of a shaky one! Bit of NYE celebration hangxiety I think! Lovely route thought. Probably one of Caroline Chang’s best efforts of the trip!

Great lil’ number as well! Probably a grade harder than white noise imo, definitely has a more defined crux/bit harder to read.

Great value, just keeps going!

Happy to repeat the classic to give Caroline Chang a go.

Left some statics for the escape, went up on the micro trax which was quite smooth actually. Pretty hard with a big pack after a day of climbing!

Did it as two pitches as described but the belay ledge is super awkward and a pain with an 80m rope, would suggest doing as one (maybe it’s too wondery 🤷‍♀️). Either way great fun/exposure. Totally worth pumping myself out flaking the 80m three times over because of my terrible rope management!

Punted the onsight at the (very balancey) crux. Pretty different climb with the 4th draw in/extended! Weather had gotten pretty moody by the second go to add some excitement!

Not really my cup of tea, more of a trad vibe but I didn’t take any alpines so the rope drag was the crux. Either way I remember trying this years ago and bailing as I was too scared.

Mega! Bit annoying I fell off at second draw, lowered, jumped back on and went to the top with relative ease. Could blame the condys but I’m just a wanker.

Repeat to clean.

Foot slipped on first move, weighted the rope like 10cm of the ground, lowered to the ground then sent well raging. Actually one of the better routes here, just pissed I dropped an easy onsight.

Also a rock climb.

Putting the draws on for Caz, nice lil climb.

Definitely a rock climb.

Great climb, need new pants now due to exciting bolting.

The Arapilian esque rock only lasts for about 2 metres. 😂 Grade is pretty concentrated!

Bit of a mossy quest, alright at the top though.

Fun lil number!

Fun sideways tomfoolery! Dropped the onsight but took a couple of tries to sus the beta, so don’t reckon I would’ve gotten it either way. Second “go” was silly mistake down low. Third go felt pretty cruisey with the right beta.

Lovely climbing up to a sopping wet mid section, punted off, tried to dry some of the holds but just too many key holds super soppy. Seems like a lovely climb though. Keen to try when dry.

Lovely lil number!

This took me way too many goes lol. 😂

Was pretty determined to do it first go of the day, stared confident, felt good on the wall, remembered my beta perfectly... Foot slipped at the crux.

Got 'er done second shot of the day.

 

1. Was trying to soak up beta for the flash, fell at the second move. 😂

2. ell around the 3rd draw. She’s a sequencey bitch. Somehow got spooked by the run out, despite having already done it.

3. Should’ve done it this go, fucked up the crux.

4. Was angry about previous go, climbed as such.

5. Climbed it good again, just ran out of beans, tried pretty hard and took a decent whip, glad I tried again though.

Warm up.

 

1. Putting the draws on, spent quite a while trying the crux section a few different ways, none really felt particularly decent percentage.

2. After seeing Will Gregson nearly flash the thing, I settled on the beta he used, tried real hard, hit the jug at the crux but cut feet and dropped with a suitable amount of screaming. Pulled back on and finished, came down feeling like it was do-able.

3. Was pretty efficent up to the rest but definetly was feeling the previous goes, went up to the crux determined and pulled it off through sheer stubbornness that I didn't want Willy to beat me.

Tried this about a year ago but the crack was seeping so I was a bit spooked. Felt good today, went first try, fun warm up.

Nearly fell off like the second move somehow! Other than that felt pretty comfortable. I’d probably give it 23 tbh. Fun lil jaunt to finish good day of climbing.

 

1. Could not work out a sequence for the top at all. Did not feel possible.

2. After watching Will Gregson and gsmizz find sequences that worked for them, tried Will’s on the second burn and to my surprise it went. 🤷‍♀️

First climb of the day, felt miles better while fresh! Will Gregson put the draws on this time too which definitely helped. Pretty happy with this red dot.

Scrappy onsight attempt, fought up to just above half way putting the draws on but punted off!

Felt much more chill when I did the bottom smoothly second go!

Pretty bloody pumped for the finish which was pretty exciting! Think I was more pumped from exposure than the moves!

Spicy warm up! Milked the rests tho. Managed to back-clip a draw, had to fix it, down climb, thread my self the right way through the rope then finish, what a faff!

THE climbing photo spot in Tassie! Every time I’m on this wall someone whacks the big lens out! Cool climb, definitely a little bit more technical than its neighbour but just as classy!

Repeat so Matthew Follent could lead this classic! Great time, apart from we took a single rope and got it stuck trying to pull it! Luckily gsmizz and Will Gregson showed up at just the right time to help us out!

Bloody tiring work putting the draws on!

Struggled with a bit of forearm cramp next two goes. 💪