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Description

The Mersey cliffs are situated along the south rim of the Mersey river gorge as it passes through the Gog range just northeast of the town of Mole Creek. The cliffs are a type of high quality quartzite similar to that found at Mt Arapiles.

Approach

Follow the track to the lookout (15min walk) until a sign about birds (last sign before the lookout). Turn right down an obvious track for 150m

Routes

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Grade Route

Short buttress that extends East from entrance trail. Routes described from R to L

Blunt arete on RH end of cliff with a tricky crux. Single bolt lower-off.

FA: Polinski, 2012

Climb past two small bulges through bouldery moves to a thin vertical seam and a brief respite at a side-pull jug before a final few strenuous moves back left to gain the anchors. Climbing straight up from the jug via the dirty crack knocks off a grade and the star.

FA: Polinski, 2012

Start up easy terrain to gain a high first bolt. Continue up with increasing difficulty to a final crux at the finish. Single bolt lower-off

FA: Polinski, 2012

Large overhanging orange and white cliff at the bottom of the approach gully

Bolted arête left of Tomohawk buttress.

Best route at the crag, the left hand line of bolts on Tomahawk Buttress. Crank up the overhang to a crux about 1/3 height, then all way to anchors via a technical face below the victory jugs. Awesome route

FA: Williams, 2004

A link up that climbs first 3 bolts of Unrequited going right into Tomahawk

FA: Thorp, 2012

A very hard boulder starts off this route on the polished face below the first 2 bolts, then straight up to top as climbing backs off a little nicely to the lower offs

FA: Polinski, 2012

Link up that takes the start of tomahawk and crosses into and finishing up Unrequited

FA: Polinski, 2012

Powerful thin climbing through the bulges

FA: Polinski, 2012

A few hard moves off ground to obtain the low break, into a hard crux section after the first roof, into easy ground to the lower offs at the top.

FA: Polinski, 2012

This is a crux section dodge around for Art of Deception, which traverses slightly right after the first roof along the flat jugs, up arete and back left at the next roof to continue to the top. Good climbing.

FA: Polinski, 2012

3m right at the right end of tomahawk buttress, climb the last line of bolts on the wall then join into Art Of Deception and finish at its lower offs

FA: J Trainer, Oct 2015

Continue past Tomahawk Buttress up the hill to clean vertical face

The first sport route uphill from tomahawk buttress on its own small buttress. Unknown origin

FA: Steve climber

Shady Grove sector, right wall on the main cliff line, furthest left route on wall. Climb past bolt to ledge, then up the face with nice sustained climbing towards easier ground at the top.

FA: polinski, 2012

Best route on the wall, third from the left. Classic line on top quality polished rock, sustained face climbing to the anchors on the hanging block.

One of the bolts for the loweroff is shockingly rusty and needs to be replaced.

FA: Polinski, 2012

Third on left, Shady Grove Wall. pleasant face climbing with distinct crux sections at half height and near the top. 4 bolts and lower offs

FA: Polinski, 2012

excellent climbing up the streak on right side of the wall, crux near the top of the wall.

FA: Polinski, 2012

Starts just left of Room With A View. Thin start, and try to stay off the ramp to the R at the second bolt.

Start on the furtherest right edge of the the buttress. Climb steeply at the start and stay on the left face of the arete upto the corner and then face above.

Head down the hill between Shady Grove and Tomahawk Buttress past a few cairns to a small overlook. Abseil from the anchors in the corner down over the face to the large vegetated ledge below (25m). BE ADVISED that if you pull your rope and can't get yourself up a 23 at least bolt to bolt or climb a fairly committing 21 trad then your prospects of getting up off the ledge would be fairly grim.

Start in the obvious corner just left of the abseil. Climb up the vertical crack feature and just before the top head bravely out right to the ledge and anchors of the abseil.

FA: Polinski, 2012

Climb up the well bolted face on the lower tier. Great sustained technical climbing, 11 bolts plus rap anchors.

FA: Gerry Narowicz, 2012

Climb up the corner of the nice open book dihedral right of the abseil. Place your last piece at a horizontal break, take a deep breath, and head up the face (crux just above the last piece) and a committing run out to anchors.

FA: Polinski, 2012

Start up the grey face 1m right of the corner. Best to stick clip the first bolt or climb the easy corner and lean across and clip the bolt to start. Can be done with a variant start at grade 18, which climbs the corner for the first 4m (clip the other bolt) and joins the action at the second bolt.

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