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Mordor

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Access issues inherited from Doctors rocks

Doctors Rocks is a conservation area so make sure to keep your impact on the natural environment to the absolute minumum. Be aware that this is a penguin colony so it is best to avoid being there at dusk when they come ashore. Mostly their burrows are away from the bouldering on the sides of the headland but there may be some amongst the boulders. No Dogs.

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

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Routes

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Grade Route

Ocean facing side of the first boulder the Mordor sector. Right hand hold and swing out left over the water to gain a solid left foot. Up through the scoop to the summit.

FA: Fil Kindblad, 25 Dec 2017

Low tide only. Stand start below the bulge on the ocean side of the first boulder. Up through the scoop as for First Breakfast.

FA: Fil Kindblad, 25 Dec 2017

Overhanging corner on the ocean side of Ruby Right boulder. Sit start in the bottom of the abyss, lay back up the corner while avoiding boulders below and behind.

FFA: Fil Kindblad

FA: Fil Kindblad, 24 Dec 2017

Sit start same as tramp stamp, follow the crack left and up.

FA: Chris L, 4 Jan 2019

Sit start at the two pockets and up the face.

Up the arete to the right of Tramp Stamp.

Easy face right of V0.

Start with hands in the break, feet on the slopey overhang. Rock over, hug the block to the pinnacle. Don't fall.

Hang start with poor feet. Left hand in vertical slot and right hand on lowest pinch.

Sit start at the arete, up to the right.

Sit start and up the arete.

SDS.

FA: Moses, 2019

SDS.

FA: Moses, 2019

SDS.

FA: Moses, 2019

SDS. Can be done in either direction

FA: Moses, 2019

Sit start on the right and follow the break right round the boulder to top out up the back.

SDS Up the right arete.

Start in the break and top out up the slab.

On the boulder behind to the left. Sit start with feet as low as possible, hands on each arete and straight up.

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