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Stand start. Straight up the centre of the face.

FA: K. Bolton

Sit start on left down point. Straight up face.

Start low and left with right hand on a bad sloper in the roof. Move up and right, avoiding the jugs on the centre of the face, finish up the right side of the face.

Left line of bolts.

FA: Ben Young & Moses Basset

Centre line of bolts

FA: Ben Young & Moses Basset

Right line of bolts

FA: Ben Young & Moses Basset

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start matched on the big rail, up to the arete and top out. Nice moves on jugs the whole way.

FA: Moses

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start low on small holds, heel hook and straight up through side pulls.

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start right hand on a side pull and left on perfect square sloper and go straight up.

Easy and enjoyable movement directly opposite Neuralgia.

FA: Mackenzie Lovell, 28 Jan 2020

Between Mordor and the main area in the middle of the boulder field there are some individual problems: Start on undercling then up left arête.

To get full value on this climb start in the hole at low tide. Being two boulders stacked on top of each other this feels more like bouldering. With that and the other boulders around you a fall while clipping at any point wouldn't be nice. Still some loose rock at the top.

FA: Ben Young & Moses Bassett

So far this route has been climbed by staying left of the bolts at the start for some fun 3D climbing between the two boulders. Once towards the top of the left boulder, step right and go up the face, don't top out. It's a bit contrived but quite fun.

FA: Ben Young & Moses Bassett

It's a shame this face doesn't have a nice flat landing as it would be a great boulder problem at the current height. Or if it was twice as long it would be great sport route. Head straight up past the bolts for a few very thin and quite technical moves.

FA: Ben Young & Moses Bassett

A bit average, really only one move. Needs another bolt, falling while going for the anchor results in a hard hit into the slab at the bottom.

FA: Ben Young & Moses Bassett

Sit start on the jug on the right of the arete. Climb the arete, staying mostly right and top out through the branches.

Straight up the center of the face.

FA: K Bolton

Sit-start at the base of the triangular white wall. Up using crimpers on the face and left arête to reach a jug at the apex of the triangle. From here either head straight for some excitement or cut right to traverse off.

Sit start, right of FP

Start round the corner on the jugs, loop round the bottom of the boulder then an awkward move on to the slab which is climbed to the top. Final move a little trickier than you would like in that position.

Awesome highball arête. Follow the tufa feature up the arête using a small pocket on the face to gain the jugs just below the lip. Careful on the top-out.

Brilliant face climbing straight up the middle of highball face. A piker's variant can be done by exiting out left mid-height (V2).

Just west of the Emergency Medicine area there are two quality problems together in a small depression created by the jumbled boulders:

Start on the furthest left jug. Traverse the face avoiding reaching over the lip for jugs. Top-out up the headwall. Quite pumpy. With the tide coming in the water will slowly creep up the landing and this can create some added time pressure.


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Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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