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Mary's Grange Boulders

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 82
17

Seasonality

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Description

Some great boulders on a lovely suburban beach. Sun until the late afternoon. Check the tides before coming, most problems are wet at high tide.

Access issues inherited from Taroona Beaches

You are very much in the public eye in this area, act accordingly.

Approach

Driving from Hobart though Sandy Bay to Taroona, turn left onto Grange Ave and park at the bottom of the hill, left or right. Follow the pathways down to the beach and you can't miss the boulders.

Ethic

It's a beach, it's the suburbs. Be nice.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs the arête/face furthest left (around the corner), staying predominately on the left face. Technical with a couple of intricate foot moves and a thought-provoking, slopey topout. A great problem!

SDS on far left of boulder, moving right up the crack then up.

Up slab center of the left face.

Stand start, left hand side pull and right crimp. High foot onto the good crimp. Soft if your tall, likely impossible if your short.

FA: Michael Lehmann, 4 Jan

Start from edge, up and right on small holds in seam.

Up slab.

Up groove.

Up far right end.

Diagonal line from right to left. Start on 7 finish up 5.

SDS on pedestal with hands on the broken shelf. Up right to small ledge, match and top out left using only the offwidth. Feet aren't allowed on the starting shelf. Named for the sexy-type bikini shoot happening at time of FA.

SDS. Keep your feet on the lower right or centre slabs exclusively for more fun.

SDS and mantle.

SDS and slabby mantle.

SDS on thin ledge and delicate feet. Right to slopey jug then leftish to top out.

Start as for Salty, match jug then right to crimpy sidepull. Top out in middle of boulder.

Arete right of SE. SDS with one hand on either side, top out on right side.

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