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Routes in Tasmania

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 6,232 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
South East Hobart and surrounds Fruehauf
18 Mononeuron Top rope 23m
24 Leger Frenzy Top rope 18m
17 Bedside Manners are Extra Sport 18m
21 Plastic Extras

This has now been bolted.

Sport 18m
21 Plastic Erection Sport 18m
25 The Chodd Sport 18m
27 Cadwallada Sport 15m
27 Dildo Gaggin's

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

FA: T. Caldwell & S. Claus, Dec 2012

Sport 15m
26 Gun Ho Sport 15m
26 Heaps Good

Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Contrived.

Sport 15m
25 Suck Ethics

The classic of the crag

Sport 15m, 6
27 Jack Jumper Top rope 15m
25 Anaphalaxis Hobbit Varient

If you're too short to do the Anaphalaxis dyno then use the good initial hold to move left to bolt and then up to the horizontal break and finish as for Anaphalaxis.

Sport 15m, 5
24 Anaphalaxis Sport 15m, 5
24 Play Launch Sport 15m, 6
25 Play Launch Direct Start Sport 15m, 6
24 Wasted Daze Sport 15m
25 Wasted Daze RH Variant Finish

At the final overlap on WD make a tricky move right to join the crack. Past a U-bolt then to the WD Chains.

Sport 15m
26 Mozzie Fodder Top rope 15m
22 Dazed and Confused Sport 17m, 5
22 General Benefit Sport 15m, 4
20 General Discipline

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

Sport 18m, 4
20 Bondage and Discipline Sport 18m, 4
23 Bad Habits Sport 18m, 4
21 Gibbon Habits

Start with the 2 first bolts of Bad Habits, go right around the arête to the big hole and then up to the chains

Sport 15m, 5
23 Genital habits

Climb the crux of Genital thrust into the crux of Bad habits.

Sport
23 Genital Thrust Sport 15m
21 Gibbon Tactics Sport 15m
25 This is Steep Mum Top rope 18m
V2 Big Mutha Truckers

Large boulder to the right of the sport climbs. There is a low wave wall on the north side of the boulder. Start on the right hand side of the wave on jugs, move left to big sloper, bust to jugs and top out.

Boulder
V3 Big Mutha Trucker

Start very low on the far right of the boulder on big jug and low feet, bust out to the start of the V2 then finish. Fun but low.

Boulder
V5 Fruehauf Traverse

A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.

Boulder
V4 GH

Gun Ho - The first few moves of the various climbs can be done as boulder problems as a lot of the climbs have cruxy moves in the first 4 metres or so!

Boulder
V3 SE

Suck Ethics

Boulder
V5 JJ

Jack Jumper

Boulder
V3 A

Anaphalaxis

Boulder 3m
V3 PL

Play Lunch

Boulder
V3 WD

Wasted Daze

Boulder
South East Hobart and surrounds Waterworks Cave
Left Wall project

Start with RH undercling and LH side pull. Climb up through the steeper section of the wall.

BoulderProject 5m
Left Wall Project 2

Start on the large sandy jugs and traverse out leftwards on crimps.

BoulderProject 6m
V6 V6?

Sit start the series of edges through steep ground on the right side of the cave. Might have lost some holds since the first ascent, looks hard.

Boulder
V2 V2

Steep line of big moves between good holds to the left of Circles.

Boulder 4m
V1 Circles

Sit start below the circles on the right side of the wall.

Boulder 4m
V2 Lip Traverse

Stand start at Circles and traverse left along the line of jugs and out along the lip of the cave. Top it out, but watch for the hollow sounding jug.

Boulder 6m
South East Hobart and surrounds Waterworks Pipeline Boulders
V2 Shitless

This climb is on the obvious bulge to the left of the drain feature. Start on rail and climb up to high slab topout.

FA: 2018

Boulder
V3 Hail to the Thief (SDS)

Left hand on good sidepull. Starts left heads a little right then back left to top out.

FA: 2018

Boulder 3m
V4 The Frankest of Shadows (SDS)

Start right hand low on the arete and left hand on the spoodgy crimp.

FA: 2018

Boulder 3m
V2 The Deepest Sighs

Sharing the same arete as Frankest of shadows. Start left hand using the arete and right hand using a low side pull.

FA: 2018

Boulder 3m
V3 Hail What (SDS)

FA: 2018

Boulder
V3 Nice for What

Start on long rail and mantle with not great feet. Or crimp and highstep to victory.

FA: 2018

Boulder 4m
V4 Let's Play Twister

Start on sloped rail just right of the mossy corner. Move up and down and left via some funky moves then easy to finish up 4.

FA: 2018

Boulder
V4/5 Pink Fluid

Start as for Lets Play Twister, climb this to juggy pocket then traverse the crag via start hold of Nice for What and crimps till you join The Deepest Sighs, climb this to the top.

FA: 2018

Boulder
V10 Water Slide Project

5 meters to the right of Nice for what is a blank face with text on it. Start left and right low on the flake. Flake running up the face, with a slab top out. Project

BoulderProject
V2 Dreaming of Rocklands

Sit start at break. Up on orange slopers then jump to rail.

FA: 2018

Boulder
South East Hobart and surrounds Waterworks Quarry
V6 Pinchy the Owl

Pinch and lift the owl painted rock with one hand. Pinching from the top.

Rules if you want a clean by the book send: To "send" The owl lifter must fully straighten up (back erect, legs and hips locked out); once standing straight, the lifter must maintain control of the owl for 1 second. Then lower the owl controlled way maintaining grip until the owl has returned to the ground.

Set by Kim Walls & David Tan, 6 Feb 2019

FA: William Wardlaw-Kelly, 12 Mar 2019

Boulder 1m
V5 Local's Breakfast

The classic traverse along the base of the quarry. Start far right on "The Blind Leading the Crippled" and traverse left for 50m+, with three distinct cruxes until under the dog-leg crack (Justin's Crack). If your into "adventure bouldering" keep going and top it out on the lefthand side of the quarry.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2009

Boulder 60m
V5/6 Local's Dinner

Traverse the entire cliff from left to right.

Boulder 60m
17 Justin's Crack

FA: Justin Kennedy

Trad 7m
21 Spiderman's Arsehole

FA: Jon Tiller, 1991

Sport 7m
17 Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi

L-most line of bolts on slab, starting just behind the small tree. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'Twilight Groping'.

FA: A. Lewes & T. Helleman, 2009

Sport 10m, 4
17 Twilight Groping

Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'.

FA: Richard Marshall, 1989

Sport 10m, 4
12 Eye Bolt Route

Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains.

Sport 10m, 5
12 Paradise Found

Start with 2 bolts of 'Weetbix' traverse L then climb diagonally towards the anchor of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'

Sport 12m
15 Weetbix

R-most line of bolts on slab, 2m R of 'Eye Bolt Route'. 4 UBs to DUBB.

FA: E. Jones, T. Gilbert & G. Abell, 2009

Sport 11m, 4
17 Cheerios

Cheeky alternative start to Weetbix from the far right corner. Crimpy slab problem instead of the easy ladder of Weetbix.

Set by Gabriel Kinzler, 4 Jun

Sport 11m, 4
12 Five Four

Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

Sport 8m, 3
18 Death Unto Racists

Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

Sport 15m, 4
18 Bastard Cancer

Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'.

FA: Richard Marshall, 1987

Sport 15m, 4
17 Serial Madness

Start with 3 bolts of 'Bastard Cancer' traverse R, bolts 2-5 of 'Phantom Stone Thrower', continue up 'Ruddiocracy' then traverse to the anchor of 'Serial Driller' (crux)

Sport 25m
18 Phantom Stone Thrower

L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

Sport 20m, 5
20 Ruddiocracy

Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the UBs. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier (Aug 2017), having lost a handy jug, adding a grade (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!

FA: Guy Abell & Emlyn Jones, 2010

Sport 15m, 5
24 Les Grands Ensembles

Start just L of small roof, a few metres R of 'Ruddiocracy'. 7 FHs. Finish at same chains as 'Tour de France' & 'Serial Driller'.

FA: Richard Cockerill, 2000

Sport 20m, 7
26 Tour de France

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!) NOTE 1st bolt now U-bolt (2017). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

FA: Hamish Jackson, 1994

Sport 20m, 7
22 Driller Direct

Start at Tour de France, continue trending right on UBs to join Serial Driller. Extra UB has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last bolt. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second UB as your 1st.

FA: Tim Meech, Dec 2017

Sport 20m, 9
20 Serial Driller

Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs. NOTE: top section (to chains) is more technical due to block with holds shedding (May 2017).

FA: John Domeney, 1993

Sport 20m, 9
20 Opening Festering Wounds

Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.

FA: John Domeney, 1994

Sport 20m, 8
21 Serial driller 3.0

Start with 6 bolts of 'Totally Awesome' continue past the step for 2 bolts in 'Open Festering Wounds' traverse L in the apparent bolt face to climb the last 3 bolts of 'Serial Driller'

Sport 25m
21 Totally Awesome

Start at R end of the tall section of main slab, 2m R of 'Serial Driller'. Lots of loose rock so take care. 9 UBs & FHs to DBB.

FA: Dave Humphries, Feb 2012

Sport 21m, 9
23 Sequels of the Light

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

FA: Evan Peacock, 1992

Sport 10m, 5
21 Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I'm Talking to You Arsehole

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors.

FA: A. Rosa, 1992

Sport 10m, 4
19 COVID

A route squeezed in between PNSH and the rubbish rock to the right (use the arete to the right but don't venture further right). Kick right from the pedestal near the top to finish. Might not really be 19 but with a heavy fever and respiratory difficulty it just might be.

Set by Alan Jackson & Gabriel Kinzler, 4 Jun

Sport 10m, 5
21 Oh Joyous Lobotomy

Start shared with 'Trad Wankers Must Die'. Up easily past 3 UBs and optional FH. Then head L through steeper section past final UB to anchors. A block with the crux hold worked loose mid-2017 increasing the grade of the climb from 20 (to 21 or 22).

"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creator's hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionist's subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come."

FA: John Domeney, 1993

Sport 10m, 5
18 Trad Wankers Must Die

Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped.

FA: J. Domeney & S. Stojanovski, 1992

Sport 10m, 4
23 Urban Renewal

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

FA: Evan Peacock, 1992

Sport 10m, 5
20 Drilling in the Name of

Climb the cruxy corner to the second bolt on UR, move right to easier left trending corner line. Up to chain on JBMHD.

FA: John Domeney, 1993

Sport 10m, 5
18 Interloper

A somewhat contrived line, yet opening new possibilities. Start halfway between Urban Renewal and Jesus Built My Hammer Drill. Lower section is a crimp fest, middle section a side-pulling stepladder, upper section a cruxy blank face. Stay centred on the bolt line and do not use holds to your left (Resurrection) or right (Jesus). Finish at the same anchor as Resurrection and Drilling in the Name of. In loving memory of Majo.

FA: Gabriel Kinzler & Alan Jackson, 9 Oct 2019

Sport 10m, 4
15 Resurrection

Link up. Start up 'Jesus Built My Hammer Drill'. At 3rd UB, head L to join 'Drilling In The Name Of' at its 4th UB. Finish at 'DITNO' anchors.

FA: OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group), 2005

Sport 10m, 5
17 Jesus Built My Hammer Drill

Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors.

FA: John Domeney, 1992

Sport 10m, 4
20 The Process of Elimination

A line between JBMHD and BLTC. Avoid the temptation of the large holds on climbs either side. Possibly could be described as a bit contrived.

Sport 10m, 4
16 The Blind Leading The Crippled

Ascends the blunt arête at the R end of the cliff. Try climbing it blindfolded! 4 UBs to chains.

FA: Duncan Meerding & Paul Pritchard, 2010

Sport 10m, 4
19 Twilight Extension

Discontinued due to chossy death risk.

Sport 18m, 7
12 Eye Bolt Extension

Discontinued due to chossy death risk.

Sport 18m, 6
South East Hobart and surrounds Proctor's Road Quarry Lower Tier Back Wall
21 Cocaine Corner Sport 20m
22 Dilandia Sport 22m
25 Cold Turkey Sport 23m
25 Delerium Sport 15m
19 Hit Me Quick Sport 23m
19 Sister Morphine Direct Sport 23m
18 Sister Morphine Sport 23m
18 Opening Instructions Sport 30m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 6,232 routes.

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