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South Jawbones

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 25
  • Content Quality: Medium
17

Seasonality

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Approach

55 mins steep walk from Jawbone carpark. Follow signposted trail up to the South Jawbone Peak until approximately the point where it veers right and starts ascending more steeply to the peak. Look for a faint trail to the left which descends down the gully for awhile before veering right following cairns to South Jawbone climbs (continuing to the left leads to Blue Haze climbs)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs the right arete of the first part of the cliff encountered on the walk in. Scramble up to ledge below a prominent nose. 1 20m Corner, undercling right on overlap to tree belay. 2 25m Right and up lovely finger crack till it ends at arete. 3 15m Layback arete then up headwall.

FA: Neil Barr & Julie Flynn, 1993

Start at the cracks 6m L of Sheath and just R of the obvious chunky tree growing 6m up on the slab.

A delicious dance through a succession of thoughtful sequences that require delicate footwork to reach a series of undercuts. The start requires a large step to the right beneath an undercut with the line staying left of small bushes/gully. A belay ledge is available after 40 metres and a set of small cams will assist protection. Starts on The Terrace about 8 metres right (facing cliff) of Do Not Resuscitate Ever.

FA: Hywel Rowlands, Melissa Field, James McIntosh & Glen Donahue, 6 Sep 2015

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