The Right Side

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 8




Many buttresses and chimneys



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There will be a line for this one. About halfway up the gorge on the R side below a sort of cave on the wall about 15m up.

  1. 8m Up to then follow the L leading diagonal crack until it is possible to go up to the ledge.

  2. The second pitch is so awful its best not spoken of ha ha.

FA: Richard Smith & Eric Jones, 1983

On the slab blocked by the large orange roof. The slab is split by a crack that runs up to the L side of the roof.

  1. 20m The weakness in the middle of the slab, then move L above the tree fern and follow the crack to a stance below the overhang.

  2. 15m 15 Traverse over the guano stained block to the corner.

  3. 12m 15 Climb the overhanging crack keeping a sharp eye out for orcs.

  4. 46m Follow on the pleasant slab. Descent is to the L, to exit out the gorge.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rod Young, 1975

Start at the foot of the next buttress (the 2nd last buttress and the first without an overhanging start) Take an axe and a compass.

  1. 46m Up the buttress to a ledge.

  2. 46m Up the buttress to a tree.

  3. 14m Up to the top of the pinnacle. Not No obvious abseil points.

FA: Iain Sedgman & John Chapman, 1976

Start on the R side of the 4th buttress 150m R of Misty Mountain Hop. This has an orange roof low down.

  1. 20m 3m up the narrow gully between the buttresses, then up the L wall to the overhang. Follow the crack, then step L up onto the large ledge.

  2. 30m Up the easy slab to a ledge.

  3. 48m Up and L onto the next slab. Keep R of the sword grass and climb the wall to the tree.

  4. Up the narrowing slab to the greasy ledge.

  5. Up to the top of the pinnacle. Abseil 15m down the back.

FA: Keith Egerton & Colleen Houston, 1976

Not that easy to locate. Start at the R side of the 3rd buttress below a chimney.

  1. 43m Up the easy slab and move into and climb the chimney.

  2. 43m Up the rib.

  3. 44m To the top. Abseil or climb down the rear of the pinnacle.

FA: Nick Reeve & Gretel Lamont, 1976

This route is at the top, or back of the crag. Something to fill in the day while putting off the walk back down. Start in the cave at the rear of the pinnacle immediately north of the Regrettably Lammentable pinnacle. Bridge out of the cave and climb the crack to the top. Abseil needed to get of the pinnacle.

FA: Nick Reeves, John Chapman, Iain Sedgman & Gretel Lamont, 1976


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

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