Dad's Crag





The large outcrop a further 5 minutes walk up the valley from Hobo's


First area developed. Large Hobo cave with short overhung routes on hard Mt Alex rock.

Access issues

Directly opposite the very large boulder in the river. Look up right on the hill side and you will see the crack of "Ä Family Affair."


Either walk up the faint track straight up to the rock (there is one there somewhere) or follow directions to Hobos and walk along the track which runs next to the rock.


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Grade Route

Routes are described right to left looking at the rock. Descriptions start with the easily identified crack project.

The over hung crack on the far right of the buttress. Descent anchors only.

Mantle shelf. Short one move wonder but what a move. Fun

FA: 11 Jun 2016

Start by the large tree. Up pockets to edge of dodgy looking block. Weird mantel to anchors above ledge. About grade 16 if you wuss out and step on the very tempting tree branch.

FFA: Matthew Tranter

FA: Matthew Tranter, 10 May 2016

The next four routes start 10 metres to the right of the previous route. Bouldery start to good pockets. Anchors set back above the ledge.

FA: Matthew Tranter, 24 May 2016

The following 2 routes are 200m up the valley to the left on a small outcrop.

Up through the crumbly bands to the top. Short. Off Balance. A bit weird! 1 metre to the right.

FA: Matt Tranter, 18 Nov 2012

Up through the scoups to the steep top. Start 6 metres to the right, just past the large cave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 14 Jan 2012

The remaining routes are a further 200m up the valley to the left. Cross a dry water runnel and small cave and look for the perfect orange rock and large cave.

Up steep white wall Underneath gold steep section Up little niche on perfect grey rock, trend right and up past big pocket. Dont let your guard down up high. For a 10 metre route you are kept busy. Grade is probably 21.5

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 12 Nov 2011

FA: Simon Vaughan, 12 Nov 2011

Straight up steepness to sting in the tail finish.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Aug 2011

FFA: Simon Vaughan, Aug 2013

Short steep blunt arête.

Start dirctly under the large crack and flake.

Pull up on to the first ledge and then follow the crack upwards. Harder finishing moves.

The hanging flake is hollow so belayers stand a little to the side.

Also done on trad gear for those so inclined.

FA: Matt Tranter, 30 Oct 2011

Left of Family Affair at left end of mini cave

Set by Simon Vaughan

FFA: Simon Vaughan

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

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