Hobo's Hangout




A selection of mainly moderate routes with easy access. Sheltered in the winter. Shade until midday in the summer.


Collection of routes scattered off the path betwenn Mittagong and the Hume Highway.

Access issues

From Lake Alexandra walk 15 minutes down the path to the left. Once in the valley floor look right up the hill and you will spot the cliffs. The large crack at the top of the incline is the centre of Dad's Crag.


20 metres before reaching Dad's Crag, hike uphill for 5 minutes just before the path rises from the valley floor.


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Grade Route

Middle of the crag and the area reached as you hike up the hill. The area one layer up are the UPPER Layer. Turn right for the RIGHT hand side. Left hand routes are described from right to left as you look at the rock and walk along the base of the crag.

First route to the left of the knotted rope leading to the upper layer.

FA: Matt T, 8 Sep 2012

Good climbing up to a dynamic finishing leap. 1m further left.

FA: Matt Tranter, 28 Sep 2012

Lots of long reaches, just as I like it! Start 2 metres down the hill from Desolation Row.

FA: Matt Tranter, 11 Aug 2012

Hard first move and then great pocket pulling to the top. Harder for the short. Start 5 meters down the hill past a small overhung cave.

FA: Matttranter, 21 Jul 2012

Start just to the right of the large zawn / cave system. Trend right up the ramp until forced left out on to the arete. Great jugs to the top

FFA: Matt Tranter, 30 Dec 2011

Solo / caving - could be trad protected. Enter the cave Zawn and thruch and dangle up towards the day light. At the mid way point you can either crawl through the tiny slit (if you are a five year old) or carry on up through the precariously perched boulders to the golden eagles nest. Exit with care and scramble back down past the upper level climbs.

Even better in the wet where the rain may lubricate the tubby.

FA: Thomas & Matt Tranter, 23 Sep 2016

Start in the cave. Back and foot up the chimney (if you are too young to know what that means then google it youth). Take care after the third bolt as it is run out, stay in the cave where it is nice and safe. Exit left with the grace of a goat or the flop of a whale to the anchor of Dole Bludgers.

Set by Matt Tranter

FFA: Matt Tranter, 28 Sep 2016

FA: 28 Sep 2016

Crimpy moves flowing nicely up the faint line of weakness. Start 2metres left of the narrow cave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 15 Sep 2016

5 metres to the right of New Years Edge. The route goes up directly under the small tree on the ledge at half height. Pull hard of the ground and balance, high step and wobble upwards.

Set by Matt Tranter, 10 Nov 2016

FFA: Matt Tranter, 11 Nov 2016

Up obvious shapely arete to LO's just below picnic ledge, awesome moves throughout 15 metres up hill from Happy Hogmanay Really beautiful moves get on it. Looks like grade 13 from the bottom

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 30 Dec 2011

Climbs starting one layer up. Access at the trail head and climb up past fixed sling/knotted rope to this level. Routes left to right.

Layback and stem up corner to surmount party ledge. Up superb face to LO. Start by scrambling up onto to ledge from the left to start below stout little corner 80 metres left of Millionaires Jeans Old style layback corner work to one punchy face move crux up high

FA: Simon Vaughan., 14 Jan 2012

Up to party ledge and move right through the gold Start as for ' 4000 ' Finger jugs through some pleasant steepness and perfect rock.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 28 Sep 2012

Start on the irresistible orange and ascend the over hanging ledges. Grope over the lip for the hold, swing into space, take the hero photo and pull with care onto the head wall.

Set by Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 2 Jul

Easily up scoops and trend right towards the arete, to big jugs at finish Start below grey headwall at bolts in the orange scoops

FA: Simon Vaughan, 11 Jan 2012

Back on Ground level and the trail head but turn right. The next three routes are 200 M up the valley (right) from the last routes. Orange Wall.

First line of bolts in the orange buttress. Pull over bulge. Choose your yellow flakes with care. Anchor bolts over the top ledge.

Set by Matt Tranter, Sep 2020

FA: Matt Tranter, 6 Sep

Pull up the layback crack and the go through the ledges. Great finishing hold to the right.

FA: Matt Tranter, 5 Feb 2013

10 metres right of the last climb on the same height as Millionaire. Climb straight up the gold to the juggy roof.

FA: Matt Tranter, Nov 2012


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