The Saddle Bouldering




The Font of The You Yangs?

Previously described as having great classic boulder problems, and as the Font of The You Yangs. The latter statement was definitely tongue in cheek, but was the former?

Bouldering may extend in to the Saddle South Side and North Side areas.

Access issues inherited from The You Yangs

January 2020 - Great Circle Drive is now open again.

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

Ethic inherited from The You Yangs

Mixed climbing with trad and some sports options, as well as bouldering. Bring hangar plates, as many climbs are equipped with carrot bolts.


History timeline chart

This area is noted in Goshen's Google Map of the area (April 2012). Ascent/route history is unknown; most lines have been done by various parties at some stage so best not to claim first ascents, but feel free to name or rename? routes!


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Grade Route

Small boulder next to road, easy stand-start

Direct Sit-start to the arete. You can do it both ways (L or R); both are worth doing if you like this kind of thing.

Start standing with matched hands on the right side of the arete. Move up the triangular arete, then mantel around the left.

FA details can be updated if known.

FA: Jamie, 2021

20m Uphill from the Font boulder is small arete.

Just uphill (On Contour) from the Font boulder is a short slab with a couple of good ones... This is straight up the middle; trickier than it looks.

Lower angled slab a couple of metres R.

The obvious hanging arete; standing start (careful rock is loose).

Sit start the arete. Hard. Aden from Geelong might have done the FA.

Been a while; but traverse the lip to join the hanging arete. Slightly contrived.

Hard slab; increasing with difficulty towards the top.

FA: Gregoire, 2007

Far easier; but tall slab L of Frenchy; Start just R of tree up against cliff; but beware, as you finish straight up above it.

This is the obvious boulder to locate, as it has about 8 or so problems, and is in a forest on a hillside.

Best problem here; although sit start is a bit bunched for some.

Start on Double Gaston Classic and reach right across into the first rail for High step to Glory and finish up that

Sit start just R of DG Classic. Up to rail; then up to 2nd rail to top out.

Ok; we're really stretching the route naming now. Please feel free to change! Stand start at 'jug' on the R; then straight up.

On the downhill side of the boulder; stand start to rail; then L up arete.

So-so slab on the L of the back of the 'Font' boulder. Trickier than it looks.

Stand start; mantle over the top.

Crimp to slanting juggy rail; then R to hidden letterbox.

Stand start; slap over the top and mantle out.

Groove on boulder directly uphill of the Font Boulder

Obvious flakes in the middle; should be ok; climb lightly.

AKA Razor's edge. Edges L of the nose; a couple of lines possible.

Seam on the nose of boulder. A good move or 3, it seamed ok.

This is downhill (on contour) from the main 2 boulders (Font Boulder). It contains some tall problems on the steep slabby front; and some extremely difficult projects on the back.

LH of the slab (Frontside) of the Project Boulder; starting about where the horizontal dyke meets the ground.

Classic diagonal seam. Highball. Pebbles are solid; but does not get easier towards the top.

FA: Goshen Watts, 25 May 2020

Enough said. You know what to do.

FA: Goshen Watts, May 2020

Hard start from edge on undercut nose. Make a few moves L; then straight up.


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