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The Saddle Bouldering All Bouldering 28 routes in boulder field

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 72
28
BLDV
V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5V7

Seasonality

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Description

The Font of The You Yangs?

Previously described as having great classic boulder problems, and as the Font of The You Yangs. The latter statement was definitely tongue in cheek, but was the former?

Bouldering may extend in to the Saddle South Side and North Side areas.

Access issues inherited from The You Yangs

January 2020 - Great Circle Drive is now open again.

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

Ethic inherited from The You Yangs

Mixed climbing with trad and some sports options, as well as bouldering. Bring hangar plates, as many climbs are equipped with carrot bolts.

History

History timeline chart

This area is noted in Goshen's Google Map of the area (April 2012). Ascent/route history is unknown; most lines have been done by various parties at some stage so best not to claim first ascents, but feel free to name or rename? routes!

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route
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1
V0 Arete V0 Boulder

Small boulder next to road, easy stand-start

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2
V3 ★ Awkward Mantle Boulder

Direct Sit-start to the arete. You can do it both ways (L or R); both are worth doing if you like this kind of thing.

3
V0 SB1 Boulder 3m

Right side of the arete. From a stand with two hands matched on the right arete, move up the triangular arete and mantel around the left.

FA details can be updated if known.

FA: Jamie Ung, 2021

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4
V0 Jeff's Mantle Boulder

20m Uphill from the Font boulder is small arete.

5
V3 Slab One Boulder

Just uphill (On Contour) from the Font boulder is a short slab with a couple of good ones... This is straight up the middle; trickier than it looks.

6
V1 Slab Two Boulder

Lower angled slab a couple of metres R.

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7
V6 ★ Hanging Arete Boulder

The obvious hanging arete; standing start (careful rock is loose).

8
V8 Hanging Arete Direct Boulder

Sit start the arete. Hard. Aden from Geelong might have done the FA.

9
V5 Lip Traverse Boulder

Been a while; but traverse the lip to join the hanging arete. Slightly contrived.

10
V7 Frenchy Slab Boulder

Hard slab; increasing with difficulty towards the top.

FA: Gregoire, 2007

11
V2 ★ Sidekick Boulder

Far easier; but tall slab L of Frenchy; Start just R of tree up against cliff; but beware, as you finish straight up above it.

Font Boulder Back to contents

This is the obvious boulder to locate, as it has about 8 or so problems, and is in a forest on a hillside.

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13
V5 ★★ Double Gaston Classic Boulder

Best problem here; although sit start is a bit bunched for some.

14
V5 ★ Double Gaston to Morning Glory Boulder

Start on Double Gaston Classic and reach right across into the first rail for High step to Glory and finish up that

15
V6 ★ High Step to Glory Boulder

Sit start just R of DG Classic. Up to rail; then up to 2nd rail to top out.

16
V3 Jump It Boulder

Ok; we're really stretching the route naming now. Please feel free to change! Stand start at 'jug' on the R; then straight up.

17
V4 ★ Sneaky Slant Boulder

On the downhill side of the boulder; stand start to rail; then L up arete.

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18
V3 Backside Slab Boulder

So-so slab on the L of the back of the 'Font' boulder. Trickier than it looks.

19
V2 ★ Rail mantle Boulder

Stand start; mantle over the top.

20
V2 Letterbox Boulder

Crimp to slanting juggy rail; then R to hidden letterbox.

21
V3 Arete Slap n Tickle Boulder

Stand start; slap over the top and mantle out.

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22
V2 ★ Groovy Boulder

Groove on boulder directly uphill of the Font Boulder

23
V2 Hollow Boulder Boulder

Obvious flakes in the middle; should be ok; climb lightly.

24
V1 Soft Edges Boulder

AKA Razor's edge. Edges L of the nose; a couple of lines possible.

25
V3 Seamed Boulder

Seam on the nose of boulder. A good move or 3, it seamed ok.

Project Boulder Back to contents

This is downhill (on contour) from the main 2 boulders (Font Boulder). It contains some tall problems on the steep slabby front; and some extremely difficult projects on the back.

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27
V2 LH Face Boulder

LH of the slab (Frontside) of the Project Boulder; starting about where the horizontal dyke meets the ground.

28
V5 ★★★ Lumpy Seam Boulder

Classic diagonal seam. Highball. Pebbles are solid; but does not get easier towards the top.

FA: Goshen Watts, 25 May 2020

29
V3 ★★ Bergschrund Boulder

Enough said. You know what to do.

FA: Goshen Watts, May 2020

30
V4 Leading Edges Boulder

Hard start from edge on undercut nose. Make a few moves L; then straight up.

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