A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Douglas
31 in Crag
- 1.1. Lazy Afternoon Wall 16 in Crag
- 1.2. Douglas Boulder 5 in Boulder
- 1.3. Vivacious area 10 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Douglas 31 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: -19.332823, 146.742561
- Stick to the trail where possible; do not take shortcuts as this causes erosion and track braiding.
- Do not walk on the downhill trails; see signage.
- Give way to mountain bikers.
- Do not litter.
- No camping.
- No fires
summary
Not the best rock.
description
These areas are close and easy to access but the rock isn't the best quality.
access issues
Douglas Mountain Bike Reserve is public land.
approach
This area at the foothills of Mt Stuart. Take the motorway to the Douglas Mountain Bike Reserve.
ethic
history
First known to have be climbed in late 1998 at Lazy Afternoon Wall. Later, Vivacious area and the Douglas Boulder were climbed and developed in 2018.
1.1. Lazy Afternoon Wall 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles
Lat / Long: -19.336080, 146.736570
- Rock can be sharp use rope protectors where possible!
- Take all rubbish home with you
- Give way to bikers (and know which trails you are not allowed to walk on)
- Be aware of and respect any wildlife. snakes, kangaroos, birds, ect..
summary
Very different type of rock for Townsville solid & bubbly with lots of pockets.
description
A smaller crag surrounded by mountain bike trails. Shady from about 1:30pm and above the tree line so there is a nice breeze. Lots of smaller boulders around as well as a small overhang at the bottom of the wall to warm up on.
There are a handful of beginner-moderate routes, most of which are quite nice. Perfect for a lazy afternoons climbing, or for Uni students.
access issues
Public land, no access issues.
approach
Follow "Angus Smith drive" until you reach either the mountain biking car park and follow trails to the crag on the hill to your right. Or continue along the road until you come to a gate, park well away from gate and follow dirt path up the hill on the left side of the road. The wall is located almost directly under a large metal electricity tower a easy landmark to follow.
where to stay
NO CAMPING
ethic
history
In early 1997, Matt Russell and Lee Skidmore walked up to the wall to check out climbing possibilities, but with no bolting gear available and the all-natural routes looking too easy, the area was put aside for later. It took until late 1998 for Lee to return to the area with a drill and cleaning gear.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Main Wall | ||||||||
| 2 |
Seista
Found on far left side of crag when facing the wall. Poxy as, start in crack move up to top out. | 10 | 8m | |||||
| 3 |
Doze
Starting just R of Seista, straight up to cave and trend R and up. FFA: Luen Warneke, 22 Feb 2019 | 10 | 9m | |||||
| 4 |
Dreamer
Starting just left of Binocular Pocket, make your way up the small crack to the ledge just above the first bolt of Binocular Pocket. Traverse ledge right using pockets as hand holds, clipping Small Wonder 's second bolt and continue past Nasty But Nourishing (below the bolt - can reach up and clip if you're tall enough) and then up on the left of Stinkbug. FFA: Luen Warneke, 22 Aug 2018 | 12 | 12m, 3 | |||||
| 5 |
Binocular Pocket
Starts on the small boulder. Straight up flaky face with small holds to a hangerless bolt. Continue up featured face staying to the right of small orange caves. Place a crucial #10 hex into another pocket (up and L). A big reach for small pockets and up slab to the "binocular pocket" (#6 hex), then easy slab to top. Anchors for top roping can be set up. FFA: Lee Skidmore, Philippa Newton & Steve Baskerville, 1998 | 13 | 11m, 1 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Triple Connection
Start at "Binocular Pocket". Move up and diagonally right past the first hangerless bolt of BP, continuing diagonally up right though to hangerless bolt of SW, keep moving right to clip fixed hanger bolt of NBN when at chest height. Stay left of the bolt and move through bulge (crux) to run-out but easy finish on slab. FFA: Lee Skidmore, Jason Shaw & Steve Baskerville, 1998 | 17 | 16m, 3 | |||||
| 7 |
Small Wonder
Starts 2m right of "Binocular Pocket". Climb up past a hangerless bolts (missing it's nut) to horizontal break. Then up past pocket and second hangerless bolt then slightly left through bulge with optional #2.5 SLCD. Finish on run-out but easy slab. Anchors for top roping can be set up. FFA: Lee Skidmore, Philippa Newton & Steve Baskerville, 1998 | 14 | 12m, 2 | |||||
| 8 |
Small Wonder Direct Start
The thin mantel move between the boulders then finish on "Small Wonder". FFA: Steve Baskerville, 1998 | 14 | 13m, 2 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 |
Nasty But Nourishing
Starts 2m right of "Small Wonder". Climb up short corner crack (medium-size cam) to ledge and corner to break then straight up to big pocket (large cam). Undercling and up staying right of the fixed hanger, traverse up lip of large cave a few moves then over lip of cave (crux) into large corner. Finish on run-out but easy slab. Anchors for top roping can be set up. FA: FFA: Lee Skidmore, 1998 | 21 | 13m, 1 | |||||
| 10 |
Nasty But Alimentative
Open project. | 13m | ||||||
| 11 |
Stinkbug
Up flake in centre to vegetated ledge then up short overhung crack on yellow rock. (Can be top roped off tree behind climb) FA: Stuart Anderson, 2009 | 11 | 12m | |||||
| 12 |
★ Idle Apathy
2m right of "Sinkbug" up corner to ledge under orange pillar (trad pro) move right to pillar arete, clip hangerless bolt, then up pillar (crux) to finish. Easy tree belay. Bolt is missing nut. #missingbolt FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998 FFA: Jason Shaw & Steve Baskerville, 1998 | 17 | 13m, 1 | |||||
Main Wall BoulderingThere is an undercut bouldering area with a couple of steepo problems. | ||||||||
| 14 |
V2 Sit Start
Sit start on steep wall below "Triple Connection". | V2 | 2m | |||||
 /8c/50/8c5053abd02416c315039e7c8b7e0a1142302db4)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Upper Wall | ||||||||
| 16 |
★★ baby snake
FA: Jack Preedy | 10 | 5m | |||||
| 17 |
★★ snake pit
a risky boulder/ free solo. good crimps but can get overstretched. possible to top rope but wouldn't be worth the time then. a fun free solo in my opinion. FA: Jack Preedy, 7 Dec 2019 | 14 | 6m | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Taipans nest
Fun short climb located directly behind/west of the main lazy wall anchor bolts. Can attach a top rope anchor around the large boulder at the top. Start from the prominent jug just before the diagonal crack then work a heel hook up into the crack, there is a pinch in the small “cave” but it’s quiet a squeeze as there is a lack of good holds (very crimpy but sharp). Also the crux. From here it’s a easy climb to the top. FA: Jack Preedy, 7 Dec 2019 | 16 | 8m | |||||
| 19 |
slaby snake
yet to be climbed. 3m to the right of Nest and straight up the slab. | 17 | 9m | |||||
1.2. Douglas Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.336233, 146.739135
description
Public land, no access issues. Stick the the tracks where possible and do not take shortcuts as that causes erosion and braiding. Give way to mountian bikers.
approach
From "Lazy Afternoon Wall", walk down Taipan (DH) or up Easy Street from the car park.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Up The Backside
Sit start. Watch out for the chossy mid section - avoid by trending left slightly. FA: Chris Beric, 10 Oct 2018 | V0+ | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
★ White Tipped Sit Start
Sit start. The hollow under the rock makes it hard to get footholds. FA: Luen Warneke, 10 Oct 2018 | V0+ | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
White Tipped Stand Start
Stand start. FA: Jodie Rummer, 10 Oct 2018 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
Sexy Shark
Sit start. Layback start on the two obvious holds under the overhang. FA: Chris Beric, 10 Oct 2018 | V0+ | 4m | |||||
| 5 |
Easy Street
Starting on crimps, throw for jug and mantle. FA: Luen Warneke, 13 Oct 2018 | V0 | 2m | |||||
1.3. Vivacious area 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: -19.337357, 146.739914
summary
Chossy rock but it does clean up. Best for after work - evenings and nights.
description
You'll have to be rather adventurous to climb here, the benefit is that it's close to home. It's a short 15 minute hike up to the area where the climbs are scattered throughout the hillside. Best to climb here in the very early morning or in the late afternoon and night.
approach
Park at the Douglas Mountain Bike Reserve car park or continue along the road until you come to a gated dirt road on your left. Park well away from defence gate and follow dirt road on the left up the hill to the HV powerline. From here, continue up the mountain bike trails (Taipan or the unnamed DH track that joins into Spiderbait).
history
First climbed in 2018 by Luen and Jodie - very chossy.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Area 1 | ||||||||
| 2 |
Chossgate Variant
Open project. Follow the crack line up and around R to a loose, bouldery and slightly overhung finish. Don't pike R onto slab early. | 19 | 12m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Chossgate
Up the obvious crack, traversing R at the top and finishing around the corner. Rock belay. FFA: Glen Hayford & Luen Warneke, 15 Nov 2018 | 18 | 14m | |||||
Area 2 | ||||||||
| 5 |
Dechossify
Up the face then up arete then move R to ledge and DBB. Run out, chossy, and potential ground falls. Needs a couple of extra bolts. Loose block at start. FA: Jodie Rummer & Luen Warneke, 18 Jan 2019 FFA: Jodie Rummer & Luen Warneke, 2 Apr 2019 | 18 R | 9m, 3 | |||||
| 6 |
Toechoss
Up the face, following a weakness up L to clip the last FH of Dechossify and then up to DBB. Run out, chossy, and potential ground falls. Needs a couple of extra bolts. FA: Luen Warneke & Jodie Rummer, 18 Jan 2019 FFA: Luen Warneke, 6 Apr 2019 | 19 R | 9m, 3 | |||||
Area 3 | ||||||||
| 8 |
★ Chosscrop
Starting at the base of the large outcrop, climb straight up the chimney to the arete then through the crimpy, boulderly mid-section and onto easier ground. DBB. FA: Luen Warneke, 31 Jul 2019 | 22 | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 9 |
Chosscrop VS
Start up slab as per Viva La Choss. Then up between the two bolted climbs. Join into Chosscrop at the mantel and up to DBB. FA: Luen Warneke, 31 Jul 2019 | 19 | 10m | |||||
| 10 |
Viva La Choss
Starting at the base of the large outcrop, climb up to ledge and easy slab to the first FH. Up steeper ground pasting another two FHs before trending L to DBB. FFA: Jodie Rummer, Sean Sullivan & Luen Warneke, 24 Jul 2019 | 17 | 10m, 3 | |||||
| 11 |
Chossable
Up the face and crack with some surprisingly nice moves. Chossy. FFA: Luen Warneke, 27 Nov 2018 | 12 | 8m | |||||
Area 4 | ||||||||
| 13 |
Cheesychoss
Open project. Up face (2 x Coeur Pulse) and step R onto slab (1 x Coeur Pulse). Up slab to DBB (2 x Coeur Pulse). Requires 5 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm | 19 | 6m, 3 | |||||
Area 5 | ||||||||
| 15 |
Sweetchoss
Open project. Up face (2 x Coeur Pulse), over bulge (1 x Coeur Pulse) to DBB (2 x Coeur Pulse). Requires 5 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm | 8m, 3 | ||||||
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