The Lower Playground is within army land, enter at your own risk.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Visiting climbers are advised that a significant proportion of the cliffs lie in Department of Defence (Army) land. Trespassing on defence land is an offense. The Townsville City Council (TCC) controlled cliffs require a permit for climbing and/or abseiling. Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed. Mark Gommers is negotiating with the TCC to remove certain onerous restrictions such as a permit and indemnity insurance.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

Installation of permanent anchors (eg bolts) is not permitted on City Council land or Department of Defence (Army) land. Take all rubbish with you. - Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you.



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Grade Route
1 19m
2 19 26m

This route is easiest rapped into. Keep abseiling past the ledge the other routes start from for about 10m, then walk L to the toe of a narrow, light coloured buttress with a crack at its base. Or walk down The Pinnacle track until the first wall on The Pinnacle (about 10m high and overhanging, R of the top of Physical Meditation), go down about 10m then contour L (facing downhill)

  1. 19m Up the blunt arete, runout, then L to the crack and up.

  2. 26m (19 crux) Up the interesting face with a bolt (#1 RP handy as 1st runner), follow the blocky ridgeline and over the split boulder.

FA: Mark Gommers & Ross Anderson, 1994

The overhanging finger crack around the corner from Trespass P2 at the L end of the ledge and L of the descent gully.

FA: Mark Gommers & Peter Kingsbury, 1994

Varied climbing and you can avoid getting wedged in the wide section by using face hold.

FA: Raymond Stuart, 1993

Straight up the perfect vertical finger crack to large ledge then move left and up arette to top. (Bridge from crack to the arette without climbing onto the large ledge for a slightly harder climb)

FFA: Andrew Doubleday, 1994

Starts at the Brett Pybus memorial plaque, 5m down L from L. Brett died before he could complete this route, they played this song at his funeral. Up the corner taking care with the gear. Clip the bolt by climbing up then leaning across then come back down to the ledge. Step R onto the face and up the fragile feeling flakes past another FH.

FA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Kinbacher, 1996

Apparently worthwhile and solid for the grade. Around the arete from KOHD and 2m L of the major corner. Take the crack to the V groove and the crux. Watch for loose blocks at the top.

FA: Mark Wright, 1993

The overhanging hand crack 1m R of SH.

FA: Alan Simet, 1994

Directly below Avalon is a disappearing crack which leads to a ledge at 25m, a cruxy face and scrub bash out.

FA: Rob Smythe & Paul Hayford, 1986

Start at the bolt R of 'Lost in the Land of Grimm'. Up the slab passing another bolt below a short vertical section with a thin crack running up the L. Continue through the crux.

Use slings to avoid rope drag in the top section.

FA: Rik Wittkopp, Craig Matthews & Adam Haddon, 2002

1 12
2 10

Climb is easily visible from The Pinnacle opposite.

  1. (12) Follow system of thin cracks to ledge below wide chimney.

  2. (10) Up chimney/wide crack.

Often done as one pitch.

FA: Lee Anice & Lorna Hepburn, 1995

FA: Bob Miller & Rik Wittkop

Deviates from 'Take two girls' at the V-groove. Instead of traversing R, straight up the obvious crack line. All natural protection. Lots of small wires through upper section.

Starting up TTG would make a great single pitch of 38m if you could avoid rope drag.

FA: Rik Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2001

FFA: Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 2002

1 14
2 17
  1. (14) Crack to ledge

  2. (17) Out right then up and diagonally right across thin holds. Good protection.

FA: Lee Anice & Lorna Hepburn, 1995

1 18 20m
2 23 18m

Starts R of the fig roots under a small orange section of face.

  1. 20m 18. Up the mixed face to a small bulge (3 FH's) & over to a slab with scattered RP placements (easy climbing). Continue on to DBB on the R of the horizontal break.

  2. 18m 22/23. Technical face climbing. Keep in contact with the fused seam which opens up occasionally for finger &/or gear. Veer slightly R for the cruxy exit. 3 FH's & lots of small wires.

FA: Rik Wittkopp, Nathan Walmsley & Adam Hardaker, 2001

A technical, steep face with a long crux.

Start at 'Siege The Moment' and follow to the small cave. Step L to FH gain the steep orange face to a small fig tree. Up through the crux (without using the tree) to finish the top section of 'Take Two Girls'. Continue through the V-groove behind another tree and mantle to gain belay ledge.

FA: Rik Wittkopp & Nathan Walmsley, 2002

Great climbing on an ugly face. Sustained & a bit run-out. Starts at 'Cute', but work left to the jugs & FH's until you come to a hidden cave. Traverse R around a blunt arete & follow the crack to the bulging roof. A big step L followed by technical moves takes you to a hands free rest & lots of small wires. Straight up to finish. 3FH's, small wires, & a rack of cams.

FA: Jon Elig, Rik Wittkopp & Nathan Walmsley, 2002


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