The Pinnacle Mostly Trad climbing 39 routes in cliff

Go R (facing out) at the base of the gully across a narrow causeway for about 15m to the base of a large green wall. Up crack to the base of the orange corner. Up the crack to the base of the orange corner. Up this (FH) to below rooflet then swing L onto face (FH). Face, trending L and passing another FH to the ledge. Finish up face and arete (FH).

Situated 10m L of "State Of Love & Trust" (Gallery Cliff) but best accessed by scrambling 20m down the steep, seaward-facing gully on The Pinnacle saddle to the base of the route (on L wall of gully). Natural pro to start, then up wall (2 FH's) to beneath overhang. Through this to the L (FH) and up final wall (FH) to top.

p1. Another sustained climb on excellent rock. Start 3m L of PM below a ledge and large scoop. Climb up and L, following the line of bolts to the crux. Pull up R, then hard L to a big fin and then to the chains. p2. Straight up from the anchor to the summit. Fully bolted since December 2021

Superb sustained climbing up a beautiful line. Scotts finest hour. Starts 2m R of MC, 5 carrots (fully threaded and overdriven) to natural gear. Take a wire to clip the 2nd bolt if your short. It's about a 21 to the FH and the route gets morning shade.

The cracked corner on The Pinnacle visible from the Playground. More of an epic strain than a climb. Follow the crack on greasy rock into a cave (beware loose rock) and out the other side to exit.

Well protected and sustained. Start by scrambling (roped) L from below PMs start to a 2 bolt belay on a tiny ledge on the arete, or do The Monsoon. Step L from the belay then up the face passing 8FHs and optional cams near the top. Still awaits the connection to the Monsoon to make a super sustained 50m pitch.

Starts at the crack in the shallow chimney, 2m R of the NW arête (L of TENE) - the next one past the offwidth. Take the crack to the FH then Traverse R to TENEs belay.

This is fantastic & full of adventure! The second pitch provides the best climbing. Starts in the obvious corner a few metres L and downhill from TM.

1. (18) Up the corner at the arete to a small ledge and DBB

2. (22) Exit the corner R and straight up past FHs, veering L for a rest then take the arete all the way to the ledge.

3. (20) Straight up the wall above with 3 carrots.

Excellent varied climbing up the E (seaward) face of The Pinnacle. Mark Gommers removed a thorn tree from this after it split a rope. Star a few m L of RTS.

1. The face past a carrot to the diagonal crackline L. Follow the crackline and then R to a thin seam. Up this to the overhang, clip the bolt above and traverse 2m R. Straight up the wall past 3 more carrots.

2. As for RTS.

Rap off the chains at top of The Pinnacle down to tree about 20m down where the semi-hanging anchor is. Pull the rope and follow the bolts to end up on big ledge on the left and follow through the cave to an opening. Sling a boulder to make a belay. If you don't like run outs this top part probably isn't for you can feel very exposed. Originally meant to go straight up the face and back to chains but Mark ran out of bolts.

Powerfully sustained up a threatening line. The bottomless hand crack 3m L of the deep chimney in the corner L of M. Starts on the L arete of the chimney. Up this, L onto the face past 3FHs and up the stepped crackline. DRB at the top.

This route gets morning tree shade. Great crack climbing 2m L CTGPB. Climb to DBB on ledge then rap off to avoid mass off loose boulders above. Bring tapes or finish up WO.

Intimidating. A fine climb with a thoughtful and sequency crux. Climb up the crack to the first roof, which is ascended on the R and continue up through the second and third roofs to the chains.

2 pitches of intimidating climbing, all natural except for 1 FH.

1. 22m 22. Starts 2m R of "Step Lightly" up the easy crack to an off-width chimney (FH) which leads to a small cave with a big roof (crux). struggle through roof & up another chimney to belay ledge (try not to throw up on belayer in process).

2. 18m 18. up obvious crack, then step L & follow seam up thin face enjoying the multitude of small wire placements. a small cam is nice for the top-out.

A flaky arête about 22m L of M. Requires a gentle touch.

1. 30m 23. Start just L of arete and enjoy long and interesting climbing past 8 BRs to a DBB. Switches to R side of the arete after 8th BR.

2. 10m 16. More of the same past 2 BRs.

The 2nd pitch involves some nice climbing on a heavily featured face.

1. 20m 18 Start 6m L of SL. Climb the crack with plenty of gear through the small horizontal break with the Chockstone's and up to the large horizontal break. Traverse 2m R to a sloping ledge and the chains. The crack may contain dirt and sand.

2. 20m 23 Climb the steep face past 7FHs. Avoid the slopers and find the positive edges until a good pocket provides a rest. There is a DBB back from the edge and chains up to the L. The chains direct he abseil into a big tree.

Starting at the anchors of Divine Balance. Climbs the obvious hanging arete L of DB. Tricky moves to start followed by sustained climbing up the arete passing 5 FHs, take small wires for the top out.

First pitch originally known as "Mouth Full Of Dirt" by M Retallick and A Rule. Starts at the obvious crack 2m right of NSG.

1. 10m 18 Up the steep and tricky crack to the ledge and belay chains.

2. 30m 21 Climb the technical face. A hard pull around the bulge to easier ground. Several FHs and some natural pro.

As good as "Tannin" - 35m of continuous varied climbing. All natural gear to one carrot at the top. An easier variant to SR. Start as for SR. Climb SR up the wide flake-crack to the roof. Exit roof to L and continue up the crack L of the blank corner. When the crack ends, move R and finish as for SR.

A classy variant of NSG. Starts 20m L of SL. Take it to the roof and the groove then move R onto the ledge above the roof. Up the clean thin corner joining NSG near the top. 1 BR near the top.

An interesting start then....no fun. Starts 2m R of the arete at the end of the wall. Up R to gain the arete at the end of the wall. Up and R to gain the arete and continue up the widening crack past 3FHs to the ledge and large tree. You can rap as for NSG.